April in Beaune has been quite chilly. In fact, the vines are in danger again, after the hardest April freeze since 1947! it’s warmer now, but not quite spring weather, so it's time for une promenade, followed by soup to warm things up.
I’ve been working on perfecting my butternut squash soup for years, and recently I found a tip from Thomas Keller of the French Laundry that gave it that je ne sais quoi that took it to the next level. He swirls a bit of browned butter into his version at the last minute. Oh la la!
But first, on va flâner, we’re going to amble, wander, and loiter a bit. We love being at the heart of a medieval city, and I never venture out without my phone tucked in my back pocket, to capture the details. On y va--we're off!
Just around the corner, a little park forms a shortcut between two rues.
In a park along the Boulevard, which is the circular road around the walled city, an imposing statue
A grand round tower forms part of the ramparts.
Hot air balloons are a common sight in Beaune, skimming over the rooftoops and the vines.
Carved details on a very old building. This guy reminds me of a Charleston alligator.
A charming little tower beckons you to mount the ramparts
Just a small fun detail, set into the side of a house
Two mansions and a 16th century courtyard were blended to form The Hotel Cep
Children dance on the market square
An in-town wine château, with one of the colorful tile roofs common in the area
Msr. Etienne Jules Marey, a famous physiologist and chronophotographer, forever in repose by la bibliothèque
A charming cottage, high up on the ramparts
A boot scraper, by an old door, is a thing of beauty
The moody river La Bouzaize, across from the Wine School near our house
And now for lunch...
RECIPE: Roasted Butternut Squash Soup Extraordinaire
After I cook this, I taste it and add more spices if needed. Add a bit of cardamon and/or fresh grated ginger, too, if you like. I sometimes throw a few carrots on the roasting pan, if my squash is small.
1 large butternut squash, cut into large chunks, seeds removed (but not peeled)
1 large onion, peeled and quartered
1 pear or apple, cored and quartered
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon curry powder
dash of cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon brown sugar or maple syrup, more to taste
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup wine (optional)
1 14 oz can coconut milk, more to taste
a generous splash of brandy
1/2 stick of butter
chives and sour cream to garnish
Pre-heat oven to 425. Place squash on a sheet pan and toss with olive oil (I put a silpat on the sheet pan). Spread pieces out so they do not touch. Add onions and fruit.
Roast until squash is soft and edges begin to brown, 40 minutes to an hour. Cool.
Using a large spoon, scoop squash out and discard peels. Add to a soup pot with the roasted onion and fruit. Add the orange juice and wine, if using. Add water just to cover. Stir in spices and the brown sugar or syrup. Bring to boil, then reduce to simmer and cover. Cook 45 minutes or so, until everything is really soft.
Add coconut milk and blend with immersion blender until smooth. Taste to correct seasoning. If soup is too thick, add more coconut milk, or regular milk.
Just before serving, reheat and stir in brandy. Ladle into bowls and top with a swirl of brown butter, a dollop of sour cream, and chives.
For the brown butter: melt butter in a small, wide saucepan over medium to medium low heat. Swirl it around, it will begin to bubble. When it begins to smell nutty and turns a light golden brown, remove from heat. Watch it closely, it can burn easily—let your nose be your guide. It only takes two or three minutes, total, so man your post.
In the COMMENTS: Aryn we look forward to seeing you this summer (Aryn Has an amazing story to tell, which she will share in an upcoming post). Anne, an Ambush Adoption is a new term for me, and I love it! And speaking of cats, our loyal reader Suzanne has her own French cream puff who is an Internet sensation. Check out her blog, Living with Loulou, written by her famous Cat. Bonnie, please post those pictures on your blog! You can find Bonnie’s blog at Chez Bon- My Provence Life. She also sells beautiful French vintage items on her Etsy site. And if you haven't checked out Susan Vieth's blog, A Small Village in France lately, you are in for a French treat, as her last few posts have been especially charming. And speaking of cats and dogs, visit with Kristi at French Word A day if you haven't lately, and learn about her pup with an excellent "nose", just like her husband.
Favorite READS: Lots of books to recommend this week. Anne is reading a WWII novel called The Rose Code, by Kate Quinn. And on the subject of war, my walking buddies Suzanne and Rita rave about the thriller Dead Wake: The Last Crossing of the Lusitania; and our reader Suzanne recommends Villa Air-Bel: World War II, Escape, and a House in Marseille . By the way, Suzanne has her own book out, a cookbook called No Need to Knead: Handmade Artisan Breads in 90 minutes. And if you're looking for a French read, Natalia loves author Cara Black, and has just finished her latest, Murder at the Port de Versailles.
