Borné dans sa nature infini dans ses voeux, L'homme est un dieu tombé qui se souvient des cieux.
Limited in his nature, infinite in his desire, man is a fallen god who remembers heaven.
Alphonse de Lamartine
When it’s summertime, we look for restaurants with sunny outdoor terraces, in the middle of the action. The food is not crucial; the French do amazing luncheon salads, and with pommes frittes on the side, you can’t go wrong.
But when the summer breezes turn to chilly winds and the sun stubbornly hides behind gloomy gray clouds, we know exactly where we want to go: Chez Jack.
It’s called L’auberge de Jack, but toute le monde calls it Chez Jack. Jack is the chef, his wife works the front. Part of its charm is its lovely location, in the quiet little village of Milly-Lamartine, named after the famous French poet who was born there. You can take a small stroll and see the house where he was born.
This is French comfort food at it’s best, and all that goes with it. Madame is friendly, the ambiance is perfection for a country bistro, the food is hearty traditional Burgundian fare. Unusual for France, many dishes are served family style.
The dish that keeps calling us back there is that French classic, Gratin Dauphinois. This last sunday, Madame brought us a big steaming casserole for the table, in a dish that had seen plenty of action, hot from the oven. My friend Ali said, “But that’s huge, we’ll never eat it all!”. There wasn’t a bite left.
Here’s the best part: the menu changes daily (often a pot au feu, or a boeuf bourguigon), but if this side dish isn’t on le menu that day, you can request it when you make your reservation, and Monsieur Jack will make it just for you, anytime.
I wanted to copy it, so I went right to the expert: Clotilde, the Parisian cook over at the Chocolate & Zucchini blog. I started with her excellent recipe, and of course I’ve pimped those potatoes a bit (couldn’t resist adding some sautéed onions, and a sprinkling of parmesan). Not quite as the same as when you eat in in the warm and cozy Chez Jack, but le paradis nonetheless!
RECIPE: Jazzed up Gratin Dauphinois
Photo: The real deal, at Chez Jack
- 2 ½ lb kg (1 kilo) potatoes , a mix of waxy and baking potatoes
- 2 cups (500 ml) milk (whole or part-skim)
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
- ½ teaspoon nutmeg
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 1 clove garlic, sliced lengthwise
- ¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream
- ½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
Serves 6
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C) and rub the bottom and sides of a medium glass or Stoneware Au Gratin Dish (about 2 quarts/2 liters capacity) with the cut sides of the garlic clove.
Peel the potatoes, rinse them briefly, and slice them thinly and evenly (use a food processor or a Mandoline Slicer
Combine the potatoes, milk, salt and nutmeg in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, and keep simmering for 8 minutes, stirring the potatoes and scraping the bottom of the pan regularly to prevent sticking/scorching, until the potatoes are just tender but not falling apart. The milk will gradually thicken to a creamy consistency.
While the potatoes are simmering, sauté the onions in a little butter or olive oil until done, about 8 minutes.
Transfer half of the potatoes into the baking dish, spread the onions over all, and drizzle with half of the cream. Add the rest of the potatoes, pour the cooking milk over them, and drizzle with the remaining cream.
Bake for 30 minutes, then sprinkle with the cheese. Bake 5 to 10 minutes longer, until bubbly on the edges and browned on top. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.
You can bake the gratin a few hours ahead, let cool, and reheat for 15 minutes in a 220°C (430°F) oven before serving.
Favorite Reads: Loyal Reader Mark Kane of yourgardenshow.com fame has an enticing recommendation for us: "For good reading that will add background to travels in France, read this book: France: A Traveler's Literary Companion.
In the Comments: We are awash in French poets this week! Reader Monique dropped me an email to say that perhaps rue de la Fontaine in Poisson was so named not because there was a fountain on the street, but after the famous poet Jean de La Fontaine. Now if we can just solve the fish-out-of-water mystery!
Our Reader's Blogs: Now here is something really different. Leslie writes a blog (and has a book out) about how mystery writers can write accurately about the law and courtrooms, called Law and Fiction. You can also read a good interview with her at the Happy Endings website. To follow reader Kim's expat adventures in the Auvergne, go to Cabes in France.
