A Wander, Most Charming

One of the pleasures and surprises of our move to Beaune has been exploring the charm of the surrounding villages that are just a few minutes away. Pommard, Volnay, Mercurey, Puligny Montrachet, maybe names you've heard of if you are a wine lover. 

Tiny Volnay, perched on a hillside overlooking a big valley of vineyards, is the site of one of my favorite restaurants in the area, Le Cellier Volnaysien. The retaurant is a large building set in a cour intérieure, or walled courtyard. Outdoor tables are set in the garden, on the upper stone terrace or the lower, shady gravel terrace. The food is upscale French bistro food, the prices are moderate, and on a perfect Burgundy summer day, there is no better place to be.

Below, the gardens of the restaurant, and diners on the terrace.

 

 

After lunch it's time to flâner (meander) around the village. What attracts me are the little things, the quotidian details in a historic, quiet village which produces some of the most sophisticated wine in the world, peopled by rural farmers, producers, vendors--a mélange of good folk. Pour yourself a glass and join us for a stroll. Salut!

 

The header over the village church door

 

Wine is sold in several small caveaus. I loved the way the ivy was trimmed into a wine glass on this building, to match their logo.

 

Flowers are tucked in everywhere, with abandon.

 

Some fun letterboxes and door knockers...

 

Being a Vigneron may seem glamorous, but grapes are an agricultural product, as evidenced by the many specialized tractors for pruning and spraying and picking that we saw that day.

This vineyard is right on the edge of the village. It's pruning time.

 

A woman tends her pretty couryard garden, and a stone blason adorns a wall.

 

Here is the world's smallest dining terrace. I think you have to climb over the table to get to the other chair.

 

In the COMMENTS: I was overwhelmed by all the good wishes on our return, thank you! Kristin, good luck with that darling new Papillon, a great lockdown companion. Roger, your comment tickled me, and I couldn't agree more! Anne Marie, the airport was not crowded, and we took a rental car to Beaune. Folks here wear masks inside (it's mandated now), but curiously, social distancing is only one metre in France. Virus numbers are low, but it's vacation time and eveyone is one the move, so we'll see. Lee and Maureen, good to hear from you and I think you're in the right place. Renee, we'll all be praying for you. I hate that they will open the schools at this point. I hope all of you will stay safe and well.

In her comment Doris, who made a similar trip back to France, mentioned she did needlepoint on the plane. Here is a photo she sent of her worthy project, nearly completed, and I love the sentiment:

Favorite READS: If you want a nice long read, our reader Betsy recommends Frederick Douglas, Prophet of Freedom by David Blight, which won a pulitzer.  

 

Comments

[Jane Williamson]

I remember having lunch at the Croix de Pommard over thirty years ago.
Both Catherine, our elder daughter and myself had both been diagnosed with certain food intolerances and we asked if we could have the melon with ham for our starters and just the melon for pudding. Of course.
I ordered the andouillette de Troyes and the proprietor was very wary of serving it.
I explained that I came from the North of England and we ate very similar things there.
It turned out that I was the ony english person to clean my plate.
I wonder if the restaurant is still there?
It is my birthday today and we are having Charolais Cote de Bouef, potato wedges with garlic and rosemary and courgettes all cooked on the barbecue.
The potatoes and courgettes coming from the garden of course.
So glad you are back safely and enjoying summer in Beaune and surroundings. We are in a crise here.

[Ellen Hillenmeyer]

What a lovely diversion on a rainy day in Cincinnati. Hoping to be freer to explore new places soon. Glad you are well.

[Norma Plowman]

Lovely! I want to know know you got to go to France when Americans are banned from European travel thanks to Covid. I have cancelled our Sept trip because of this. Thanks.

[Don Montelle]

Chérie, mille merci pour les excellente mémoires de les vignerons de Bourgogne de sud ! Montelle

[Christine Webb-Curtis]

Hello Lynn. Your post is a pleasure. If we can't be there in person, at least we can wander vicariously through your own meanderings. Thanks so much.

Chris

[anne marie]

my recent read was: MY GRAPE YEAR. Interesting story with more info. on-line about the author's life and other books she has written. The village is close to Beaune.

[Connie Rice Allen]

Thanks for the tour Lynn and we are so happy that you arrived healthy! The photos bring back memories of how pretty the little villages look.

[Natalia]

Thank you,Lynn,for these wonderful pictures and descriptions of such beautiful,peaceful places.
I confess thT I am envious,-it has been so long since normalcy is the norm and enjoying life a top priority.
You really give me hope to just keep ganging in.
One day--hopefully sooner than later--we will be partaking of a glass in your honor,with huge appreciation for giving us inspiration .Till then,salut!!

[Francine Martinie Chough]

Bonjour les noms des vignobles sont Mercurey, Puligny Montrachet.
Merci. Would have liked to hear more about your actual arrival and trip from CDG to Beaune since Delta cancelled our flight to Geneva. Merci.

[Debbie Ambrous]

Lynn, you can take me wandering like this any day of the week!! Loved it! Thank you for your beautiful blog stories with photos that help me see France again. I'm happy that you can be there again and soak it up.

[Ali]

Sigh..... Gorgeous pics - just my style!

[Colleen Taylor]

Living vicariously through you with these beautiful & peaceful images Lynn. Thank you for sharing.

[Delia Bourne]

Lovely post and thanks for the bon addresse!

[Doris Wolfe]

Dear Lynn,
Doesn’t it feel good to be back in France! As always loved your blog with photos.
To answer Ellen’s question about how were we allowed to enter France?
We are American citizens and legal French residents coming back to our home.
Stay well and keep on blogging!
😷😷Doris et John

[Susan Leigh Blough]

Lynn,
Thank you for the photos and stories. We are so homesick for France, and I am so glad you got back safely home. Our only granddaughter lives north of Munich, and we usually visit twice a year- but spend weeks in France before and after. Saying that I look forward to your blogs Would be an understatement !!!

[Martin Withington]

Can we recommend a visit to Santenay? A very pretty village, with a lovely central square and an excellent restaurant, Le Terroir facing the magnificent fountain.

Le Terroir has an amazing wine list, with a fabulous selection of Santenay Premier Cru Whites. La Patronne is a little quirky but very pleasant. We’ve been there around nine or ten times now and haven’t been disappointed.