On the world stage, Beaune plays a starring role in the wine universe, as the center of the storied Burgundy wine region.
So being French, they of course have a fête to celebrate it. Several actually, but the biggest one of the year took place this month: the Fêtes des Grand Vins de Bourgogne, with the most important wine auction in the world as its centerpiece. And the French really know how to throw a party.
The last few years we’ve been in Charleston for the month of November, so somehow I’ve never made it to the festival, much to my chagrin (we were in Beaune November last year, but it was basically cancelled). So we’ve had to rely on reports from friends this year, when it was back in full swing.
In our early days of living in France, Ron went to the festival once, with his buddies. They made a bee-line for the giant Burgundy wine-tasting in the conference center here that is a part of the festivities. There were 1500 wines on offer—all from Burgundy! It was early on in our French séjour, and these débutant (beginner) wine aficionados couldn’t resist finishing their delicious tasting pours, instead of spitting, as is proper—and ended up quitting after the first three booths, too tipsy to tipple. And this year, over a decade later, there were 3000 Burgundy wines.
The festival is a busy one: a folklore parade, street shows, themed wine tastings all over Beaune and throughout the region, music, and gala dinners. There is a half marathon that snakes through the vineyards, a light-hearted race with many runners in costume. Wine is offered along the route, bien sûr, so only fearless runners need apply.
The main attraction is the wine auction, the 161st annual Vente des Vins des Hospices de Beaune, said to be the oldest charity in the world. The bidders and wine insiders are fêted at the Clos de Vougeot and the Château de Meursault, at a week-end long feast called Les Trois Glorieuses, or The Three Days of Glory (you and I, as mere mortals, are not invited). Visitors can watch the bidders spend the big bucks, though.
You can see why we hated to miss it. See you there next year?
Some happy moments from the parade routes:
At the Auction:
Costumed up for the half Marathon:
Photo credits: Le Bien Public, Club Oenologique, Confédération des Appellations et des Vignerons de Bourgogne, The Guardian
Hope everyone had a happy Thanksgiving!
In the COMMENTS: I see I am not alone in my distress over the noise level in restaurants! As Michaela says, I hope they will get the message. I make it a habit of telling the manager each time. And as Christine and others note, loud music in piped into the grocery store, even onto city streets sometimes. Jay, I can't speak to the noise level in Paris, I haven't been there in a while. But Paris has a population of 2 million and has about 30 million visitors a year, so I'm guessing the noise there is not caused completely by the French. In Burgundy where we live, I can't ever remember encountering a truly noisy restaurant, other than perhaps at a huge brasserie in Lyon.
Read the comments further to see the music most of you voted on. And don't miss Natalia's recommendations for some great French magazines. Plus Martin has a funny story to share about restaurant music.
