It's simple, really; every year France throws itself a big party, on June 21, on or near the the summer solstice. Everywhere in the country, on the same night. In towns large and small.
It's called La Fête de la Musique. And if you have one in a town in your country, you can thank the French; they started this party, in 1982, and it's spread to various places around the world. There is music on every street corner, on bistro terraces, in every Place. Rock, jazz, folk, new age, whatever your genre, you'll hear it here. There's not a lot of planning involved, because there a twist to this music festival: It's amateur night, and the musicians are all playing free of charge, on any spot they can grab. Every school band, every gray-haired, pony-tailed aging hippie reliving their garage band days, every hopeful busker, they all turn out to showcase their talent--or, cheerfully, their lack thereof. A few professionals show up, but they are outnumbered by the wannabees.
Now you may think that with music on every corner, there would be a cacaphony of competing sounds and beats. You would be right. And at least in the smaller towns (even sophisticated Beaune), there is one word to describe most of the music: awful. But the enthusiam is delightful.
Everybody, young and old, spills out onto the streets in the evening. In the squares there will be children frolicking, a few dancers showing off their moves, and crowds clapping appreciatively, no matter how painful the missed notes. The streets are completely packed, with the masses wandering from venue to venue, some stopping to grab a table at the packed cafes. We've been to many of these affairs over the years, but never in a big city, where I'm sure it's a bit more polished and organized. I read that this year in Paris, for example, it was female musicians only in the Jardin de Luxembourg.
But fine music is not the point of this fête. It's a big happy party, free and open to all, and the small town beat is the one we want to dance to.
In the COMMENTS: Julie, a caretaker type person is crucial, that’s surprising it’s so difficult. And good luck with the visa process. Chris, month-long trips sound pretty great, and yes it would take a lifetime to see all of beautiful France. Paula, so often, grandkids change everything! Jane, French landlords must like expats, never known any of them to have that problem (they think all Americans are rich, ha!). We changed our marriage regime as well, but I think the rules have changed. Cynthia, I’ve never heard of the rental problem you mention either—but the laws slanted toward tenants have unexpected consequences for sure. Christophe, you are right about word-of-moth, and it’s always good to ask the local notaire as well. Dan, such insightful thoughts, and yes it’s hard to get your head around: the US has 50 states with different laws, while France has only one. Francine, you can buy into the French health care system (under certain conditions), or you can buy a private policy to cover you in France. Yes, residents must file and pay taxes in the US and France, but you get credits for what you paid in France.
Favorite READS: Natalia loved The Paris Daughter, by Kristin Harmel. And my friend Rudy raves about France, An Adventure History, if you want to brush up on your history, in a unique way.
And this week, an (occasional) new feature, Be Kind to Your Fellow Animals, because, well, I love animals. Today's tip: please think about the plastic and trash you throw away. Birds and fish get heads and beaks and other body parts caught up in plastics, and in those mesh bags that avocados and onions come in. Please tie a knot or two in any bag you throw away. Worst offenders: those flexible plastic rings that hold cans of soda: please take a minute to cut through each one. Also cone shaped yogurt containers (like Youplait) are a problem; birds stick their heads in and can't back out, so make a few cuts in them (or buy another brand). Small plastic rings,too, can be torture. Merci for thinking ahead when you throw plastic out.
If you don't do these things, here's what happens:
