Tarte tatin is one of THE classic French desserts. But I never make it. Pourquoi? Because our châtelaine, Nicole, makes the best tarte tatin on the planet, and at Ron's request she makes it every time we come for dinner. So, no need, and the competition is too tough.
But it's peach season in La Bourgogne, and maybe chez vous as well, and they are fabulous this year. We've been eating them by the bushel. My star company dessert this year has been Pêche Melba Coupes (sundaes): layers of vanilla ice cream, crushed almond cookies, fresh peaches and raspberries, with whipped cream and toasted almonds on top.
Then I saw a recipe for a peach cake that looked delicious. It's a peach upside down cake--basically a pêche tarte tatin, though the cake is lighter and airier. Talk about a mash-up of France and the Deep South, perfect!
So I made it for company. But first, a culinary confession. Just as I was putting it in the oven, I remembered that I left out the baking powder! Catastrophe! Too late for a re-do, so I served it anyway. And it was still good! (if a bit flat). So folks, if you're a slapdash cook like me, you can't really mess up this recipe. And it's the perfect delight for summer's end.
RECIPE: Peach Tarte Tatin with Amaretto Cream
This recipe is one I lifted from chef Virginia Willis, but I made a few changes, like adding the flavors of cinnamon and almonds. If I'd had some pecans, I would have put a few amongst the peaches, but I didn't so I'll do it the next time I make it, when hopefully I remember the baking soda. Use regular whipped cream if you're pressed for time, or even go without, but the Amaretto is a nice finishing touch.
- 4 medium peaches (about 1 1/2 pounds/680 grams), unpeeled and cut into 1/3-inch-thick wedges
- Juice of 1 lemon
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- 1 cup/130 flour
- ¾ teaspoon baking powder
- ¼ teaspoon baking soda
- 1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar, divided
- 5 ounces/140 grams unsalted butter (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons), at room temperature, divided
- 1 teaspoon almond extract
- 2 large eggs
- ½ cup sour cream or creme fraîche
- 1/4 cups whole pecans (optional)
- 1/2 cup heavy cream mixed with 1 tablespoon Amaretto (optional)
- Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a nonstick baking mat or parchment paper. (This is in case the cake bubbles over during baking.)
- In a large bowl, toss the peaches with the lemon juice and cinnamon. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and baking soda.
- In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet cook 1/4 cup of the granulated sugar over medium heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the sugar melts and turns a deep amber color, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately add 2 tablespoons of the butter, stirring vigorously. The mixture may appear curdled and broken; don’t worry, it will smooth out. Arrange the peach wedges in concentric circles over the sugar mixture, overlapping as needed to make them fit. If using, tuck pecans among the peaches, on bottom of pan (you could cook this is a regular skillet then add it to a spring form pan, but a skillet is better).
- With an electric mixer, beat the remaining sugar, butter and the almond extract on medium speed until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until blended after each addition. Add the sour cream and beat until blended. With the mixer running on low speed, gradually add the flour mixture, beating just until blended and stopping to scrape bowl as needed. Spoon the batter over the peaches in the skillet and spread to cover.
- Place the skillet on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until golden brown and a tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes.
- Make the whipped cream, if desired: beat cream with Amaretto in a chilled bowl, to soft peaks.
- Let the cake cool in the skillet on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the edge to loosen. If you see liquid around the edges of the skillet, carefully pour off into a measuring cup and set aside. (It’s O.K. if you don’t have any excess liquid — it all depends on how juicy your fruit is.)
- Carefully invert the cake onto a serving plate and drizzle with any reserved liquid. Let cool about 10 minutes more, to set. Cut into wedges using a serrated knife and serve, topping each slice with whipped cream if you like.
In the COMMENTS: Suzanne, for my regular deep dish tomato pie I put the crust on the top (I use puff pastry), not the bottom. I salt the tomatoes and leave them to drain for a while. Still, there will be water in the bottom. After I take it from the oven, with two pot holders I tilt it over the sink and drain it. I didn't have that problem with Bruno's thin, crispy crust. Frank, you should absolutely return to Beaune! Alix, we missed you this year, where did the time go?
Favorite READS: Sue recommends the Grape Series, by Laura Bradbury. All about France and Beaune too. On my list!
