Southern Fried French

Crossing the Pond, and Leaving the Virus Behind

Thinking of doing some international travel in the near future? I hope not. But if you are, or are just curious, here is an account of our trip to France last week. With cat in hand, of course. We came back to France as soon as we could escape because (a we live here and  (b South Carolina has descended into Virus Hell, as red states will do.

We decided to drive to Atlanta so we’d only have the one flight to Paris. Vino the Bambino, who normally sheds hardly at all, squirmed around and started emitting huge clouds of cat hair that floated all over the car. Maybe it was an anxiety thing. When we turned the rental car in we slinked away, hoping they wouldn’t notice that the entire interior was covered with a fine layer of gray and white fur.

We were nervous about the flight, so I made Ron promise that the second we went into the airport and throughout the whole flight we would wear are not only a mask but also a shield. Causing us to look like complete aliens, or at least serious nerds.The number of travelers we saw similarly attired? That would be zero. But we were determined to survive the trip, virus free. I turned down all plane food and drink and nixed the restroom too. Nothing was getting through my barrier!

I wish, by the way, that shields were is effective as masks (by some reports, they are better). They do protect your eyes from droplets, which is also important, but they don’t form a tight seal at the bottom. Still, they have several advantages. First of all you can see people's facial expressions and hear them talk. And second, a shield is very comfortable to wear, you quickly forget you have it on. But they have not caught on yet. I have a very chic friend who just ordered a stylish hat with a built-in shield, so maybe they will soon be on-trend.

But wearing a mask with a filter AND a shield together is a different matter. We got used to not breathing much, but the main problem was we literally could not talk to each other. Even shouting in each other's ears didn’t work, andresulted in a shield-bump. We finally gave up and resorted to sign language and texting each other.

There was plenty of space on our Delta flight. For a plane that normally packs in 230 souls, there were maybe 50 of us.  Ron and I  each had a window seat (said to be the safest) and an aisle seat. But it was nearly empty of course because no one is letting Americans into Europe unless they are residents. Americans are the new virus pariahs. I don’t think we can even get into China. The irony gods have attacked us.

And post-flight, we have a few more days of "la confinement" chez nous, voluntary here but recommended. We're coping well, but the cat is starting to fuss.

So if you’re going on a flight anytime soon, know that we stand with you if you want to do the nerd thing. It’s all about getting there safely. Or go in style with the hat/shield combo (see below) and you will be, as the French say, BCBG (bon chic bon genre: chic in a classy and traditional way). Bon voyage and bon courage!  

 

In the COMMENTS: Anne, so interesting you've had the same experience with the Runes. Cindy, I'm glad you were inspired. And speaking of inspiration, check out Cindy's website, The Artisanal List, "For People Who Love Old Houses" (and more).

Natalia, I understand your concerns, but I see the Runes, which are not tied to any particular religion, as addressing our inner spirituality, no matter what our religious beliefs.  And I sure am hoping everyone who wants to get to France can do so soon.

 

Favorite READS: Continuing with our Black Lives Matter books, by email Marsha recommends Between the World and Me by Ta-Nehisi Coates. Our reader Diane has for years been a member of the Abbott Institute, championing race unity and social justice. At their site, scroll to the bottom of the "About" section for a comprehensive reading list. Carrie has some good recommendations in the Comments. And when you need a break from the heavy stuff, dip into a novel recommended by my friend Sandi,  Her Royal Spyness by Rhys Bowen. She gently skewers the British royals with great wit.

 

I do a bit of volunteer work for the Charleston Animal Society, a wonderful organization and shelter. they asked me to write an article about quarantining with my cat while I had the virus. Cat lovers can read it here, on page 10.

 

 

 

Reaching Reims, at Last

When you've lived in France for 13 years, folks kind of expect that you've been around to all the major towns in France.  But there is so much to see! All of France, not to mention all of Europe, to cover.  And we tend to revisit places we love, all of which means my knowledge of a lot of French cities is pretty pathetic.

"You DO know Nancy, don't you?", the French will ask us. "You HAVE been to Lille of course?  And you can't have missed the cathedral at Reims?"

Non, non, and oui.  So I was very happy to check one at least one of these off my list recently, while we were in the Champagne region.

Ron claims to have cathedral fatigue, he has seen one too many of them in our European travels.  But even he found Notre-Dame de Reims to be exceptional. It's special because so many of the kings and queens of France were coronated here. And for other reasons, as you will see.

Reims (pronounce it 'rance', unless you want to be terribly gauche), is centered around the cathedral. The first thing that sets it apart is, it's enormous. And every inch of the exterior is carved and ornate.

Before you go in you must of course look for the Smiling Angel (above), the muse of Reims. There were many angels and we were scratching our heads over this when a friendly guard wandered up and pointed her out. She does indeed have a cheerful and slightly enigmatic smile, and her giant visage looks down on you kindly.

Inside, it has the usual reverent elegance of a French cathedral, only bigger. But they've done something very interesting and very French, as the French have no fear of mixing the ultra modern with the ancient (SEE the pyramid at the Louvre). In the rear nave, they've replaced the towering stained glass windows, destroyed when the cathedral was bombed in WWI, with unabashedly modern stained glass by artists Marc Chagall, Imi Knoebel, and Brigitte Simon-Marq.  The effect is spectacular.

The museum next door showcases some of the robes and finery of the royalty who began their reign with a march under the hallowed arches.

After your tour you'll be feeling virtuous, so reward yourself with lunch and wine at on one of Reims's lively restaurant rues. We discovered L'Apostrophe, which was stylish and different.

So my French city list has gotten shorter, but my "beautiful villages" list just keeps growing!

 

Photo right: an artistic, and modern, stained glass window. This one is by Knoebel. Learn more about them here.

 

Below:  The cathedral, outside and in. 

And one aside:  In Reims we encountered the world's smallest library.  The sign said, borrow a book and bring it back, or add a new one. Bonne idée!

And speaking of books:  our loyal reader Natalia won Emily Dilling's My Paris Market Cookbook: A Culinary Tour of French Flavors and Seasonal Recipes  in our book giveaway, in conjunction with Emily's guest post. (I've just ordered a couple of copies for Christmas presents). Natalia promised to pick a favorite recipe to share, and this week she did just that.  I've had similar gratins at French tables many times, they are popular there, and delicious. A big fat MERCI to both Natalia and Emily!

RECIPE: Golden Swiss Chard Gratin (Gratin de Blettes)

Emily says: "This is a simple and nourishing autumn dinner, easy to prepare after work and a great way to use the ubiquitous Swiss chard that arrives with the chang­ing of the leaves. Bake until golden and bring a little autumn sunshine into your evening!"

Ingredients

Serves 4

4–5 stalks, Swiss chard, chopped

1 cup Béchamel sauce (medium-thick white sauce)

1 cup (120 grams) grated Gruyère

Salt and pepper

Preparation

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Wash and dry each stalk of Swiss chard. Remove the ends of Swiss chard stalks if dirty and then chop each stalk into thirds. Arrange Swiss chard in a large baking dish. Pour béchamel sauce over the Swiss chard. Top with grated Gruyère, salt, and pepper and bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown.

 

In the COMMENTS:  VERY interesting comments this week from our readers, on the election. I’m reminded, by comments from Julie and others, that living in a foreign country gives you a fresh and global perspective that you might not otherwise develop. In my husband’s ideal world, everyone would be required to live a year in a foreign country, to get out of their box!

Ken, I love your timely quote. No matter who you’re supporting, I think we can all agree that election fatigue has set in, and this election has been, as Herm says, a “vicious race”. We are all longing for the “respect and compromise” that’s been lost, as Suzanne discusses, and Michaela already misses the “civil tone at the top”.

Mark and Mel, Lady Liberty was spotted on the right bank at the base of the Trocadero. Michaela, felicitations, at having wine from your own vineyard sitting on the best of tables, at the Obama state dinner! We are dead impressed.