I’ve avoided this post for quite a while. I like to keep things upbeat, and our life in France IS upbeat and wonderful. But after living here for 10 years and visiting for many years before that, it’s impossible to ignore the problem: The long revered French restaurant cuisine is going straight down the tubes. It’s shameful, really. Happily, there’s a move afoot to correct it. (PHOTO: The French are pouring their fabulous international reputation right down the drain).
Sure, at the very top level, French cuisine is unbeatable. But at lesser restaurants and especially at bistros and brasseries, they’ve mostly switched over to commercially prepared dishes. Noted Paris chef Xavier Denamur says the number of French restaurants serving ''industrial fodder'' is over 70%! Not just opening a can or pulling ingredients out of the freezer, mind you, we're talking entire meals--from meat to veggies to sauces to desserts--that are pre-prepared, and then zapped when you order. It’s impossible to believe that the gastronomically-obsessed French are putting up with it.
It’s a perfect storm of hard economic times, modern food technology, and the new fast-food lifestyle. Restaurants can make huge profits by serving industrial food. They don’t need the expense of a real chef, and they can cut down on all of their labor costs, as well as on food waste.
A small but significant move toward change: Chef Alain Ducasse, along with a slew of other shining food celebs, has started a new label that will be awarded to restaurants featuring fresh food prepared on site. The private group, College Culinare de France, will award plaques that restaurants can post (at right). "Most restaurants ‘only do industrial cooking’, " he says. "These days, the average person has no idea what they are in for when they open the door to a restaurant.” He adds that to be awarded the new label, restaurants will be required to have an in-house chef and not "someone who reheats a frozen bag".
For a foodie like me, this problem is the end of civilization as we know it. So, how to avoid these microwave mills in France? Look for the new plaque, and search the Michelin guide (though many think it contributes to the problem). And, when you see a menu at a small place with like a thousand items on it, you can be darn sure they’re not cranking out everything by hand. Search out places with the daily menu on a chalk board, and very few à la carte items. And here is my other solution. Every time I go in a restaurant or bistro, I’m asking: what’s homemade and what’s industrial on your menu? (even though I don’t really have much hope of getting an honest answer). And I’m making it clear which I’m choosing. If the consumers don’t demand change, who will? I hope you’ll join me in taking them to task. And I’m VERY interested to hear your experiences on this subject, please do share! (PHOTO, A French exception: A restaurant in Nice showcases the chef's fresh veggies and herbs right out on the counter).
Now, let’s show them how easy it is to cook up something fresh and fabulous, and easy too!
RECIPE: Spicy Pork Roast En Croute
En croute is a French term meaning something wrapped in a pastry or crust of some sort. This pork tenderloin is wrapped in a low-brow crust that’s easy and delicious: a crunchy baguette.
This recipe comes from the wonderful chef, Joanne Weir. I’ve followed her basic recipe, but kicked the flavors up a notch. It’s my company main dish this year, and it’s fun and unexpected. It couldn’t be simpler to make. Carve it à table for a nice presentation. (Photo courtesy of Traditional Home magazine).
Serves 8
- 2 pork tenderloins, total of 2.5 pounds
- 1 thin, fresh, good quality baguette (the length and width of your tenderloins)
- Olive oil, grainy mustard, soy sauce
- 3 large cloves of garlic, minced
Spice mix:
- 3 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
- 2 teaspoons snipped fresh thyme leaves
- 3 teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves
- 2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives
- 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed
- 1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
- 2 teaspoons sea salt
The morning of:
Season tenderloins lightly with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium high heat and brown the meat in oil for about 8 minutes, turning frequently and reducing heat a bit as needed. Pour off any pan drippings and save for later. Set tenderloins aside to cool slightly.
Mix 3 tablespoons of olive oil with a tablespoon of soy sauce, a teaspoon of grainy dijon mustard, and the garlic. Roll the tenderloins with the mixture, on a plate. Leave them in the fridge for a few hours, turning them over from time to time.
A couple of hours before you will cook them, drain the excess oil and coat tenderloins with the spice mixture. Slice the baguette lengthwise, evenly. Scoop out most of the mie, which is the soft interior of the baguette, and discard. Set aside. Now you’re ready for your last-minute prep.
When ready to cook, pre-heat the oven to 375F (190c) and brush the interior of the bread with 3 tablespoons of olive oil, combined with any leftover pan drippings. Place the tenderloin inside the bread. Scoop up any spices that did not stick to the tenderloin and spread them inside the baguette. Tie the baguette tightly about every 3 inches with kitchen string. Put it on a baking sheet and pop it into the oven.
Here’s the tricky part: you can’t easily cut into it to be sure it’s done, so you need to carefully check the internal temperature with a Quick-Read Thermometer
Cut into slices (a bread knife works best) and serve--no sauce required. I like serving this with baked cheese grits and roasted mixed bell peppers.
In the COMMENTS, about coffee and tea: Natalia talks about good tea bags she got at Mariage Frère, the famous Paris maison du thé. I would buy their tea just for the beautiful packaging! Sip a cup while you check out their pretty website. Chris, Sandy, and Jonelle are all drinking noisettes: it must be a trend! Une noisette is a single-shot expresso, served in the usual small cup, with just a dollop of steamed milk. Rich but without the heaviness of a café au lait. Noisette means hazelnut in French, and the coffee is called this because of its nut-like color. And Caterina, I am absolutely with you, when it comes to feeding kids!
Favorite Reads: Want to read more about the crisis in French cuisine? Try Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France
