Your Perfect Fantasy of a Provençal Bistro

If you’re like me, when you fantasize about the south of France, you’ve got a little idealized picture of the perfect spot to lunch and to languish away an afternoon.  You want it sunny and bright but cozy, set in a pretty village.  You picture it as colorful, stylish in that offhand French way, but not too chi-chi or modern.   With memorable food of course, traditional but fresh, and not too high of a price tag.  Well you don’t ask much, do you? 

Restaurants that live up to the dream are few and far between, but when they do, we remember them and revisit them.   And one of our favorites, located in the pretty wine village of Châteuneuf-du-Pape, has always been La Mère Germaine (pictured above, and below right). 

Sadly it closed a couple of years ago, but we were in the neighborhood last month, looking for lunch, and I just happened to read on Twitter that very morning (what are the odds?) that it had reopened.  So off we went to check out the new management.  

Quelle Surprise!  it was even better.  The new folks were friendly and attentive.  They had fluffed up the decor in the nicest way.  The food was excellent and there is still the surprise of that sunny terrace hidden away at the back, with a view of the valley. 

What to do after lunch?  Well there are about a zillion little wine caves to visit, for tastings. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is in the Côtes du Rhône wine area, is famous for their reds, mostly made from grenache grapes. There are some nice boutiques, too, and a château on top of the hill to hike up to and work off des poids.  Your Provençal dream has come true.

 

RECIPE:  Roasted Spiced Pears with Pecans

A pretty way to serve pears, inspired by our dessert at La Mère Germain. Healthy, too (well sort of).  I wouldn’t begin to attempt that froup-de-doo on top, but if you can do it, go for it!

• 3 tablespoons (45 gr) butter
• 1/3 cup brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon nutmeg
• ¼ teaspoon dried ginger
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 4 firm-ripe pears, peeled and cut into thick slices 
• ½ cup roasted pecans, finely chopped
• whipped cream (or crème fraiche or ice cream)

Heat oven to 450 F (220 C).  Mix sugar, butter, and spices in a  large saucepan and heat to a simmer, stirring, until butter is melted and sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla.  Add pears and toss well.  Place in a baking dish and roast 15-20 minutes, just until pears are tender.  Divide among 6 bowls or glasses.  Sprinkle with pecans, saving some for garnish.  Top with whipped cream and garnish with remaining nuts. Serve it hot or cold.  

Favorite Reads:  I’m not at my French desk today, I'm reporting to your from the states.  So from the South Carolina Bureau, here are some random happy reads, some authors that are old favorites (and I’d LOVE to hear some of yours).  

I’m a sucker for English novels, and my favorite, for that dry English humor, is Barbara Pym. I’m not a big mystery reader, but when I’m in a mystery mood I love Elizabeth George , an American who writes English murder mysteries, go figure. While we're talking about England, fans  can now pre-order  Downton Abbey Season 2  on DVD (to be released 2/7) to check out the latest scandals and trysts. In Europe, we saw it all this past fall. (I hope they will show you the final installment, the 2-hour Christmas special, in which something actually works OUT for these people). Finally one other mystery writer I love is Tony Hillerman, who offers up an education on American Indian culture along with a good story.

In the Comments:  Libby, I do love peeking through those Paris gates into the courtyards.  Derin, hope you'll do that book soon, sounds super.

Our Reader's Blogs: I've talked about The Daily Basics before, my favorite blog by fellow Better Homes and Gardens editor Cynthia Bogart.  Now she's really wamped it up into a full-fledged magazine, the best on the web!  The debut was this week, and it's free to subscribe.  I'm ever so pleased to be joining the site as a contributor.  Y'all might want to catch my design article about doing closets and doors the chic French way, "A French Door of a Different Kind".

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2011 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved. 

 

Comments

[Liza in Ann Arbor]

Well this post is right up my alley! ;) I'll put this one in my file in case we pass through Chateauneuf du Pape on our Provence trip next summer--thanks for the tip!

[Thedailybasics]

We visited Châteauneuf-du-Pape and loved it - our Christmas card with the kids in the ruins of the original chateau was done there! I am making this recipe for my husband who LOVES fruit desserts and any recipe you post! Merci Lynn!

[Nancy LoBalbo]

Ohhhh, Lynn! One of my best memories of Provence is a dinner at La Mere Germaine in 2008. It was U.S. election Day and Obama had just won the election and tout France was excited to talk to us Americans about it! I even took a mat from the restaurant with the 'Ballade de la Mere Germaine" printed on it and had it framed. It now hangs in my kitchen. What a beautiful little town. I have a very special memory from a visit to the French countryside in 2006, for a family wedding which I will share with you at another time. Thanks for the memories, as they say!

[Sarah Gaede]

I love Barbara Pym too! You are inspiring me to reread her books.

[Joyce]

Oh my, can't wait to try this ! Sounds sinfully delicious ! Keep them coming Lynn !

[Suzanne Hurst]

Merci for the recipe! I don't eat desserts much, but this one is fairly low sugar, so I may try.
I'm not sure if I already mentioned it, but one of my favorite authors, is a now Louisvillian, formerly from Alabama. She is Sena Jeter Naslund, and if any of your readers are interested in Marie Antoinette, Naslund's ABUNDANCE is a must-read. Once you've read her, you'll want to read all her books.

[Natalia]

Lynn, I so enjoyed today's post! (as always!)
Chateauneuf-du-Pape was my dear dad's favorite red,
and when we (as newlyweds!) lived in France, there was nothing we enjoyed more than driving through Cotes du Rhone (and tasting!)
Thank you for reviving such a happy memory!
(Also for such a YUMMY recipe!)
Bon journee!
Natalia

[Monty]

Yipes, you meant Chateauneuf-du-Pape!! Right?? Miss you, Alio

[Dee Jackson]

I can't believe it was five and a half years ago we had lunch on the sunny terrace with you; sitting outside in November. We NEED to go back.

[Leslie Budewitz]

Lynn, we have such fond memories of lunches like you describe in Provence!

And I'm hooked on Downton Abbey, too! Loved Barbara Pym, and as a mystery writer, heartily endorse your recommendation of Eliz George -- a new one's due out soon! You might also enjoy Deborah Crombie's mystery series. following two police officers in modern England, or Rhys Bowen's Royal Spyness mystery series set in 1930s England. (Deb is American, Rhys is British living in the US.)

[Barney Lehrer]

Great place. They have a new website at http://lameregermaine.fr

[andre Mazy]

HI

I am André the former Maître D ? and i had the chance to give a new life to la mere germaine after it has been close for 15 months , for ALL OF YOU WHO WANTS TO COME TO CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE , if you need anything to make your holidays a nice time feel free to contact me , an advice , a booking for a special tasting , it will be my pleasure and FREE ? because after 7 months after the opening , and without advertise , it feels Warm to see your comments , and ALL OF YOU ARE MY BEST SUPORT, for my team and myself !!
You love Chateauneuf , feel free to contact me ! i am the one on the picture ( andré )and i help you for free
andre.mazy@laposte.net

A BIENTOT

[andre mazy]

Hi Nancy

I am André from la mere germaine , a friend of mine from the US sent me this article and i am so happy to see you loved Chateauneuf du Pape and La Mere Germaine , I hope you will come over again , and If i can be helpfull to plan a trip , please let me know !!

Cheers

André