We make a trip back to our former home of Charleston every winter, but Christmas is always spent at Château Balleure with our “French family”, Nicole and Pierre, and any friends who have not returned to native lands. We’ve adopted the French Christmas traditions, which are not so different from our own.
Since so many people depart, we collect those at loose ends at Balleure for the Christmas eve fête. There is always a stray guest or two who has dropped in from Europe or Australia, and friends who are alone or with small families. This year we feel especially blessed, with a visit from our youngest daughter and our son-in-law. Dinner seems to have quickly grown to 20 or so; C’est normal, chez le château. Everyone gathers early to cook, and the guys shuck a mountain of huîtres, as oysters are our traditional first course (though foie gras is the most common Christmas starter). But first there is really good champagne, de rigueur for le revillon, the Christmas eve feast. Often this is served with smoked salmon and blinis, with creme fraiche.
Nicole is making a turkey stuffed with sausage, though the French might also do a goose, duck. a capon, or even game. There will normally be a dish with chestnuts. Nicole makes a purée of them, and I bring the leek casserole. Dessert will of course be a bûche de Noel. The bakeries make such fantastic ones-- beautifully decorated little logs in flavors like praline, coffee , dark chocolate or Grand Marnier--that it’s easier to succumb than to cook. Finally, there will be expresso by the fire and little gifts to open.
Like many of you, we will spend Christmas morning en famille , with just our kids and a special breakfast that we can nevertheless throw together easily in our PJ’s. Baked eggs are my favorite special occasion breakfast dish, and I’m always surprised at how many friends are unfamiliar with them. They’re easy enough that children can can help make them. No measuring required, and pretty, too. So from our family to yours, a very Merry and delicious Christmas!
Recipe: Christmas Baked Eggs
Photo: Baked eggs work for 2 or 20.
Pre-heat oven to 350 (175C). Plan on 2 eggs per person, plus a few extra if you’ve got a crowd. Butter a casserole dish. Break eggs one at a time into a small bowl, then slide them into the dish, yolks intact. To give you an idea of pan size: an 8x8 glass casserole dish is good for about 8-10 eggs. Eggs should not be completely spread out, you need a bit of depth.
Measure out some light cream, about a tablespoon for every 4 eggs. Very gently drizzle the cream onto the whites and between the yolks. Spread cream around gently with a fork to even it out, keeping yolks intact. Season with sea salt and ground pepper.
Sprinkle lightly with grated cheese, but not too much, maybe a tablespoon for every 4 eggs. Cheddar works well, or parmesan, Swiss, or a mixture. Sprinkle with chopped chives (or slice the green tops of scallions thinly). Parsley will work too. Sprinkle with just a bit of very finely chopped red peppers, for color. Bake for 12-18 minutes (time depends on depth of eggs in your pan). Bake JUST until yolks are barely set, so start checking at 10 minutes. Overcooking is the major danger here, and they’ll cook a tiny bit more after they come out. Serve immediately, with Mimosas and Christmas cheer.
In the COMMENTS this past week: Anne's still talking biscuits—ever heard of Truck Stop Biscuits? Sandra’s contemplating a move to France; Per Suzanne and Patricia, lentils are lucky, who knew? John’s mastering his restaurant French and Cynthia—well, she can say Bonjour. Patricia Flournoy shares her Chicken Tangine recipe (see the the Share a Recipe section). Don’t miss Mark’s language humiliation. And Mark, yes we’re cheeky to mess with a Bocuse recipe. That’s the great thing about cooking, everyone can be a star!
