Southern Fried French

Hit and Miss: French Grocery Stores Go Anglo

You know how in American supermarkets, there is usually an isle that has foreign or ethnic stuff:  Mexican, Chinese, Thai, etc.?  Well in France they have the same thing—and on the ‘international food isle’, they have an American section!  Who knew?  For some reason this tickles me, and also makes me realize how truly far we are from Charleston.

So, what’s in the ‘American section’?  Can you guess?  Some of the things the French just don’t eat or understand, though not many I really would like to have (those would be grits, corn meal, black beans, chicken broth, buttermilk...).  Also they throw the UK must-haves on the same shelves, like the dreaded Marmite and Brown Sauce. 

Here, for your reading pleasure, are a few of the curious American selections at my local store:

• Peanut butter
• Pecans (they call them noix Américains)
• A1 Steak sauce, and worcestershire sauce
• Cranberry juice 
• Dr. Pepper (!? I am speechless here)
• Cans of of those American casserole staples, cream of  mushroom and cream of chicken soup 
• Canned ‘spaghetti loops’
• Bottles of Thousand Island dressing

And my favorite:  A box of sage stuffing mix (the French don’t do bread stuffing) in a skinny 2 oz. box, which says on the package “enough for one whole bird.”  Stuffed baby quail, anyone?

One hopes the French do not see this selection as representative of American cuisine. 

Then again, I may have to widen my search for my beloved American items.  At the same store just this week I discovered one more 'international' product, Vermont Real Maple Syrup. It was in the Chinese section.

 

Recipe: A Week-night Gratin, Deconstructed

So, shall we make a casserole the French way, and skip the Campbells?  In France a casserole baked with a topping, like bread crumbs and/or cheese, is called a gratin. We southern cooks don't much go in for canned soup casseroles, so when I have the time I make a lovely béchamel sauce for a gratin.  But on a busy weeknight, who has the time?  So here is a gratin, deconstructed, that you can whip up, maybe with what you have on hand.  Those who follow recipes religiously and like precise measurements may not feel at home with this one.  This is for your creative side (translation: time to clean out the frige).

Three Parts:  Sauce, Filling, Topping.

A simple sauce, trés vite:  In France I use crème fraiche, which is a milder, slightly thinner version of sour cream.  Use this for your sauce, or sour cream thinned with milk so that it's more liquid but still heavier than whipping cream. You could stir in a bit of mayonnaise or soft cream cheese.  To give it more body, you may want to add a beaten egg. Mix it up with salt and pepper, and flavor it if you like with a splash of brandy, some spices, a spoonful of mustard, hot sauce, or chives.  

The filling:  Use  cooked vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, squash, chopped asparagus, and so on, for vegetable gratins.  You can mix in cooked pasta (very al dente), rice, or grains.  To ramp up the flavor, sauté some aromatics---onions, garlic, shallots, celery, mushrooms--in olive oil or butter and mix them in. Roasted tomatoes or leftover cooked carrots can be popped in too, for example.  Of course you can add chopped cooked meat like chicken, ham, sausage, bacon, etc.   Stir in some grated, melty cheese, or not. 

The topping:  Use crushed crackers, bread crumbs, croutons, nuts, crushed chips, or a combination of these.  Grated cheese is optional.  My favorite crunchy topping: I save stale or leftover bread, then make bread crumbs in the blender.  I sauté these in  butter (about 3 tablespoons butter per cup of crumbs), plus sea salt and pepper, and throw them in a bag in the freezer.  I use them to top gratins but also for pasta dishes or just to dress up steamed vegetables.  

Now just bake your creation for half an hour or so, until it's bubbly hot, and you're done. Bon appetit, y'all!

Favorite Reads:  Mon Dieu, a Southern Fried French first:  A BOOK GIVEAWAY!  Kristin Espinasse of the French Word a Day blog has most graciously given us four copies of her new book, Blossoming in Provence. I've been traveling through my copy this week--it's like living the good life in Provence, through Kristin's eyes. Kristin, an American who lives with her French husband and two French kids, has a way of drawing you into her family life and her world, with her lovely insights and photos.  To enter, just leave a comment that mentions the book, or with a heads-up that you want to enter.  We'll send winners an email to get a mailing address. With apologies to our international readers: the gift books can only be shipped to the states, but maybe you've got a friend or family member there who might like a copy? Leave a comment this week or next, then we'll randomly pick four winners.

And by the way, if you missed her first book, you may want to start at the beginning, with her lovely Words in a French Life: Lessons in Love and Language from the South of France. 

Our Reader's Blogs: It seems the perfect time to mention Anne-Clair's My American Market, where expats can order American ingredients they don't find on that international isle.  There is a great expat newsletter on the site, too.

Coming to BURGUNDY?  You could stay at the château!  Nicole and Pierre now have a couple of rooms they rent out to visitors.  Nicole will provide French lessons, too, if you're interested.  Check out the website for Château de Balleure:  Les Saveurs du Château.

Your Perfect Fantasy of a Provençal Bistro

If you’re like me, when you fantasize about the south of France, you’ve got a little idealized picture of the perfect spot to lunch and to languish away an afternoon.  You want it sunny and bright but cozy, set in a pretty village.  You picture it as colorful, stylish in that offhand French way, but not too chi-chi or modern.   With memorable food of course, traditional but fresh, and not too high of a price tag.  Well you don’t ask much, do you? 

Restaurants that live up to the dream are few and far between, but when they do, we remember them and revisit them.   And one of our favorites, located in the pretty wine village of Châteuneuf-du-Pape, has always been La Mère Germaine (pictured above, and below right). 

Sadly it closed a couple of years ago, but we were in the neighborhood last month, looking for lunch, and I just happened to read on Twitter that very morning (what are the odds?) that it had reopened.  So off we went to check out the new management.  

Quelle Surprise!  it was even better.  The new folks were friendly and attentive.  They had fluffed up the decor in the nicest way.  The food was excellent and there is still the surprise of that sunny terrace hidden away at the back, with a view of the valley. 

What to do after lunch?  Well there are about a zillion little wine caves to visit, for tastings. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is in the Côtes du Rhône wine area, is famous for their reds, mostly made from grenache grapes. There are some nice boutiques, too, and a château on top of the hill to hike up to and work off des poids.  Your Provençal dream has come true.

 

RECIPE:  Roasted Spiced Pears with Pecans

A pretty way to serve pears, inspired by our dessert at La Mère Germain. Healthy, too (well sort of).  I wouldn’t begin to attempt that froup-de-doo on top, but if you can do it, go for it!

• 3 tablespoons (45 gr) butter
• 1/3 cup brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon nutmeg
• ¼ teaspoon dried ginger
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 4 firm-ripe pears, peeled and cut into thick slices 
• ½ cup roasted pecans, finely chopped
• whipped cream (or crème fraiche or ice cream)

Heat oven to 450 F (220 C).  Mix sugar, butter, and spices in a  large saucepan and heat to a simmer, stirring, until butter is melted and sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla.  Add pears and toss well.  Place in a baking dish and roast 15-20 minutes, just until pears are tender.  Divide among 6 bowls or glasses.  Sprinkle with pecans, saving some for garnish.  Top with whipped cream and garnish with remaining nuts. Serve it hot or cold.  

Favorite Reads:  I’m not at my French desk today, I'm reporting to your from the states.  So from the South Carolina Bureau, here are some random happy reads, some authors that are old favorites (and I’d LOVE to hear some of yours).  

I’m a sucker for English novels, and my favorite, for that dry English humor, is Barbara Pym. I’m not a big mystery reader, but when I’m in a mystery mood I love Elizabeth George , an American who writes English murder mysteries, go figure. While we're talking about England, fans  can now pre-order  Downton Abbey Season 2  on DVD (to be released 2/7) to check out the latest scandals and trysts. In Europe, we saw it all this past fall. (I hope they will show you the final installment, the 2-hour Christmas special, in which something actually works OUT for these people). Finally one other mystery writer I love is Tony Hillerman, who offers up an education on American Indian culture along with a good story.

In the Comments:  Libby, I do love peeking through those Paris gates into the courtyards.  Derin, hope you'll do that book soon, sounds super.

Our Reader's Blogs: I've talked about The Daily Basics before, my favorite blog by fellow Better Homes and Gardens editor Cynthia Bogart.  Now she's really wamped it up into a full-fledged magazine, the best on the web!  The debut was this week, and it's free to subscribe.  I'm ever so pleased to be joining the site as a contributor.  Y'all might want to catch my design article about doing closets and doors the chic French way, "A French Door of a Different Kind".

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved. 

 

A Peek Inside A French Door

We’re on vacation this week, back in the states.  So something quick and fun today:  A collection of French doors.  From Paris to Provence, in Burgundy and beyond, these French doors tell a story of history, tradition, and sometimes more.

 

Favorite Reads:  First up, on the plane I read Karen Chase's  Bonjour 40: A Paris Travel Log, which if you are a Paris-ophile you will want to get immediately, for your Kindle, ipad or iphone.  Karen spent 40 days in Paris for her 40th birthday, and she describes her adventures with all the passion Paris has to offer.  You may want to take her Paris journey yourself. Then visit Andra Paddio's site to check out her fun book, What Makes France so French. 

In the Comments:  The chestnut story evoked some Christmas memories, and a French memory for Nancy, who ate them many ways in Nimes.  Mel, chestnut beer is a new one on me, must go to Corsica to try it. Mark, Husk is on our list for Charleston, we'll see if it's in the budget!  Thanks, as always, for the lovely comments.

Our Reader's Blogs:  Get involved, with a unique site called Earth2. Their motto:  "Change the World Before Bedtime".

To my Dear Readers:  I want to invite anyone who hasn't done so to SUBSCRIBE to Southern Fried French.  You'll get one weekly email with a quick summary of the post, and the link.  Just enter your email address, top right corner.  And y'all keep in touch!

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved.

 

 

Foods that Refuse to Jump the Pond

It’s a puzzle:  in this smaller and smaller world, some foods and food trends  easily leap over the pond, and some don’t.  Pourquoi?  

Since the holidays in France stay in full swing until Twelfth Night, we’ll talk about two Christmas foods we’ve mentioned recently that haven’t made the jump.  One is eggnog.  English in origin, it’s popular in the states but rarely found in France.  And in the US, at least in the South, you’ll have about as much trouble finding chestnuts (les châtaignes or les marrons), as you will eggnog here in France.  “Chestnuts roasting on an open fire”, where I come from, is just a line in a song.

Few French Christmas tables are without some sort of chestnuts at Christmas.  Roasted chestnuts are common street food in Europe in winter, the smoky aroma of the sweet toasted nuts wafting through the Christmas festivals.  Marrons glacées, candied chestnuts, are a French holiday staple. This flavor even shows up in ice cream, in the summer.

The early Romans planted chestnut trees across Europe as they mounted their campaigns. As a result, France and Italy are both big producers.  Early on, they were a food source in America too.  But the reason for their lack of popularity there may be simply this:  a terrible chestnut blight in the 1900’s wiped out most of the trees.  Most US chestnuts are now imported.

For the holiday table, chestnuts, which have a soft potato-esque texture when roasted, are sometimes made into a purée.  For our feast at the château this year, our Dutch friend Maria made a chestnut soup that was so good it inspired this week’s post.  Her secret: since chestnuts have a sweet flavor, Maria added onions, leeks, and white wine to give it a bit of tang.  It’s delicious and different, for the holidays and beyond!

 

RECIPE:  Maria’s Chestnut Soup

• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 large leek
• 1 stalk celery, chopped
• olive oil, butter
• 1 16 oz. can (400 gr) chestnuts (drained if in liquid)
• 6 cups chicken or vegetable broth
• 2 cups white wine
• juice of half a lemon, or to taste
• salt and pepper

Garnish:

• sour cream, creme fraiche or heavy cream
• chopped hebs:  parsley, chives, or scallions

Cut off root and most of the green part of leek, slice thinly, and immerse in water to wash. In a Dutch oven sauté onions, celery and leeks in a little olive oil and butter just until tender.  Add broth, wine, and salt and pepper to taste.  Add chesnuts, bring to boil and simmer for another 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and cool it down a bit if you have time.

Purée soup with an  Immersion Blender (what, you don’t have one of these yet?  They’re the BEST!). Add more broth or wine (or milk or water) as needed, if too thick. Stir in lemon juice, adjust seasonings. Re-heat when ready to serve and garnish with  cream and a sprinkling of fresh herbs.  This is not the most beautiful of soups on its own, so don't skip the garnish.

 

Favorite Reads:  We're off to the states this week, where my copy of Kristin Espinasse's new book Blossoming in Provence awaits.  If you haven't ordered it yet, time to grab one, plus some for your francophile friends.  And to Sue Wallace, je te remercie beaucoup for recommending the book To Burgundy and Back Again: A Tale of Wine, France, and Brotherhood last month.  Ron just finished it and I've started it, it's a fun book.

In the Comments:  Hey Linda, great minds...and Oh la, that Eggnog Royale, got to make it NOW!  Y'all, don't miss Linda's recipe. Meanwhile Pam has a new Kindle, Mariella has a new ipad, and Sarah had a BIG anniversary, felicitations!  Belinda, we miss you bunches (read her beautiful tribute to her stay last year at Château de Balleure here). As for finding the Revillon Chocolates stateside, Amazon.com now lists them, but they're 'not yet available'. Stay tuned. Plus, Martin has his own interesting quote to add. And MILLE MERCIS for all the beautiful holiday greetings, Bonne Année to all! 

Our Reader's Blogs:  Warning:  if you visit Paris Through my Lens, fellow southerner Virginia's blog, you'll want to hop on a plane toute de suite!  And here's a really intriguing blog:  Reader Nancy Hinchliff's  Business And Creative Womens Forum.  You'll find all kind of good things here about women's interests and issues, but especially some thought provoking books for your book club or your library.

Life’s Little Lessons, in French and in Chocolate

Advice goes down easier when taken with chocolate, n’est pas?  At least that’s how we like to do it.  

If your memory is really good, you may recall our last year’s Happy New Year Post about those traditional French chocolates that tout le monde eats during the holidays, Les Révillons.  They are chocolate bonbons and truffles to die for, in many flavors, wrapped up like tiny gifts.  And inside, une petite surprise:  a little quote for the new year, en français, bien sûr,  though taken from authors from around the globe.  

This year’s quotes seem particularly good, so we have once again made  a noble effort to consume many chocolates, to bring you lots of wisdom.  Food for thought for a happy new year.  Be sure to cover up those translations if you want to try your hand at the French.  And who knows, they may inspire a resolution or two!

 

L’art, c’est le reflet que renvoie l’âme humain éblouie de la splendeur du beau.--Victor Hugo

Art, it is the reflection that returns to the human soul the dazzling splendor of the beautiful.

La jeunesse de l’Amérique est sa plus vieille tradition: elle dure depuis 300 ans.--Oscar Wilde.

The youth of America is its oldest tradition.  It’s been going on now for 300 years.

Celui que pose une question risque cinq minutes d’avoir l’air bête.  Celui qui ne pose pas de questions restera bête toute sa vie. --Proverbe Chinois.

Those who ask ask a question risk five minutes of looking stupid.  Those who don’t ask questions stay stupid their whole lives.--Chinese Proverb.

CHOCOLAT: un Caprice Honteux et Onctueux que l’on Croque en toute Occasion avec Légèreté, Amour, et Tendresse.  --Anonyme.

CHOCOLATE:  a Caprice unHoly and Oh so smooth which one Craves on every Occasion with Levity, Adoration, Tenderness and Ecstasy.---Anonymous (With apologies for my translation, had to get all those letters in!). 

On s’étonne trop de ce qu’on voit rarement et pas assez de ce qu’on voit tous les jours.  --Madame de Genlis

One is amazed too much with what one sees rarely, and not enough with what one sees every day. 

Expérience:  nom dont les hommes baptisent leurs erreurs.--Oscar Wilde

Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes. 

C’était si beau que j’ai fermé les yeux.--Yvan Audouard

It was so beautiful that I had to close my eyes.

Un seul être vous manque et tout est dépeuplé.---Aplhonse de Lamartine

You miss one person, and the world is empty.

Le baiser est la plus sûre façon de se taire en disant tout.  --Guy de Maupasant

A kiss is the surest way to be silent, while saying everything.

 

That last one could only be French. And on that note, gros bises and Bonne Année to all!

 

RECIPE:  Cafe au Lait de Poule                              

What does one drink with Les Revillons?  Let’s do a little cultural mash-up and have a café au lait, but made with eggnog.  The French don’t know from eggnog, it's not common here.  But I adore their name for it:  lait de poule, or 'hen's milk'.  

Heat up a quarter to a half cup of prepared eggnog in a saucepan, just until hot.  In a cup or mug, put a splash of bourbon or cognac, then a shot of expresso, or two if you prefer.  Pour in the hot eggnog (froth it first, if desired).  Top with whipped cream and nutmeg. Serves one, or two if you've already started on your diet for the new year.

 In the Comments: SO many lovely Christmas wishes!  Many thanks to all. 

Favorite Reads:  A great book from one of our readers: Hidden in Paris is Corine Gantz's novel about three women, living in a hidden jewel of a house in the center of Paris, who are reinventing their lives.  A perfect, cozy companion for a winter's day.

Our Reader's Blogs:  "Gone to Provence in my mind", that would be Liza at Provence in Ann Arbor.  Join her there for a fellow Francophile's food thoughts.  Then there is Emily of Rue de France who is actually living the dream in the oh so lovely town of Annecy in the Alps.

 
Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved.

Gifts from France, Welcome and Unexpected

Once upon a time two people, happy with their life but a bit restless, took a flying leap and moved to France, and made a surprise landing in a château.  

Nearly nine years later--still  here!--we  often miss the states, especially our friends, family, palm trees and perpetual sunshine.  But the Christmas season has me thinking about gifts, both given and received.  I decided to make a list of the gifts that this move to France has given us.  If you’ve spent some time in a foreign country,  maybe you will have some of your own to add to the list.

Here are our special gifts from France, in no particular order: 

A  broader world view.  Politics, culture, customs--it all looks different from this side of the pond.  And no one country has all the answers.

Travel.  All of France is at our feet, and six European countries are a half a day’s drive or a short train ride away.

A new language.  Not only a whole new means of expression, but a window into another culture.

A renewed appreciation of America.  Some of the traits we take for granted are truly unique to our culture:  like our oversized enthusiasm, ambition, and generosity.

Tolerance and patience.  Ah, the French!  Charming, and challenging.  We strive always to be gracious guests in their country.

Bounty.  Food, wine, culture, amitié-- our cup overflows. 

Beauty.  Whatever you think of the French, the magnificent beauty of their country, natural and architectural, is undisputed.

A  sense of security.  Violent crime in France is rare, and so is crime of ANY sort,  in the Burgundy countryside.  

A continuity with history.  Living in a house that’s 700 years old can’t help but change your perspective.    (Photo, speaking of blessings, our French 'family': Châtelains Nicole and Pierre and thier darling grand-daughter Justine).

Friendship.  The fascinating and kind people we’ve met, including our remarkable set of international friends, has been by far the best gift of all.  And I never could have anticipated the birth of this blog, and the friendship it has brought too, readers from all over the world dropping in with gifts of their thoughts, dreams, greetings, advice, books, recipes. 

To all of you, dear friends, I wish you an equal abundance of gifts and blessings for Christmas and in the new year.  Meilleurs Voeux!

 

Favorite Reads:  BIG NEWS this week, our favorite blogger Kristin Espinasse of the French Word a Day blog has a new book out!  It's called Blossoming in Provence .  I've ordered my copy, can't wait to get more of her heartwarming vignettes about life in Provence with her French family. It's already jumped up to the list of Amazon's "Hot New Releases".  Felicitations, Kristin!!   Meanwhile, Reader Sue Wallace has a recommendation for us: White Truffles in Winter by N.M Kelby, a novel about the life of Auguste Escoffier. "Very poetic," says Sue, "a feast for foodies, a love story, some history, trés français.... what more could we want"?

Our Reader's Blogs:  I'm not a huge fan of framed art photos on the wall, but Mark Kane, of Your Garden Show fame, has changed my mind.  You simply MUST go see The Ardent Gardener's Prints here.   He takes super close-ups of flowers and leaves that look almost like contemporary paintings. It will change the way you look at plants--you can see how they have inspired designers and artists.  Follow him on his facebook homepage too, where you can contact him to order prints.  

Delia has a sweet new blog called Mon Coeur est Dans La Campagne.  Nicely written and pretty too, worth a visit just for the fun graphics.  And for fun cruise over to Laura's blog, An Uneducated Palate, and meet Mojo the dog at her Bone Appétit post.  She's made him the cutest homemade dog treats which would be a super gift for a dog lover.

 

 

5 Ways to Frenchify Your Holiday Feast

In a land where food and wine trump all, you can imagine that MUCH attention is given to the Christmas feast.  Time to pull out all the stops, including the cork on the very best champagne.  Having had the good fortune to have eaten many a Christmas meal at a French table, I thought y’all might want to share the experience.   Maybe some of these ideas will make their way to your own table this Christmas. (Photo, a medieval village church near Balleure, on a snowy Christmas eve).

1.  To kick off the feast,  there will of course be that most festive of drinks, Champagne.  We won’t add a touch  of cassis or other liqueurs today, as we usually do, because we’ll be breaking out the GOOD stuff.  We’re dining with friends at the château chez Nicole and Pierre, and their special occasion favorite is Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque.

2.  Let’s talk starters, called entrées in France.  On this day more than one starter might be featured, and there are three that are traditional.  Foie gras is one, but as an animal lover I’m not going to go there.  Up next, fresh oysters, raw or baked.  Since we South Carolinians are used to cooked ones at lowcountry oyster roasts in Charleston, Nicole spoils us with her famous baked, stuffed oysters, or huîtres farcies, a recipe she has graciously shared with us today.  The third one is smoked wild salmon, which will traditionally be served with lime wedges, crème fraïche, and blinis.  Yum.

3.  The main course will be a bird, either a capon, a duck, a turkey, or a goose.  And chestnuts, of course: on the side will be either a purée de marrons, or chestnuts cooked in the pan juices from the bird. This year Maria is making soupe de marrons instead. 

4.  Dessert:  bring on the bûches, Baby! I’ll be making the yule log this time, but of course les pâtisseries all have gorgeous ones in every flavor.  I highly recommend this seductive ‘music video' (from the Paris by Mouth site) called Bûche It, featuring all the bûches de Noël that the very fancy Paris pâtisseries are doing this year.  I’ll take that orange one with polka dots, please, or maybe the one with the gold leaf balls. (Amuse bûche: photo from our local pâtisserie. Will it be raspberry, Chocolate Pistachio, or Coffee?).

5.  I’ve never thought of living in Provence, but when I heard this I almost changed my mind:  they serve 13 desserts for Christmas eve dinner!  The number 13 relates to the 12 days of Christmas, plus Christmas eve.  They’re put out buffet style, and they are particular desserts by tradition, most of them symbolic.  They include nougat, dried fruit and nuts, candied fruit jellies, stuffed dates, fresh fruits, and a yule log or thin waffles.  Eating a sample of each brings good luck in the new year.  And that is my wish for you, a lucky new year and a Joyeux Noël too!

 

RECIPE:  Huîtres Farcies au Château

Plan on 4 oysters per person for a light starter (we greedy goats gobble up 6 or more) 

• Coarse salt for pan
• 2 dozen medium shucked oysters
• 12 ounces (300 grams)  white or cremini mushrooms
• ¼ cup crème fraïche, or sour cream
• ½ teaspoon sea salt 
• ½ teaspoon fresh ground pepper
• One heaping tablespoon each of:
• Fresh chervil
• fresh parsley
• fresh basil
• fresh chives
• ½ cup fine bread crumbs, made in food processor from a French country loaf at least a day old

Shuck the oysters.  Remove the oysters, drain juice, and put them back in the half-shell.  Arrange them in a large shallow pan with a layer of salt in it (this is to stabilize the shells in the pan).  Pre-heat oven to 400F (200 C).

Remove stems from mushrooms, save for your soup pot.  Put the mushrooms in a food processor and pulse a few times just until they are finely minced.   Move them to a bowl and mix them with the crème fraïche or sour cream.   Stir in the herbs, sea salt and ground pepper.  Spoon mixture over oysters.  Mix a bit more salt and pepper into the bread crumbs and sprinkle over oysters.  Bake for about 15  minutes or until oysters are hot and bread crumbs are golden (start checking at 10 minutes).  Serve immediately, with champagne. 

 

Favorite Reads:  More gifts for Christmas,with France in mind.  Today, some lighter fare:  The film Bienvenue Chez les  Ch'tis  was a HUGE sensation in France when it came out a couple of years ago. It's cute and funny, and it absolutely nails the great French north-south character divide.  Watch it for fun and for French insights.  (You can now get it for zone 1 US DVD players, as well as the European zone 2). For humourous books, it's hard to beat the highly irreverant Brit Stephan Clarke, who lives with the French and loves to skewer them.  He has a whole Merde series; Try In the Merde for Love.  Now for some great ART GIFTS:  see below, Our Reader's Blogs.

In the Comments:  Merci for all the nice Christmas wishes.  Don't miss Julie's photo of Père Noël climbing in a window--you find these sneaky Santa's all over France.  Thanks Julie, I was wishing I had a picture of them.  Ido, happy to know you can track Santa on Google Earth!

Our Reader's ART Blogs: Among our readers, three of my favorite artists, with affordable art for gifts: Barbara Andolsek,  Barbara Redmond (of the  A Women's Paris blog), and Kristin Dam (Kristin's just moved to France, so stay tuned for French landscapes!).  Please take a minute to peruse their art, some of it Oh So French. 

 

5 Ways to Make Your Holiday Traditions a Little Bit French

A two part series.  Today, 5 French Christmas traditions to consider.  Next week, it’s all about the special French dishes that go on the holiday table.

Since the French are (rather inactive) Catholics, their Christmas traditions are similar to our own.  But not quite!  There are some fun differences, so pick and choose your favorite French holiday ideas.

I must share with you one amusing difference:  St. Nick, in the states, is usually as plump and round as a merry old elf can be.  But Père Noël in France is a skinny, short little thing compared to our robust Santa.  He has a bit of a belly, but otherwise he’s a svelte Frenchman, all the way.  And probably a red wine drinker, to boot. 

Here are 5 more French holiday traditions:

1.  A Seasonal Shift.  In France, the Christmas season, thankfully, does not start at Labor Day, as it seems to in the states.  Christmas trees go up a few days before Christmas, when the kids get out of school.  But decorations stay up for the 12 days of Christmas, until January 6.

2.  The Lovely Santons.  The French don’t go into a mad decorating frenzy, as we do.  Trees are typically small, decorations simple. (On the other hand French towns and villages go all out with wonderful displays of lights). In French homes there will traditionally be a crèche, or manger, featuring les santons, which are hand painted terra cotta nativity and French village figurines from Provence. The French from every region love to collect them.  In the states you can find them at the Santons de France website. (Photo of Santons from Wikipedia).

3.  Chaussures vs. Chaussettes.  No Christmas stockings for the French. Instead they use shoes.  Kids put out a pair of shoes on Christmas eve, by the fire, and Santa fills them with little goodies.  I asked Nicole if the type of shoes mattered---perhaps the shoes of the person with the biggest feet in the family?  She says they have a better solution:  “Kids will put out their fattest boots, of course!” (photo, below:  stockings are a tradition chez nous, but the French have a different idea).  

4.  Re-thinking the Holiday Card.  The French send holiday cards, but not at Christmas.  They send New Year’s greetings, called cartes de voeux, which should properly arrive sometime between the day after Christmas and the end of January.  I happen to like this custom; you can write and mail your cards after the frenzy of Christmas. 

5.  The Family Gathers.  Here’s a traditional French Christmas schedule:  A simple dinner of small plates or finger food, often eaten in the salon around the fire en famille, on Christmas eve.  Don’t want to spoil the appetite for the big dinner on The Day, dontcha know.  Midnight mass follows.  Presents (and boots) are opened in the morning, and the festive Christmas meal is usually at lunch. Then on Epiphany, the 12th day of Christmas in January, there is the very important Fête des Rois, featuring the delicious galette des rois (see post from Jan. 2011), signaling the end of the season.  And here's wishing you Happy Merrymaking, whatever your traditions. 

(Photo, below: a skinny Père Noel from 1910). 

 

 Favorite Reads:  This week we continue our recommendations for French gift books for the holidays. And guess what, two of our readers have a FABULOUS new book out, just in time for Christmas: How to Cook a Bouillabaise in 37 Easy Steps: Culinary Adventures in Paris and Provence. Now how could you not love a book with that title?  As you can imagine, this very special photo essay book is one of my favorites: The French Château: Life, Style, Tradition.   A beautiful design book to dream over (it's on my coffee table) is The Provençal House , with photos that will take you there.

In the Comments: "Where ARE you from?!" they said to Jacki. Fry sauce is a new one on me! Nancy, great minds think alike, but of course neither of us invented the Reuben, it's a classic (though Herm may have written the first ode to it)---but it's always fun to mess about with traditional recipes.  Suzanne makes a slow-cooker choucroute, good idea.  And Elizabeth, what a great tale, hope you've escaped from your dreamy chambre!

Our Reader's Blogs:  Mark and Diane, authors of the aforementioned new book, have two great travel blogs to sample:  The Paris Insider's Guide and Paris to Provence.  We love wine, so we of course we like visiting the Villa Ragazzi Wine site. Wine lovers will want to read the personal story of Michaela's family vineyard in Napa Valley.  Michaela also writes amusing tidbits about the vintner's life on the site's blog.  And please do subscribe, it you haven't, to Cynthia's The Daily Basics.  She's got all you need to know about Christmas this year (entertaining, gifts, food...) on her e-zine.

A Brasserie Classic with Heart: 'Choucroute Garnie'

Photo:  At the market, the Butcher's pups eagerly await the leftovers from the Choucroute garnie.

At our Saturday market, there is a pony-tailed gentleman who sells artisanal cheeses and of every sort of olive you can imagine, all in beautiful wooden barrels.  We know fall has arrived in Burgundy when he adds to his stall steaming trays of the best  sort of French Saturday lunch:  Choucroute garnie.      Photo below:  Monsieur de la Ponytail.

Choucroute garnie, that classic brasserie dish which originated in Alsace, is not for the faint of heart.  In that you must have strong, un-clogged one to eat it.  The base is choucroute, or sauerkraut (preferably homemade), simmered in beer or a dry Riesling with some duck or bacon fat, and maybe some diced apple thrown in.  To this you add a variety of meats, such as:  smoked sausage, keilbasi, boudin blanc, pork belly, frankfurters, pork loin, bacon, and maybe some goose breast.  You serve it with boiled or sautéd potatoes and mustard to slather on the meat.  if there’s anything more delicious on a crisp fall day, I’m not sure what it could be.  This is French comfort food at its best.

While waiting in line recently at the market to buy our lunch of choucroute garnie, the elderly gentleman in front of me, obviously a regular, related his tale of woe to Monsieur Ponytail before he placed his order.  “But I haven’t seen you in a while!"  Monsieur Ponytail said to his customer.  “I’ve been in the hospital,” he responded, leaning on his cane.  “I had a major crise cardiaque! (heart attack).  Ma foi, my doctor put me on a low-fat, healthy diet.  So you’ll have to give me just half of my regular lunch."   At which point Monsieur Ponytail dished out a heaping bowl of sauerkraut and added a rather alarming portion of pork belly and smoked sausages.  His customer sighed heavily and went on his way to eat his ‘light’ lunch.  Perhaps the red wine he likely washed it down with cleaned out his arteries.  

The history of choucroute garnie is the history of the French brasserie.  The beer halls so popular in Germany at some point slipped over into the Alsace region of France.  The bars began to serve food along with the beer:  small bowls of sauerkraut, and some bits of pork to go with it.  These three compatible ingredients were eventually combined into one dish, and fluffed up with other cuts of meat.  The convivial community atmosphere of these bars, where anyone from the farmer to the fashionable could meet and eat, evolved into the French brasserie, which eventually made its way to Paris.  

One iconic French brasserie in Paris is Bofinger, near the Places des Vosges.  It has all the components of a great brasserie:  the art deco décor, tuxedoed waiters dashing about with overloaded trays, a lively, noisy ambience.  There’s the usual large menu, but this is their speciality:  choucroute garnie, served family style on huge, raised metal platters placed in the center of the table.  If you haven’t been, you must go.  Forget your heart-healthy diet for a day, and indulge your other heart---the one that loves a memorable moment à table with those you love. 

If you want to tackle crocroute garnie at home, I recommend Jacque Pépin’s recipe (you do have his new book on your Christmas list don’t you?).  In the meantime, here is another very simple recipe with sauerkraut, which is also one of my favorite ways to use up the last of the turkey leftovers!

 

RECIPE:  Spicy Hot Turkey Reubens

For two sandwiches, spread four slices of rye bread with the special sauce below.  On two slices mound up some sliced turkey (the milder white meat is best here) and good sauerkraut.  Top with slices of Emmental or other Swiss cheese, and several slices of pickled jalapenos (this was my husband's idea, he likes everything hot hot).  Top with the other two slices of bread.  Melt plenty of  butter in a cast iron skillet and grill sandwiches on each side until cheese is melted and bread is nicely browned.  Good served with cornichons and sliced apples. 

Special sauce:  mix about 3 parts mayonnaise to one part chili sauce (or ketchup).  Stir in a splash of lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste, plus a splash of brandy for good measure. 

Ron's Corner:  "I don't like EVERYTHING hot.  Just my food and my women."

 

Favorite Reads:  Speaking of food, the toney town of Mougins on the Cote d'Azur is a mecca for foodies.  It's gorgeous, too.  See the article I wrote about it, called 'Village Life: Southern Belle' in the December issue of France Magazine.

And this week, we begin a series of recommendations for the perfect Christmas gift books for Francophiles.  For French travelers, virtual or real, something from the Simonetto Greggios series 101 Beautful Small Towns in France  or 101 Beautiful Towns in France Food and Wine should be a hit.  There is also an  Italy  version.  Or, for Franco-foodie friends, try a fun French memoir, just out:   Cooking for Claudine, about an American who speaks no French but marries a Parisian woman--and ends up with the daunting task of cooking a holiday feast for his new mother-in-law. 

Our Reader's Blogs:  Paris for the holidays, oh la la!  Get the scoop from Diane at her blog, Paris Insider's Guide.   And do not miss the beautiful Provence Rugs this week at the wonderful design site, An Eye for Detail.

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved. 

Just a SIMPLE lunch....

Our neighbors Viviane and Bernard had dined chez nous, but we had never been to their home, down the road.  Their house is the maison secondaire for our cat Domino, who splits his time between our two abodes and moves in with them full-time when we travel. On this particular Monday they invited us down to meet their son and daughter-in-law from Lyon, who were passing through town.  “Just a simple lunch,” said Viviane.  “Un repas simple, you understand”.    Photo:  Our rotten au gratin cat, at home at his' maison secondaire'.

At noon as we were getting ready to walk over, Ron was holding a good bottle of red.  “No need to bring wine”, I said. “ I’ve brought a little gift for them, and anyway, they said it’s just a simple lunch, we won’t be gone long.

“Hmmph,"  said The Wise One.  “The French don’t do simple meals.”  But he left the wine at home. Domino trotted along beside us for the short promendade.

We started with apperos in the salon:  saucisson, cherry tomatoes, olives, nuts, and a wide choice of drinks.  Their kids were lively and talkative, and we were soon working on the problems of the French labor market, the American economic crisis, and ‘Sarko's’  latest scandal.  Our cat slept comfortably in his favorite chair. Funny to see him right at home,  even with his own dinner bowl, chez Viviane and Bernard.

Lunch in the salle à manger did start simply.  A lovely mixed salad was served.  Then Bernard, decked out in his best apron, arrived with a big platter of haricots verts with parsley and roasted rattes (fingerling potatoes), all straight from the garden.  When we had eaten our fill, yet another huge platter arrived: a couple of hens, roasted to perfection, with a yummy sauce.  Were we done?  Mais non!   There was a platter with a bounty of cheeses, and assorted breads.  When that was polished off, a beautiful  fresh fruit salad was presented in a footed bowl, along with a treat: a loaf of brioche, and a bottle of crémant, a sparkling Champagne-esque wine made locally.  We thought for sure that was it, but then a luscious pear tart arrived, followed by expresso all round.

We teased them about un repas simple, having expected maybe a salad and ice cream, but, as usual, it was a problem of linguistics.  “'Simple', en français,” said Viviane, "means the meal will be served family style, as opposed to plated up.  And the ingredients will be things the family might eat on a daily basis." So, not the foie gras or truffles you might serve to guests, but otherwise an all-out French feast.  Now we know.

We had not quite solved the political problems of both countries, but it was time to leave so we gathered up our shared cat and said our au revoirs.  It was 6:30 pm. 

After all, it was time to go home and get dinner started.

 

Hope your Thanksgiving feast is as special as this repas simple.  Lots of good Thanksgiving thoughts and blessings coming at you from across the pond! 

 

RECIPE:  Bernard's Pear Tart, trés simple

This simply elegant tarte aux poires is a favorite dessert in France, and you will see it in the pâtisseries. Bernard's was extraordinary. He also makes it the same way, with apples.  Note that this is a very thin tart, so you get just the crunch of the crust and the burst of pear flavor.

Bernard uses a prepared pâte feuilletée, which is similar to our frozen puff pastry.  You can use this, or make a regular pie crust pastry. Press pastry into a shallow tart pan, and roll the egdes over a bit.  Bake it for 10 minutes or so, in a 400F (200c) oven, until firm (use pie weights, or rice).  If Bernard's in a hurry, he doesn't pre-bake it.  But he says if the fruit is extra juicy, it may end up soggy.    Photo: For the record, my version, pictured here, is not nearly as pretty as Bernard's. 

Meanwhile, peel and finely chop a couple of ripe pears and cook them in a skillet with a bit of butter and sugar.  Cook them down until they make a sort of jam. (I had to add water to mine).  Mash or purée them.

Spread the  pear mixture over the bottom of the pastry.  With a Mandoline Slicer or by hand, slice three peeled, cored, ripe pears very thinly.  If pears are small you may need more. Arrange them neatly in circles in one layer, overlapping slices, over the pastry.  Bake at 400F (200c) until golden, 20 to 30 minutes.

Remove from oven and immediately sprinkle the tart with a tablespoon of vanilla sugar. If you prefer you can brush the pears with melted apricot jam. (We can buy vanilla sugar prepared; or just store a sliced vanilla bean in your granulated sugar. Or add vanilla extract to your cooked pear mixture and use regular sugar).  Cool and serve in slices with vanilla ice cream. 

 

Favorite Reads:  Dear Readers, I'm curious, are you e-readers too?  The new Kindle Fire is shipping, do you covet one? I'm an iPad kind of girl myself.  I love it that I can load up lots of books, magazines and movies, especially when I get on a plane--and lighten up my groaning suitcase!  Here's a fun app for iphone or ipad: In case I run out of books, I've loaded the 'Masterpieces' app, which has 36 classic novels, ready to read off-line, all for less than a buck. 

In the other big book news du jour, Jacque Pepin, that fabulously famous French chef and author, has published his definitive cookbook, Essential Pepin: More Than 700 All-Time Favorites from My Life in Food. Francophiles, this one belongs on your shelf, or maybe even your coffee table.  And speaking of great cookbooks....

Our reader's blogs:  Jessie Oleson's Cakespy is one of the cleverest food blogs around. And now she has a darling  new cookbook, CakeSpy Presents Sweet Treats for a Sugar-Filled Life.  Who doesn't want a sugar-filled life?  A great Christmas present for your Sweetie.

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved.