On this side of the pond, where we are still very much under a cloud of confinement for another month, getting a lunch invitation is a big deal—we can only eat outside, and in small groups. So we were thrilled to go to our dear friends’ house for a festive outdoor lunch, for La Pâcques (Easter). Though they are great cooks, they decided to support their local restaurant, which does a full gourmet take-out meal on Sundays.
The beautiful Easter table in our friends' garden
The restaurant is called La Table de Chapaize (pictured at the top). It’s a small but fabulous gourmet restaurant located in a tiny rural village. A couple owns it, one is the chef and her partner works the rest of the house. We knew we were in for a treat. It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in southern Burgundy, and check out the beautiful Romanesque chapel in Chapaize, next door to the restaurant.
Our first course was a dish that I absolutely loved, a salad that tasted like spring itself. It was a little exotic and I decided to try it at home. The chef had listed the ingredients on the menu, and with a little googling, to my surprise I found the exact recipe online.
This is a rice salad with many vegetables, plus mango, an array of fresh herbs, cashews, fresh shaved coconut and fried shallots. Maybe this isn’t something you’d make on a weeknight, but it’s a great company dish.
I don’t know about you, but I’ve never braved a fresh coconut. But with time on my hands, pourquoi pas?
Ron was convinced we would need a machete or a sword to whack it open. However, I watched this YouTube video, which had an easier way using a hammer and screwdriver, and it worked, in a heartbeat.
Then there was the more difficult matter of getting the coconut out of the shell. I tried several suggestions, including one by a Hawaiian who swore that his native technique was the way to go. All to no avail. But then I found this site, and this method worked just fine. I had plenty of fresh coconut for the salad, and lots left over to to pop into the freezer for another day.
If you haven’t tried crispy fried shallots, a common Vietnamese condiment for salads, soups, burgers, or most anything, do not hesitate. They are easy to make and they're reminiscent of French fried onion rings. They are not essential for this salad, but along with the cashews they give it a lively crunch.
RECIPE: Spring Salad with Coconut, Mango, and Cashews
My version of this salad, based on the recipe I found on Epicurious, calls for a mixture of basmati rice and French red rice from the Camargue, but use any rice you like, or other grains like quinoa, bulgar, or a combo. Even orzo would work. Like the Chapaize chef, I served this as a chopped salad, cutting all the vegetables in a small dice.
Serves 4.
Salad Ingredients:
- 1 cup rice or other grains (I used a combo of white basmati and red rice from the Camargue)
- 1/2 cup loosely packed basil leaves, chopped
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 small red bell pepper, chopped
- 2 stalks of celery, chopped
- 1 hot pepper, like a jalapeno, chopped fine
- 2 green onions (or a small red onion), bulb and green ends, chopped
- 1 large mango, diced small
- 2/3 cup shaved fresh coconut
- juice and grated zest of one lime
- 2 tablespoons walnut oil
- 1 tablespoon olive or peanut oil
Topping Ingredients:
- 1/2 cup roasted cashews, roughly chopped, or peanuts
- 3 large or 5 small shallots
- 3/4 cup, ish, of vegetable oil (just enough to cover the shallots)
- lime wedges
Cook the rice according to package directions. Drain and spread out on a sheet pan to cool.
To open and remove the meat of the coconut, use these instructions. Use a mandoline to shave your chunks of coconut into thin slices.
Combine all of the salad ingredients and toss gently. Chill.
For the fried shallots: Slice the shallots crosswise on a mandoline, they should be about as thick as a dime. Put the oil in a pan with the shallots and turn it to medium high heat. Cook them about 15 to 20 minutes, they will bubble away. Stir to separate, from time to time, with a fork. They will be pale golden brown but they will suddenly start to turn a deeper golden brown color. Then in less than a minute, more like seconds, they will be done. (So you have to really WATCH them, toward the end, they can burn quickly. Voice of experience from the last time I made them). Immediately pour the shallots and oil through a strainer (the oil can be reused) and then drain them on paper towels and salt them. They will crisp up quickly, as they cool. You can store any leftovers for a few days.
Serve the salad garnished with the cashews and fried shallots, with lime wedges on the side. Serve with a glass of white or rosé, and celebrate spring.
In the COMMENTS: Barney Lehrer notes that there are several virtual tastings going on on Instagram. And he knows a thing or two about wine, check out his web site, Wine Lovers of NYC. Francine says The Alliance Française of Portland is doing some as well. They are a very active group, also teaching on-line French classes. Jane, good point, start tasting light and go up from there.
Favorite READS: Today we are traveling to the UK and to France. My friend Mariella suggested Lady in Waiting, by Anne Glenconner who was a companion to Princess Margaret. Her life is a wild ride with the Royals. My Canadian friend and fellow French student Debbie is pushing me to read more in French, so I am enjoying the quirky mystery novel she gave me by Guillaume Musso, Et Après.... In the detective series mentioned last week, Jane has found one about Beaune: Nightmare in Burgundy.
