I am a total misfit in my immediate family. My family is what you would call sportif, in French. But that's an understatement. My eldest stepdaughter is at the top of the heap, she’s an internationally rated triathlete. Our small group is also into cycling, windsurfing, kiteboarding, sailing, rock climbing, hang gliding--the list goes on. Just this month, for example, my adventurous granddaughter has been sky-diving from a helicopter, bungee jumping, cliff diving, spelunking, and white water rafting. Meanwhile, my idea of a perfect day is a nice stroll, a luxury hotel, and a decadent lunch, ideally followed by a nap.
So when our daughter and granddaughter came to visit this month, they decided they might like to ride their bikes from our house in Beaune down to Marseilles. This, by the way, is about 500 km. So Ron, our younger daughter and I signed up to be the voiture-balai, known in English as the broom car or the sag-wagon. Since these two cyclistes extraordinaires never sagged or needed sweeping up, basically we were luggage schleppers. Amazingly they got up at 6 a.m. and were done by lunchtime every day, so we had plenty of time to sightsee together.
Which gives me an excuse to give you a mini tour of Aix-en-Provence, a two-day stop on our trip. We have visited there a gazillion times, and it’s always a treat.
Aix (pronounced, “X”), is a big American and British destination, ever since it was popularized by Peter Mayle’s first book, A Year in Provence. He loved to sit and people-watch at the bistro Les Deux Garcons. We did too until it went up in flames a couple of years ago, and they are still in the process of rebuilding it. We look forward to seeing its next incarnation.
Aix is famous for having the most beautiful main street in Europe, Le Cours Mirabeau, which has a series of roundabouts with stunning fountains. It’s a lively town because there’s a university there, plus plenty of tourists of course. Aix is the former capital of Provence, and has a long and rich history.
The luxury hotel of my dreams is in Aix, but this being a sporty trip, we stayed at a much more reasonable and practical spot.
We did discover a classy joint which is my favorite new restaurant in Aix, at the Hotel de Caumont. It’s not actually a hotel, it’s a decorative arts museum with rotating art exhibits that you can tour, and it has beautiful formal gardens. You can lunch in the jardin in their gorgeous enclosed courtyard with a divine salad, and pretend that you are one of those elegant French elites who summers in the sunny Luberon. It was here we chose to take our official team photo.
So what does one do in Aix besides eat very well? Here are a few items from my list.
— people-watch at a bistro on Cours Mirabeau with an Aperol spritz in hand.
— get lost in the narrow winding streets, where you can shop in the tantalizing boutiques and gaze at the lovely architecture.
— check out Cézanne's Atelier, and then take the marked pedestrian walk that takes you to his hang-outs.
--there are a number of museums, and there is a market or brocante somewhere every day in Aix.
If you go: if you are feeling flush, book at the five-star Villa Gallici (a Relais and Château) and pamper yourself to the max. This time we stayed at a three-star hotel, L'Hotel de Concorde. Well located and pleasant. We’ve also stayed at the Best Western (quatre étoiles), which is right off the main street.
Favorite READS: if you would like to experience Provence virtually, I recommend A Year in Provence or any of Peter Mayle's other books, and the fun movie, A Good Year. Readers, I'm sure you have more ideas.
I am a fan of the "cozy" or romantic mystery genres--interesting characters, a sense of place, and very little blood (think author Mary Stewart, or Midsommer or Inspector Lewis, on TV). My latest read, The Paris Mystery by Kristy Manning, is just what this book is, and it's an entertaining one, too.
We have some good book recommendations from readers as well. Natalia likes Nina George's The Little Villlage of Booklovers. Paula suggests The Retreat, by Sara Pearse, a mystery; and The Gown, by Jennifer Robson, a historical novel. Merci, keep those ideas coming!
