Southern Fried French

Here Are My Favorite French Expressions--What Are Yours?

We have some French expressions that might surprise you..like this French road sign

Do you have a favorite French expression, in that language full of colorful expressions?

Ron and I don’t speak French to each other, but there are a few common French expressions that now pepper our English because they're' better than the English version, or don’t have an English equivalent. The ones that come immediately to mind are voila, oh la la, bon courage, en principe, faire dodo (to take a little nap), c’est normal (that’s no surprise), and santé (to your health), for a toast.

The ones I really love though, are the quirky ones. There are a gazillion idioms related to food, of course, in French. But I can’t begin to cover them all here. Example: tomber dans les pommes (literally, to fall in the apples, but it means to faint).

Not sure why fainting involves apples...

So here are a few unique expressions that I love. I hope you have some to share too!

 

metro boulot dodo: this is their rhyming way of saying “the rat race”, or “working to live”. You take the metro to work (boulot) then you sleep (dodo is a little baby nap), then you do it all again.

 

chic-ouf! I love this one, which my French friend Betty taught me recently. Its purpose it to express the feeling when long-staying out of town guests arrive and depart: Yay, our company has arrived! Yay, they've finally departed! In this case chic means great, or super (though it can also mean stylish), and ouf is how the French say, phew!

 

Belle mère, beau frère, etc.  Put beau or belle in front of a relative, and it makes them a step-relative, or an in-law.  How nice, instead of being the wicked step-mother, to be the beautfiful-mother!

 

èpoustouflant! The first time our châtelin Pierre wowed me with this long, amazing word, I started laughing. Whatever could it mean? Well, it means sort of what it sounds like: flabberghasting, breath-taking.

This real-live tree, in Chagny near Beaune, is pretty époustouflant

 

Cinq à sept: the hours 5 to 7, the "cinq à sept" in Canadian French are what they seem: happy hour. But In France  it’s a different kind of happy hour: cinq à sept means the time right after work that you have a romantic tryst with your lover.

This photo I took at a French flea market sort of captures the spirit of the cinq à sept

 

bisous: this cute little word means a kiss. It was useful during Covid, when you couldn’t do the cheek smooches as a greeting, so one just sort of leaned in and said, bisous!  The word is cute enough that we have friends who named their little dog Bisous.

A French greeting card, sealed with a kiss

 Now how about you? Do you have a favorite French expression to share?

 

In the COMMENTS: Anne-Marie, glad to hear you've stayed at St. Sabine, we've only just visited. Page, there is nothing more fun than happening across one of the great French village fêtes. I love to see them cook the old way, in those bread ovens that some villages still have. Bonnie and Suzanne, you've been to some of the modern guingettes--we have been to only one, that was on a barge on the banks of the Rhône in Lyon. Great fun.

 

Favorite READS & VIEWS: Natalia, who always has something wonderfully French for us, suggests  a beautiful book worthy of display on your table basse, called Extraordinary Collections: French Interiors Flea Markets, and Ateliers. I can't wait to get my hands on a copy of this one. Madeline suggests watching Astrid on PBS Passport. In French with subtitles, it looks like a unique sort of crime drama, and I look forward to checking this one out. Speaking of crime, I'm reading The Last Devil to Die, another one of the Thursday Murder Club series. Hard to belive a mystery can be so funny!

 

What in the World is a Guinguette?

Dining by the water, guignuette style

Early on when I first met our beloved châtelaine, Nicole, she told me a story about her long-ago youth, about a tradition très charmant that is uniquely French. It began in the early 18th century but faded away in the mid-20th.

Every summer, she said, little rustic cabarets would spring up on the  banks of the rivers (you are never far from a river in France). On sultry summer nights, you would put on your Sunday best: flowered dresses and pumps for les femmes, suspenders and bow ties and straw hats for les hommes.  And you would dine and dance the night away in the moonlight by the water. It was a bal-musette, which is a fête consisting of folk dances done to accordion music.

This was a sort of outdoor pop-up night club, and the clubs were called guinguettes (say 'gang-get' fast, and you'll be close). Renoir (above photo) and Van Gogh both captured guinguette moments in their paintings. The French are nostalgic for these halcyon days, and nowadays on riverbanks in the cities you will often find brasseries styled in the romantic guinguette fashion.  

Van Gogh's painting, "La Guinguette"

This past summer we were invited by French friends to a real live guinguette, a pop-up pique nique and bal-musette by the river at the Château Sainte Sabine. 

Ron donned a straw hat and a tie (we couldn't find suspenders), I put on a summer frock and off we went on our guinguette adventure,  to immerse ourselves in some serious French nostalgie.

Ron in guinguette mode, American version

Our friend Christophe rocking the look

 

Our group set up for the pique nique

 

Hay bales added to the rural atmosphere

 

It was quite a band!

 

If by chance you forgot your hat, they provided them

 

Old and young got into the dancing

The river was nearby

 

And of course there was ice cream

 

By the way, here is the chàteau where it all took place

 

I hope they will do it again next year. See you there?

In the COMMENTS: Laura, what a story about your wine tour. That's what I like about visiting wineries, you never know what you will find. We haven't been there, putting it on our list. Ellen, bisous to ma belle, the beautiful Belle Ly. Natalia, a traveling cat is indeed pénible, but it's so nice to be together, as you say.

 

Favorite READS and VIEWS: Natalia's recommendation this week is a page-turner: The Women, by Kristin Hannah, about the brave nurses who served in Vietnam.

And if you need something fun to watch, I have ideas this week! All in French, all sub-titled and great for practicing your French (if you can listen and read at the same time! I still lean on those sub-titles a bit). At the theaters, we enjoyed The Taste of Things, a visually lush culinary romance. And if you're a foodie, do not miss the documentary Menu-Plaisir, les Troisgros. For four hours they follow a very famous French chef with three restaurants, one of which is a 3-star (we've been to two, which we can recommend).  It's streaming on PBS. We are also really loving  a series called Murder in... (in France, it's Crime En...). Each self-contained episode (with different actors) is a romance/mystery set in some beautiful locale in France. There are several seasons, so you get a real tour of the country! It's on MHZ.

 

A Visible Soul

We have, and I do not necessarily recommend this, a Traveling Cat.When we travel to the States, Vino goes with us, in the cabin; see the picture at the top  and you get the idea. 

But we hate to leave him behind. Jean Cocteau, the famous French writer and artist, put it this way: "I love cats because I enjoy my home; and little by little, they become its visible soul."

I'm an animal lover (especially les chats) and most every year I do a post on French cats and dogs, with photos I've collected over the year.

Let's get started this year with a shot of The Favorite Cat: Vino Bambino, our own "visible soul". Vino is the perfect example of this quote, from Bill Dana: "I had been told that the training procedure for cats was difficult. It's not. Mine had me trained in two days".

We live in a 4th floor apartment in Beaune, where Vino has arranged his  own concierge services: after he tires of playing in the building's large courtyard, if we don't show up to fetch him in a timely manner, he's trained all the residents to let him in the lobby as they arrive and plop him into the stairway, where he mounts the stairs to our front door.

Vino Bambino, helping with a puzzle

 

Next up: we were lunching outiside one day in Nice across from an atelier d antiquaire, with a cat in the window who could give GrumpyCat a run for his money. Everyone who went by had to stop and coo over him. He was unmoved.

 

And speaking of grumpy, this cat was spotted in a village in Provence one morning, clearly displeased that he was made to wait at the door.

 

Midnight cat: We were leaving a friend's house near Beaune when we spotted this feline, with amazing eyes.

 

Can you find the cats in these two photos?

I see this cat almost daily, in Beaune

(here is his close-up)

 

We've featured our friends' cat Belle-lie before, a drama queen who loves the camera. She looks stylishly French and she knows it.

Speaking of bellies...

 

I spotted this boot scraper at a house in Vézelay, then peeked in the front door...

...and found the boot scraper's inspiration

 

I also spotted this fun greeting card, the perfect picture of a French feline gourmand:

 

Now let's go to the dogs: we will start with a  Dave Barry quote, that speaks to their appeal. “You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you a look that says, ‘Wow, you’re right! I never would’ve thought of that!’” 

 

In a Lyon brasserie, a puffball on a string.

 

Gotta love this Chalon-sur Sâone chien--in the driver's seat at last!

 

In the COMMENTS: Virginia, Kathie, Christine, and Francine have all been to Les Baux, and they have more good tips for you if you go. And by the way, our reader Kathie is a fiber artist who does amazing work, which you can see here.

Favorite READS: Jean has a good site for us where you can read French stories, called French Tale Troop. You may not be familiar with Natalia's recommendation this week, called Wine and War: T he French, the Nazis and the battle for France's Greatest Treasure. But it's a book most expats we know have passed around, and as she says, it will hold your attention. Christine says, if you love the cozy mysteries of Louise Penny, you'll also love the Donna Leon’s series about the inspector Brunetti in Venice. Francine is reading My Antonio by Willa Cather, and that French classic, Le Petit Prince. Ron just finished The Day the World Came to Town, the heart warming story of what happened on 9/11 when 7000 airline passengers landed in a small Newfoundland town.

If You Go to Provence, You MUST Go Here

Brrr. Over here, we've got the mid-winter drearies.  Must be time to plan that wonderful trip you've been dreaming of! And if by chance that dream includes the warm and  sunny South of France, I have to tell you about a place you simply must go. 

The ancient, perched village of Les-Baux-de-Provence is a beautiful destination on its own, one of the loveliest villages in France. But it also has the most unique and heart-stopping art show we've ever seen. It's an immersive digital art and sound experience called the Carrières des Lumières. (the "quarry of lights").

 

Below: the village of Les Baux, and the views from the top.

 

Les Baux is a town built from the  limestone mined in its quarries. (The quarries were closed in 1935, and became a cultural space in 1975). As a result, they have some extraordinary caves, drilled into the side of a mountain. It's hard to describe the massive scope of these stone caves; let's just say you could fit a Costco or two inside, except with much taller ceilings. And inside these caves, on the walls, ceilings and floors, they have projected art, accompanied by music that fills the space. It's like being inside a giant painting, in the middle of an orchestra or a concert. A few of the paintings have even been animated a bit; a cherub takes flight, or a reveler unexpectedly raises his glass.

 

 

 

There are different artists featured each year. This past year we went to a show called "Vermeer to Van Gogh, the Dutch Masters". Imagine being surrounded by Vermeers that are 3 stories tall and you start to get the picture. They artworks are constantly shifting, changing, fading, like a moving gallery. You are surrounded by beautiful music. It's art like you haven't experienced it before. Bonus: in the hottest summer months, it's nice and cool inside!

 

 

 

IF YOU GO:  For the show, you can find info on schedules and tickets here. 

We didn't stay in Les Baux, we stayed nearby, but I can tell you where to stay if you want to really splash out, and you can dine at their Michelin 3 star resto as well: Baumanière. It's fabulous and it's on my dream hotel list. 

Where to eat: It's a tourist town, and the small village is full of cute bistros, many of them perilously hanging off the side of the cliff, with great views of the valley below.

 

Baumanière, a dreamy hotel

 

In the COMMENTS: Since our last post was on books, we have lots of FAVORITE READS today, from our readers who checked in. Christine is re-reading My Antonio by Willa Cather, which I've never read so it's first on my list. She also likes The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese, and The Dictionary of Lost Words, a novel by Pip Williams. Christine introduced me to the children's book writer Robert McClosky. Susan has a novel set in France, Jacqueline in Paris by Ann Mah. Lisa has another one with a French Connection, which she calls a "page turner": Red Stream, a wine thriller by Paul Tracy. Jo Anne sent us  a bunch of French jewels: Paris Café, The Select Crowd, by Noel Riley Fitch; Les Petites Filles de Monsieur Linh, by Phillippe Claudel; Le Chapeau de Mittterand, by Antoine Lorraine (English edition, "The President's Hat"); and of course that wonderful classic, Le Petit Prince, by Antoine St. Exupèry. Several  of you have recommended the books of Louise Penny in the past, which I finally got around to picking up, and zipped through two of them--so good! Set in Quebec, but with a liberal sprinkling of French expressions. Many thanks for all the ideas. As Alix commented: "Books are my soul!".

 

 

 

Les Livres, the Ones That Lead Us Forward

 

Books! A love of many who read this blog. And ’tis the season—to give them, receive them, and just maybe, after the last present is open and dinner is over and the family has departed, to spend some of that precious Christmas vacation actually reading them.

Usually for my first post of the year, I like to share some inspirational quotes, many with some kind of French connection,  to get our resolutions flowing. This year I’ve decided to share some of the books that have inspired me over the years—with the hope that some of you will share yours as well.

A display at Charleston's favorite book store, Buxton Books

Earliest book memories? These would include two that were my first brush with France: the Madeline and  the Babar series. 

There are just too many books that touch the heart and soul to mention. But If I had to pick just one in the tug-at-your-heartstrings category, I’d go with French author Jean-Dominique Bauby, who wrote The Diving Bell and the Butterfly.

But the ones I remember most are of  practical variety, as I am that kind of girl. Books that helped to change the course of life and career.

When I was a poor grad student at age 23, I picked up an obscure hippie tome in the library, called The People’s Guide to Country Real Estate (buying a house with nothing down was the theme). Following their instructions exactly, I bought my first house at 24, and ending up renovating a dozen more, over the years.  This sideline was actually my most lucrative “job”, and my passion.

This book is now an antique.

 When I later wanted to change careers, I wore out my copy of What Color is Your Parachute, remember that one? And my inspiration to travel partially came from reading Mary Stewart’s mystery novels, all set in different exotic locations that she made come alive with her lush descriptions.

The original, of many editions

 

This one is set in Greece

Then on to le troisième âge, retirement age. Peter Mayle and Frances Mayes sold us on the great European lifestyle. Two books,  The Grown-ups Guide to Running Away from Home, and another "Grown-ups" edition about moving to France; plus a little memoir called At Home in France, helped give us courage to make that  move abroad.

We even visited the village where the author bought a house (sadly she died before the book was published).

 

There are lots more, bien sûr, but I would like to hear from you. What books reset your compass, or spoke to your heart, what books linger on the memory? It’s a new year, time for new beginnings, and a great new book!

 

PS: Speaking of being inspired, some beautiful writing I’ve encountered lately was by Roger Rosenblatt, who wrote an article called This Year, Make A Resolution About Something Bigger Than Yourself. He suggests forgoing the short-lived self-care ones (losing  weight, etc.) and instead resolving to help others in some way. If you can’t read the article (there may be a firewall), then here is a lovely quote from the article, with great thoughts for a new year, by Walt Whitman:

“This is what you shall do: Love the earth and sun and the animals, despise riches, give alms to everyone who asks, stand up for the stupid and crazy. Re-examine all you have been told at school or church or in any book, dismiss whatever insults your own soul, and your very flesh shall be a great poem.’’

On that perfect note, happy new year!

In the COMMENTS : a discussion on books would not be complete without Natalia‘s recommendation. And a French one at that: The Complete Book of French Cooking by Delorme and Boue. Francine has more to tell us about French holiday traditions, as well as a recipe in her cookbook. Colleen, I agree, giving away most of the cookies is best! Anne, thanks for the kind words and for filling us in on butties, all new to me.

 

Photo at top, courtesy of Etsy

The Language of Christmas Cookies

I'm no expert, but among my friends in southern Burgundy I am known as the "Le Cookie Queen". It's an American thing, we like to make cookies. I'm forever bringing them to parties and potlucks.

So, Merry Christmas y'all, and it's time to make cookies!  This year the Christmas rush seems to have come early, at least chez nous, so we are offering up a quick Christmas cookie recipe.

There are French cookies loosely associated with Christmas, but the French don't have a strong Christmas cookie tradition like we do. We could make some fancy French macarons, or madelines, or palmiers, if we had the time and the skill. But folks, we've got presents to wrap and trees to decorate. Let's save those for a cold January day when we have time on our hands. I've got an easier fix for you.

But first, a French cookie vocabulary lesson. Hang on to your chapeau, it's a bit of a journey.

un biscuit: this is NOT a biscuit as we know it. It is a cookie, but also can be a cracker; sweet or savory. 

un gâteau: for some reason they often use this word for cookie as well, even though it also refers to what we would call a cake.

(And speaking of that, the french word cake, is what we would call a quick bread, cooked in a loaf pan, and is often savory. Here is my recipe for Smoked Salmon Cake.)

un cookie: the French use this American word for cookie sometimes as well.

un sablé: a butter/shortbread French cookie, often almond flavored. Theirs are a little thicker than our sugar cookies, and usually large and round with fluted edges. They are not overly sweet, and not iced. And very delicious! You will see them in patisseries and boulangeries. They sometimes have mini-chocolate chips in them, and pass for the French version of a chocolate chip cookie. (I posted about sablés the last holiday season). Sometimes these are called galettes, but that gets into regional and linguistic differences that are way too lengthy for this blog. 

galettes, sablés....

So, now that we've got that straight, let's get cooking.

If I'm in a hurry and want to make some fabulous cookies, I make these 5-ingredient ones, from a recipe I got off the Baker's chocolate package a few decades ago. Since they have little red hats on them, we are going to call them Christmas cookies. (The French make wonderful coconut macaroons, which they call rochers à la noix de coco, but I've never seen chocolate ones). You are going to thank me if you serve these to guests, they are quite special and they take all of 20 minutes to make, and half of that time you can spend reading your book. Joyeux Noel to all, and I hope you'll get into your kitchen with some good Christmas music and your beloveds, and share the cookie-making love!

 

RECIPE: Chocolate Coconut Macaroons

NOTE: It's hard to find sweetened coconut in France. Unsweetened works fine, but you might want to change the chocolate to semi-sweet.

Pre-heat oven to 350

Ingredients:

1 can condensed milk, 14 oz. (395 grams)

3 oz (85 gr) unsweetened chocolate

1/4 t. salt

8 oz. (225 gr) shredded sweetened coconut

maraschino cherries. about 6, cut into quarters

Put condensed milk, chocolate, and salt in the top of a double boiler or stainless steel bowl, over low heat. Stir occasionally, until chocolate is fully melted. Remove from heat and stir in coconut until you can no longer see any white. Spoon mixture onto a baking sheet (with Silpat or parchment paper), about 1 tablespoon per cookie. Top each with a piece of cherry. Bake for 10 minutes. You may be tempted to bake them longer; you should resist. Remove to a rack to cool. Makes 2 dozen.

In the COMMENTS: Christine, wow, a month in Europe! Hope you’ll get to Beaune sometime. Pete, Scotlands loss is our gain.The fact that you like haggis is no surprise to me. You are quite the adventurous eater. And if you didn’t like the bridle cakes, no way I am going there. Joan, thank you for straightening me out on the chip butty. A French fry sandwich? Oh my Lord. These folks are serious about their carbs. Zandra, outdoor cafés are the best, I wish we had more of them in the States. Sounds like you are in a good spot.

Favorite READS: Vicky likes Lessons in Chemistry, which some of my friends are reading. I think it’s now a TV series too. Natalia recommends the Flowers of Provence by Jamie Beck, as a relaxing and beautiful escape from the world, which we all need right now. I am in still re-reading Mary Stewart. Try Thunder on the Right for one that is set in southwestern France, and her descriptions will take you there.

 

 

 

Fish Tea, and Other Oddities

A couple of years ago our châtelaine, Nicole, her cousin, our friend Belinda and I hopped on a plane for a girls' trip to Scotland. Recently I came across my photos of the trip. And sifting through them, I was reminded of this: the Scots have a twinkle in their eye. Quirky customs and a cheeky sense of humor are in full display. See the photo of the weather forecasting station above, for the perfect example, which we spotted on a fence in a scotch distillery we visited.

The Scots are friendly, funny, no-nonsense sorts of folks. And I guess you need a sense of humor to live in a place with weather that we might politely call, frickin' freezing. We had the good fortune to have sunny, 70 degree days during most of our visit, but we were repeatedly told that we were lucky to have arrived during the "three days of Scottish summer." And walking along the North Sea in Saint Andrews was about as  bone chilling as a June day can get.

Really, though, Scotland should be on your bucket list. It’s a wild and gorgeous country. And, as I hope my photos will show you, the Scots aim to make you smile.

 

The name of this restaurant says it all, and simply.

 

"True Scotsman" is the term used for a Scot wearing a kilt with nothing under it. And kilts are everywhere...

 

...Including on this apron for the ladies. Note the sign says, "Men's version also available." Wonder what that looks like?

 

A fanciful garden gnome

 

I will take a pass on the" fish tea" (though, as it turns out, it means fish and chips with a pot of tea and buttered bread so you can make a 'chip butty', which is a fish sandwich).

 

LOL

 

We stood on this very spot on the Loch Ness, and looked (in vain) for Nessie

 

We spotted this cow on a street in Edinburgh. But where was the other half? 

 

 

It was right around the corner, on Cowgate street.

 

The decor in a Scottish castle, oh my.

 

t

 

Whimsy in a bakery shop window.

 

They have some funny looking cows. That's Nicole keeping one of the friendly and hairy Highland cows at bay.

 

 

A see-through building on the North Sea.

 

They take their baked potatoes very seriously.

 

 

Haggis is defined as "a Scottish dish consisting of a sheep's or calf's offal mixed with suet, oatmeal, and seasoning and boiled in a bag made from the animal's stomach". You've got to wonder about a country that would bake this up in a pie.

 

A Scottish dog, with lion-sized delusions of grandeur.

 

A peacock joined us at the table next to us at lunch.

 

In the COMMENTS:Julie, that sounds like the perfect French day. And Carolyn, too,  has a very poetic description of market day in Beaune. Susan J, I’ve never been to Mexico but it sounds like I need to visit. Paula, I love the description, “la douceur de la vie”. To Parisbreakfast, it’s true the American chains are stealthily invading France, but they are (so far) not nearly so numerous as in the States, and even fewer are in the French countryside. Tom, I’ve also found it to be true that there are lots of social gatherings in the countryside—and they can be quite long, the French love to bavarder! Nathalie, bonjour à vous, Tino et Titi.

 

Favorite READS: Natalia has another book for us francophiles, A Bakery in Paris, a historical family saga. Susan V likes The Greater Journey, Americans in Paris. --David McCullough's book about the creative Americans who traveled to, and fell in love with, Paris. And you will want to visit the blog of our reader Carol , who writes this week in ParisBreakfasts about the Salon du Chat in Paris. You are going to love her sketches, watercolors, and letters which are available on Etsy. 

 

 

 

The Ultimate French Lifestyle Photo? The Winner is...

 

The photos juxtaposed above are amusing, and extraordinary. Ron found these photos on  the site Frenchly (but regrettably I can't find the original source).  I have never seen anything that captures, so perfectly, the differences in American and French life. Folks often ask why we moved here--see above for the answer. 

Let's break it down a bit--the photos tell a complex story.

France: Let's go get a coffee! In Paris alone, you will have about 13,000 outdoor cafés to choose from. We walk over to one of many near us in Beaune. Love that espresso--a pretty cup and saucer, a little cookie served on the side, we bask in the sun under a parosol, and often friends pass by to chat.

USA: We hit the Starbucks--McDonald's in a pinch--for a styrofoam go-cup to drink in the car. See photo above. I don't know about your town, but in Charleston I'm having trouble coming up with a whole bunch of charming coffee shops with outdoor terraces. Nothing near that 13,000 number!

 

Slow food in France: Time for lunch! We wander out to an intimate bistro, where we dine and drink for a couple of hours. The working crowd is here too, along we the retired.

Fast food in the USA: the fast food restaurants are everywhere, in town and country and strip malls. Grab lunch and go--maybe eat at your desk or in your car. And the architecture of these places? See photo at top. 

Lunch at a French bistro

France, transport: we walk to get a coffee or a meal, most of the time. Easy because there are so many boulanageries, cafés, bistros.

USA: we get in our car.

Ron shares an espresso with his friend Christophe

 

Now I know this is a bit unfair. Fast food drive-throughs exist in France, though they are few and far between. And the US has plenty of nice restaurants and coffee shops too, but because the US is more suburban than urban, they usually require a car trip. 

In the end, the great French lifestyle is what it's all about. In France, leisure, social and family time are precious. Work, ambition and material goods take a back seat to pleasure and relaxation. They don't have worries about who will pay for their health care or retirement, as their taxes and systems take care of all this for them. They are surrounded by beauty. Could this sociable, active, lower stress lifestyle be why France spends half what the US does on health care, yet the French live longer? I think they're on to something!

So, dear readers, what do you see in these lifestyle photos?

 

In the COMMENTS: Emily, I got a kick out of hearing that your friend adopted all 5 kittie--je comprend! More in a future post, though, about how to foster without keeping every adorable kitten. Anne  Marie, no lapin for me either! Colleen, have a wonderful trip. Tom has just taken a group on a great and impressively thorough tour of Burgundy, I'm glad it was fun!

Favorite READS: Natalia, who always supplies us with the best French related books, has a really good one for us, called The Paris Assignment. Julie makes a great case for reading Long Ago in France, which I will do as I have discovered the delights of our nearby city of Dijon as well. And our reader Anne Marie has just published a book! It's called Being Bunny, and it's about her experience with rabbits as (wonderful!) pets.

And speaking of bunnies, many of you are already familiar with the beautiful artwork and children's books of our loyal reader Colleen Taylor. But did you know she does greeting cards too? There is a selection of beautiful cards, and amazingly you can add a personal note/signature in your own handwriting, all on line! She paints lots of animals, and here is her bunny card. See this card and more here.

 

 

A "Tartine" That's Over the Top

If you have ever sat in a French café and ordered breakfast, you have probably encountered the word tartine. When talking about le petit déjeuner, it refers to a split baguette with butter and jam.

But in France a tartine can also be an open face sandwich on a slice of baguette. Sort of the French version of an Italian bruschetta but with French ingredients. A baguette slice spread with goat cheese and topped with strawberries, for example, or buttered and topped with thinly sliced radishes and chives. Though you’ll see lots of recipes for them in the food magazines, they are not particularly common in France, except perhaps for a fancy apéro.

In France, tartines usually have a base of a soft cheese like goat or ricotta, like these with roasted cherries and thyme.

But we visited Denmark this summer, where the smørrebrød, which is the Danish version of an open faced sandwich, is everywhere. And it dazzles! There are entire restaurants devoted to smørrebrød--we ate in one, see Ron digging in, above. They look  stunning, and I have never seen sandwiches quite like them. I was completely blown away at an indoor market especially, where multiple versions were displayed in a glass case, like so many colorful jewels. They are culinary works of art.

 

I was not fond of the traditional base of the smørrebrød, which is a dry, thinly-sliced sourdough rye, heavy and dark, called rugbrød. Its density evolved due to the origin of the sandwich. The back story is, farm workers used to pile leftovers onto stale bread to put in their lunch boxes, the bread supporting the whole thing. The advantage to dry or toasted bread is that you can make the sandwich ahead without the bread getting soggy. The smørrebrød is always spread generously with butter first, to give it another layer of protection. When I make these myself I will use regular sandwich rye or pumpernickel, and toast it. Toasted baguette slices would work as well. 

These beauties were the exception, made with toasted white bread.

 

When making or eating the smørrebrød--there are rules! Butter the bread first, then add thin toppings, then the beefier ones. Use only one protein per sandwich; proteins are not mixed, even cheese with meat. Any protein can be a player, even meatballs or fried fish. Layer on something crunchy (radish slices, celery, onions) and shower some fresh herbs on top. Garnish lavishly.

If eating several at a time, which is the custom, go in the proper order: start with their beloved pickled herring, then other seafoods or boiled eggs, then on to the meat, veggies, and finally those with cheese. Use your knife and fork to eat them.

 

Danish avocado toasts, garnished with groseilles and red onions.

 

We must try these at home! So, lay your base with your favorite toasted bread, put on your artist's hat, and get creative with those toppings. I took lots of photos to inspire us!

 

The salmon salad is garnished with rye bread crusts, peaches, and pea shoots

 

Chicken salad with mushrooms and chervil, topped with bacon. (This one breaks the 2 protein rule!)

 

The tartare has capers, eggs, and a mustardy pickled-veggie relish. The potato one has crispy onions & thyme

 

 

Shrimp with lemon, chives--and pansies

 

Roast beef with horseradish, red onions and fried onions, pickles, and a vinegar/mustard sauce

 

An open-faced meatball sub with potato salad, chives, and tomato

 

Velbekomme, and bon appétit!

 

In the COMMENTS:  Anne, I hope you and your better 3/4 will get to France next year. Maybe Beaune? Natalia, you have a great idea, I haven't re-read Peter Mayle in years, and it will be great fun to do so, since my memoire is not what it used to be. Sandy, it seems impossible that I've never read MFK Fisher, and I plan to start with your suggestion, merci.

Once in a while I have the pleasure of meeting my far-away readers. Francine and Jean from Portland, it was lovely to meet you last week!

 And for our occasional feature, Be Kind to Your Fellow Animals, I have this suggestion, for anyone who is bored, depressed, or just needs a lift: try fostering! Animal shelters are always in need of folks to house animals temporarily or to socialize feral ones, while waiting on adoption. It's also a good way to try out a pet to see if it's a good fit. I fostered and socialized abandoned kittens for a couple of years, and it was SO much fun, and rewarding. (But beware of foster failures! We have one, called Vino Bambino). And yes it's hard to give them up, but it's so gratifying to know you've saved the life of an animal and sent them off to a forever home. You can read more about fostering here.

The photos below are some litters I've fostered. The last one on the left, the sassy gray one trimmed in white, kept sneaking out of the "nursery"  bedroom for snuggles, and in the end refused to leave.

 

 

 

Bikes and Brooms in Provence

A famous fountain in Aix-en-Provence

 I am a total misfit in my immediate family. My family is what you would call sportif, in French. But that's an understatement. My eldest stepdaughter is at the top of the heap, she’s an internationally rated triathlete. Our small group is also into cycling, windsurfing, kiteboarding, sailing, rock climbing, hang gliding--the list goes on. Just this month, for example, my adventurous granddaughter has been sky-diving from a helicopter, bungee jumping, cliff diving, spelunking, and white water rafting. Meanwhile, my idea of a perfect day is a nice stroll, a luxury hotel, and a decadent lunch, ideally followed by a nap.

So when our daughter and granddaughter came to visit this month, they decided they might like to ride their bikes from our house in Beaune down to Marseilles. This, by the way, is about 500 km. So Ron, our younger daughter and I signed up to be the voiture-balai, known in English as the broom car or the sag-wagon. Since these two cyclistes extraordinaires never sagged or needed sweeping up, basically we were luggage schleppers. Amazingly they got up at 6 a.m. and were done by lunchtime every day, so we had plenty of time to sightsee together. 

Every journey begins with a single pedal. Here is Team Watts, leaving from Beaune.

Which gives me an excuse to give you a mini tour of Aix-en-Provence, a two-day stop on our trip. We have visited there a gazillion times, and it’s always a treat.

Aix (pronounced, “X”), is a big American and British destination, ever since it was popularized by Peter Mayle’s first book, A Year in Provence. He loved to sit and people-watch at the bistro Les Deux Garcons. We did too until it went up in flames a couple of years ago, and they are still in the process of rebuilding it. We look forward to seeing its next incarnation.

A side-street in Aix

 Aix is famous for having the most beautiful main street in Europe, Le Cours Mirabeau, which has a series of roundabouts with stunning fountains. It’s a lively town because there’s a university there, plus plenty of tourists of course. Aix is the  former capital of Provence, and has a long and rich history.

Another fountain along Le Cours Mirabeau

 

Come for the architectural details alone

 

The luxury hotel of my dreams is in Aix, but this being a sporty trip, we stayed at a much more reasonable and practical spot.

We did discover a classy joint which is my favorite new restaurant in Aix, at the Hotel de Caumont. It’s not actually a hotel, it’s a decorative arts museum with rotating art exhibits that you can tour, and it has beautiful formal gardens. You can lunch in the jardin in their gorgeous enclosed courtyard with a divine salad, and pretend that you are one of those elegant French elites who summers in the sunny Luberon. It was here we chose to take our official team photo.

Lunching in the jardin

the formal garden

So what does one do in Aix besides eat very well? Here are a few items from my list.

 

— people-watch at a bistro on Cours Mirabeau with an Aperol spritz in hand.

— get lost in the narrow winding streets, where you can shop in the tantalizing boutiques and gaze at the lovely architecture.

— check out Cézanne's Atelier, and then take the marked pedestrian walk that takes you to his hang-outs.

--there are a number of museums, and there is a market or brocante somewhere every day in Aix.

My grandaughter Jess demonstrating an essential Cours Mirabeau activity

If you go:  if you are feeling flush, book at the  five-star Villa Gallici  (a Relais and Château) and pamper yourself to the max. This time we stayed at a three-star hotel, L'Hotel de Concorde. Well located and pleasant. We’ve also stayed at the Best Western (quatre étoiles), which is right off the main street.

 

In the COMMENTS: We have great recommendations this week. Paula says a podcast called the Gilded Gentleman, the Riviera episode, gives a history of the Villa Rothschilds. Also Christine has another garden for us, Les Jardins of Marqueyssac, in the Dorgogne. I have been there, long ago—fabulous! A reminder that I want to go again.Our reader Francine has kindly suggested a webinar which tells you all about the details of moving to France, which you can find here.

Favorite READS: if you would like to experience Provence virtually, I recommend A Year in Provence or any of Peter Mayle's other books, and the fun movie, A Good Year. Readers, I'm sure you have more ideas.

I am a fan of the "cozy" or romantic mystery genres--interesting characters, a sense of place, and very little blood (think author Mary Stewart, or Midsommer or Inspector Lewis, on TV). My latest read, The Paris Mystery by Kristy Manning, is  just what this book is, and it's an entertaining one, too.

We have some good book recommendations from readers as well. Natalia likes Nina George's The Little Villlage of Booklovers. Paula suggests The Retreat, by Sara Pearse, a mystery; and The Gown, by Jennifer Robson, a historical novel. Merci, keep those ideas coming!

 

Four Weddings and A Garden

 

Once upon a time, a very rich and beautiful Baroness with a grand house in Paris (and the obligatory château in the countryside), born in 1864, decided to construct her personal fantasy. She picked the most beautiful spot: the tip top of a peninsula on the Mediterranean that looked out over the dramatic scenery of the Cote d'Azur, and made it her winter home. She built a pink Cinderella-worthy confection of a villa, and circled it with with a series of lush themed gardens--Japanese, Italian, French, Mexican--all profiting from a 360 degree view of the azure blue waters of the Med. From all over Europe, she gathered up (some would say plundered) trainloads of antique architectural elements, statuary, columns, etc. for the garden. A year before her death, she bequeathed it all to the Academie de Beaux Arts, so all could visit.

The Italian garden

A view from inside the villa

 

The views are stunning

 We visit the gardens of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild every time we are in Cap Ferrat, to see what's blooming and to immerse ourselves in the late Baroness' fantasy. This time, we arrived not long before closing time and they were in the final throes of setting up a wedding that was the fantasy of one lucky bride and groom. One of the outdoor stairways was bedecked with thousands of white roses. Then, gasp, the bride! Arriving early for photos. She wore a train of such fluff and froth that it took two guys, trailing behind her, to carry it. 

The scene of the nuptials:

 Mademoiselle arrives:

But oops! Raindrops start to fall just before the ceremony.

Sadly we were kicked out at this point. But it got me thinking, they must do weddings there often. A quick search revealed some ceremonies that I am pretty sure set Daddy back something in excess of the cost of our house. Here are a few of the photos, of how People Not Like Us get married, in the most beautiful villa on the Mediterranean. If you could use a little French daydreaming to perk you up today, you're in luck!

 

How’s this for a set up? Barbie would love it. A platform built out over the lake, covered in pink fleurs.

.

 
And another…

 
A bit of dancing, inside the villa

 

 No rain for this party, they dined outside under the rose topiaries

This couple had an entire website, devoted to their affair…

Love her sassy dress, but not sure about the leather pants and full length furs

Whatever

Felicitations to all the happy couples!

Favorite READS: Our book lover Natalia recommends Mastering The Art of French Murder. And you, Natalia,  for your recommendation of the Paris daughter, which I’ve just finished and I loved.

.

 

 

Yet Another Reason to Visit Bourgogne

A postcard of Château de Sully

I'm a bit obcessed with châteaux. OK, a lot. That was true even before I came to live in one. And I'm in the right neighborhood, as they are everywhere in La Bourgogne. You can hardly drive a kilometer without tripping over a turret of some sort. 

The big ones are stunningly expensive to maintain, so most of these are open to the public. There are so many that there are two "château routes" in Bourgogne. The first is La Route des Châteaux en Bourgogne Sud, in our old neighborhood around Cluny; there are 15 of these, and I've been to most of them. But now I have a new crop to see around Beaune: La Route de Ducs de Bourgogne.

So we got crackin' on the list this week. What to know about châteaux is this: they are remarkably diverse. They were built in different centuries, starting in  the 9th on up into the 19th century. There is even an authentic one being constructed as we speak, in the traditonal manner, at Guédelon (don't miss it if you're in the area). They can be large or small, defensive or just prestige palaces, rustic or refined, in the middle of massive formal gardens or in the middle of a mellow meadow. 

This week's offering was the Château de Sully. It was huge, and interesting, if a little frayed around the edges. It is owned (and lived in) by royals whose lineage goes back to the ice ages. 

We pique niqued in the shade by the moat, contemplating the enormity of the building and listening to birdsong and the lowing of the cows that were in the field next to us. The uncut lawn tickled our ankles and old forests topped the hills around us. 

This bridge is the private entrance to the family's "apartment"

Inside, the rooms pretty much had their original patina, with the usual grand vestibule, ballroom, and the fumoir, the lair where the men retired to talk about manly things. 

There is always seems to be a good story or two to be told about the château. Here, the owner is a Duchesse with a grown son and daughter, all in residence. Sadly Le Duc met an untimely death a few years ago. The son then inherited the Duc title; the daughter, being a female, got nothing, so she had to forfeit her nobility. Her only hope, our charming guide told us, was to hunt up her own Duc and marry him. But in fact, the 30-year-old daughter did them one better--this past summer she married an Italian prince, so she is now a princess! She has upped her game considerably, in the hierarchy of such things. You go girl!

The Duc who built the château was big-time  into hunting, which explains the animal motif on the entry door

 

Stone geometric shapes echo the topiaries in the small formal garden.

 

There was an overgrown potager.

 Actually they may be needing the Prince's funds (is it perhaps like the old days, when you make a good marriage with the royal income as the main criteria?). Turns out that the Château de Sully, plus the stable and the extensive series of barns all need new roofs (see photo at top). We are talking acres of roofs and gazillions of euros. And that must all be done before they start on the interior renovations, and the needs look to be considerable. Yowsa. And did I mention it takes a staff of 15 to maintain it and keep it open for tours?

So we have spent one very pleasant day, chalking another château off our list. And if you want to get a good feel for the rich history of La Bourgogne, there's hardly a better way to do it than château-hopping. Maybe I'll see you there.

IF you go: Both the southern route and the Ducs de Bourgogne route have websites. Many of the châteaux have summer festivals and activities, like the fabulous immersive one in Digoine, or the Cormatin summer theatre festival. Check the schedules, because some of the châteaux are only open in summer months.

P.S. And speaking of châteux, this week I came across some old postcards of the Château de Balleure (it's a private one), where we lived for 3 years. So, just for fun:

 

In the COMMENTS: Anne, it’s happened to us a couple of times while traveling, that we’ve happened on a fête. It’s always a memorable  bit of serendipity. But Colleen, as a music lover with a musician husband, you may want to avoid the small towns for this particular fête! Natalia, I loved your post—my husband doesn’t dance in public but he will dance with me in the kitchen after dinner (probably to put off the dishes). And thanks for the tip, I will now cut up my chip and other snack bags as well. Natalia has a new book for us, comme d’habitude, happily: Lady Tan’s Circle of Women, an intriguing historical novel.

Our new (occasional) feature is Be Kind to Your Fellow  Animals. If you, like seemingly everyone else these days, are trying to cut down on meat (better for your health, the planet, and certainly for the poor farm animals), then here are some tips from a pescatarian married to a carnivore. First of all, streeetrch your hamburger beef, which also adds much deliciousness. I throw a bunch of mushrooms on a sheet pan and roast them until they are browned around the edges. Then I chop them coarsely in the food processor, and mix them in with ground beef, at a ratio of roughly 1 part mushrooms to 3 parts beef. Freeze or use right away to make hamburgers or any ground beef dish. Not only does it stretch the meat, it adds more depth and flavor, (per my own carnivore, and friends). Another tip is to check out authentic Asian and Mexican recipes--these cultures, among others, have a tradition of making delicious meatless main dishes.

 

The French Throw Themselves a Party

"California Sun" with a French accent: "We're out there having fun, in ze warm California sun."

It's simple, really; every year France throws itself a big party, on June 21, on or near the the summer solstice. Everywhere in the country, on the same night. In towns large and small.

It's called La Fête de la Musique. And if you have one in a town in your country, you can thank the French; they started this party, in 1982, and it's spread to various places around the world. There is music on every street corner, on bistro terraces, in every Place. Rock, jazz, folk, new age, whatever your genre, you'll hear it here. There's not a lot of planning involved, because there a twist to this music festival: It's amateur night, and the musicians are all playing free of charge, on any spot they can grab. Every school band, every gray-haired, pony-tailed aging hippie reliving their garage band days, every hopeful busker, they all turn out to showcase their talent--or, cheerfully, their lack thereof. A few professionals show up, but they are outnumbered by the wannabees.

The streets  of Beaune were packed with revelers.

 Now you may think that with music on every corner, there would be a cacaphony of competing sounds and beats. You would be right. And at least in the smaller towns (even sophisticated Beaune), there is one word to describe most of the music: awful. But the enthusiam is delightful.

Folks turned out in force at The Place Carnot  to hear this group, who used costumes to distract from any failings in talent.

 

Everybody, young and old, spills out onto the streets in the evening. In the squares there will be children frolicking, a few dancers showing off their moves, and crowds clapping appreciatively, no matter how painful the missed notes. The streets are completely packed, with the masses wandering from venue to venue, some stopping to grab a table at the packed cafes. We've been to many of these affairs over the years, but never in a big city, where I'm sure it's a bit more polished and organized. I read that this year in Paris, for example, it was female musicians only in the Jardin de Luxembourg.

Every 20-something in Beaune was packed onto this terrace, to hear one of the best acts of the night, a fine sax player and a synthesizer

But fine music is not the point of this fête. It's a big happy party, free and open to all, and the small town beat is the one we want to dance to.

 

This young guy was singing songs he'd penned himself, in a sweet voice

 

In the COMMENTS: Julie, a caretaker type person is crucial, that’s surprising it’s so difficult. And good luck with the visa process. Chris, month-long trips sound pretty great, and yes it would take a lifetime to see all of beautiful France. Paula, so often, grandkids change everything! Jane, French landlords must like expats, never known any of them to have that problem (they think all Americans are rich, ha!). We changed our marriage regime as well, but I think the rules have changed. Cynthia, I’ve never heard of the rental problem you mention either—but the laws slanted toward tenants have unexpected consequences for sure. Christophe, you are right about word-of-moth, and it’s always good to ask the local notaire as well. Dan, such insightful thoughts, and yes it’s hard to get your head around: the US has 50 states with different laws, while France has only one. Francine, you can buy into the French health care system (under certain conditions), or you can buy a private policy to cover you in France. Yes, residents must file and pay taxes in the US and France, but you get credits for what you paid in France.

Favorite READS: Natalia loved The Paris Daughter, by Kristin Harmel. And my friend Rudy raves about France, An Adventure History, if you want to brush up on your history, in a unique way.

And this week, an (occasional) new feature, Be Kind to Your Fellow Animals, because, well, I love animals. Today's tip: please think about the plastic and trash you throw away. Birds and fish get heads and beaks and other body parts caught up in plastics, and in those mesh bags that avocados and onions come in. Please tie a knot or two in any bag you throw away. Worst offenders: those flexible plastic rings that hold cans of soda: please take a minute to cut through each one. Also cone shaped yogurt containers (like Youplait) are a problem; birds stick their heads in and can't back out, so make a few cuts in them (or buy another brand). Small plastic rings,too, can be torture. Merci for thinking ahead when you throw plastic out.

If you don't do these things, here's what happens:

 

Moving to France? Here's What You Need to Know

To illustrate this post on moving to France, I've chosen some of my travel photos from various regions, to entice you.

BORDEAUX  at night

In a post last month, we tried to answer the question, "Should you/could you move to France?", with lots of good help from our readers. Here's what to do next if your answer is oui. Even if you're just going for a few months, you'll find some helpful info here (this is principally for Americans, but other expats should find some good info here as well).

Alors. You've narrowed down your region. You've hopefully met a few folks in the area, and maybe even found that "angel" we talked about. You've brushed up on--or started-- your French study. You've rented somewhere to live, at least for the short term. Hopefully you are tuned in to helpful websites like The Local, The Connexion, Expatica, etc. Let's get packing!

Cruising in Colmar, in the ALSACE

 (Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on this stuff, and rules change all the time. This is meant only as an overview--you'll need to do your own homework!)

First up, you'll need a visa. 

Before you arrive you'll need a long-term visa, which will last for 6 months and which you must get in the States. When you get to France, you should start working on the process of getting a Carte de Séjour, with the préfecture in your département. Go to the website of your local préfecture for full info, and much of it can be done online. This is basically a year-long visa, which has to be renewed annually for 5 years, at which point you'll be eligible for a 10-year visa. With the 10-year visa, you will be also be eligible to work in France (note: if you want to work the first five years, there are different visas/rules. There's a good article on this subject in Complete France).

I wish I could tell you the Carte de Séjour process will be easy. But taking on the pesky French bureaucracy never is. ALWAYS make copies of everything and tuck these documents away in a file. Some you can even copy, change the date, and re-use.

Beautiful in the BEAUJOLAIS

Now, about that driver's license you'll be needing. You have a year to get one.

Eighteen US states have reciprocity--lucky you if you're a resident of one!-- meaning you just have to exchange your US driver's license for a French one and you're done. (It MUST be done in the first year!). Without reciprocity, you're going to have to hand over some cash and take a driving test, in French, which requires some serious study. (Pro Tip: note that you must turn over your US license to the French. If you want to keep both, go to the DMZ when in the States, before it expires, and tell them you've lost yours).

Américaine in France has a current article on the subject. There is also a good facebook page devoted to the subject.

A village in the JURA

 Taxes: This is a complex subject. If you stay longer than 6 months you become a French fiscal resident and you are obligated to file French taxes in addition to your US taxes. You might want to start with this site, The Good Life France, they have an article on US taxes here. Ma French Life has a good article as well.There is a French/US tax treaty which governs all this. There is a wealth tax you should know about, if it applies to you.

 There is a great facebook group my husband found called Strictly Fiscal France, which is all and only about taxes, insurance, and finances for UK and American expats. They have put together some guides on various topics. Kristin Espinasse of the French Word-A-Day blog has a great post on getting reasonably priced help with US tax filing from abroad. 

If you're a subscriber, try this article from the Wall Street Journal on the subject.

Perfectly PROVENCE

Health care: The French health care system is excellent. Our only complaint is that it can take some time to get in to see a specialist--shortages abound. But a good GP can take care of most things, and get you in to a specialist in an emergency.

You will need health insurance of course. You can purchase special international policies for this. They will not be exorbitant because French health care is astonishingly cheaper than in the US. Sadly Medicare will not cover you in France but retired military health insurance will. Start by checking with your carrier to see what they might cover.

Buying into the French system is possible but beyond our scope here. Expatica weighs in here.   And here is another helpful site.

In the COTE D'OR, Château de la Rochepot

Banking: Our reader Francine asked about French banking accounts. Ron answers: "US money laundering laws have made it more difficult for Americans as some banks think the compliance efforts are not worth having American accounts. PRO TIP: our bank, Credit Agricole Britline is a French bank with English speaking agents, designed just for anglos.

"We’ve always sent pensions to our US bank accounts. From there we buy Euros when desired via XE.com and they transfer the funds to our French account." 

 

Sailing near Grenoble, in the ALPS

 Renting a House: Leases for unfurnished residences are 3 years in duration. Annual increases are regulated, and small. Legal rights strongly favor tenants, in general. Rents here seem extremely reasonable to us (but then we are coming out of the expensive Charleston market). Expatica has a good article on the subject.

Villefranche sur Mer on the COTE D'AZUR

 Buying real estate: Although the process is different, it's pretty straight forward. There are no restrictions on buying real estate in France (Ron says: "You've got money, you can buy!"). Just get good advice along the way (see tips at the end of this post). We think real estate is generally a bargain in France, unless you are somewhere pricey and chic--Paris, the Côte d'Azur, or west coast resorts for example.

In the DORDOGNE, the village of Brantôme

Renting a car: we've always owned cars here, but you might want to rent, depending on how long you stay. The local grocery stores (the large Grand Surface ones, like Leclerc, Super U, and Carrefour) often rent cars, for far cheaper than anyone else.

Cluny, in southern BURGUNDY

Estate Planning: if you own property in France, be aware that the rules are very different. Kids automatically inherit, and you have to jump through some hoops if you prefer to customize that. Tax implications are different, too. 

Annecy, in the ALPS

Bringing your pet: We travel with our cat Vino Bambino in the cabin, when we go back  to the States for a while. Delta/Air France is the only option I know of to take a pet in the cabin from the US to Europe. But if you have a larger pet, you may have to put them in the hold. If you do, just be sure to travel in cooler weather--spring or fall are best. It isn't risk-free. But out of necessity we did ship our previous cat in the hold when we first arrived. She was a complete wimp of a cat, yet was absolutely fine with her Delta trip--well-fed and watered and totally relaxed and purring when we picked her up. 

The late Piccolo's first day in France, at the château

 There is no quarantine period in France, happily, but be sure to read the rules carefully. There may be tests required for the first trip that must be done in advance, I believe it's 21 days. After that you get a French pet passport and you get your vet to update it before every trip, on both sides of the pond. It's pretty easy, just do it 10 days before you leave. Just don't get behind in shots, and pay attention to exam timelines, or you could get in a fix.

International jetsetter  Vino Bambino

Vino's passport includes a mug shot

 This covers just the basics. My dear readers, so many of you have been through this process. What have I forgotten and what is important to know? Pitfalls to avoid? Please do check  in!

 

Are you overwhelmed yet? If so, I've got good news! There are multi-lingual expats who can guide you through every step of the process--buying a house, settling in--and I know two of them personally.  I can recommend them both highly.

If you're moving to Burgundy, our friend Marit can help (and sometimes she goes a bit further afield):

Ella Dyer is an American living in Nice. She is a part of the Adrain Leeds Group: "French Property the American Way". They can help you navigate the French system in any area of France; Ella specializes in the Côte d'Azur.

 

 

In the COMMENTS: Thanks again to Francine for her delicious post on her cookbook. Also, if you are interested in moving to France, you might go back to our previous post, Should you, Could You, Move to France?, and check out the additional comments, which have continued to come in. Dana and Sandy have had experiences close to ours, and Sandy was interviewed on her adventures in a podcast you may want to check out.

Favorite READS: Natalia checks in with another great read for us: Things I Wish I Told My Mother, by Susan Patterson (yes, the wife of James). Natalia calls it "wonderful and poignant".

 

A Franco-American Cook to the Rescue

Our loyal reader Francine Chough moved in the other direction: born and raised near Beaune, she moved to the US 40 years ago. And she has written a cookbook to help Americans de-mystify French cuisine. Francine has kindly agreed to do a guest post for us today, to tell her story. And don't miss her recipe at the end--it's something you can do with those leftover bananas that is a lot more glamorous than banana bread!

Soufflés at The Kitchen Engine 

"Your blog was introduced to me by my dearest friend, my soul sister, Eleanor who was quite the Francophile. She passed away in 2019.

Being born in France and having lived in the US for 40 plus years on the West coast, I loved to read your stories about small town life in France.

I grew up in Burgundy 20 kms from Beaune and went to Dijon University. I always loved cooking, eating and entertaining and have always been fascinated by the interest Americans had for French cooking.

I taught family French home cooking classes called “Easy French Cooking” at community colleges then “Regional French Cooking” at the Alliance Française de Portland. I tried to teach easy French home cooking for Americans who were intimidated by French cuisine.

During the pandemic, I had more time to write a cookbook called “Bricks in a Pebble Sauce”.  This cookbook tells how food is interconnected with culture, history, geography, family anecdotes. It is not just a cookbook! It tells you about French traditions, sauces, drinks, culture, appetizers, main dishes, cheeses, desserts and more.

The title “Bricks in a Pebble Sauce” is an expression my mom used all the time if we asked her what was on the menu when we got home from school for lunch : “On mange des briques à la sauce cailloux”.

As I was looking for a title, my brother who lives in Vannes, in Brittany, suggested I should use that expression. I was a little worried since the translation of mom’s expression in English is a little intriguing to say the least! So I guess intriguing it is!!"

Teaching how to make salade niçoise on AMNorthwest a morning show on ABC affiliate in Portland, Oregon

 

Teaching a class on French Mother Sauces at The Kitchen Engine in Spokane, WA

Francine, your title is intriquing and so are your recipes. Merci beaucoup for sharing with us!

 

RECIPE: Francine's Bananas Flambée

This recipe is reprinted from the Frenchly blog, where you can learn even more about Francine. She also contributed to an article on how to cut French cheese (yes there are rules!) on this Frenchly post, and she covers it in her book too.

Serves 4

1 to 2 tablespoons of butter
3 to 4 bananas, peeled, cut in half and then lengthwise
1 tablespoon of brown sugar
1 tablespoon of Grand Marnier, Cognac, rum, or other liquor with at least 40% alcohol

Needed:
Paring knife
Frying pan
Matches or lighter

Directions:
In a frying pan, melt butter on medium heat. When it is sizzling, place the cut bananas and sprinkle with sugar.
When they start to caramelize, pour the alcohol and, when warm, light a match and bring it close to the dish so it lights up. Swirl the pan around to burn off all the alcohol.
Serve as is or with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream!

Tip:
Do not use the kitchen fan when you flambé.

In the COMMENTS: the comments last time were chock full of enthusiastic words about moving to France, many from those who have done so. The expression “life-changing” comes up a couple of times (and mostly in a good way, though Cynthia and Tom give us some reality checks). 

My dear friend Belinda, who found me on my blog before she came to France for a year and ended up staying in the Château, left a nice comment and referred us to her memoir of that time, Sixty Steps in the Turret. Don’t miss it if you are thinking of a French adventure.

 

Monica has a  story too and was also lucky to find an angel who “tucked them under her wings”. Jane discusses life in “la France profonde”.

 

Please don’t miss Tom’s lengthy comment, full of tips and wisdom. I have followed Tom's blog, Life in the Lanquedoc since he moved to France with his cat in tow, and I can recommend it to you. He has generously offered to answer questions, for those considering a move to the southwest.

 

To Norma and Cindy, You will see a number of readers telling you to forget the age thing and go for it! I am 73 , Ron's a bit older, and we are not even thinking about leaving. And y’all sound healthy and fit. We have great confidence in the French health care system, but you do have to consider your language abilities and  your comfort level at being away from your family, and your favorite doctors. As Cynthia points out (in a comment which cracked me up, and Ron as well), "it’s hard to navigate through a health issue and conjugate verbs at the same time.” Been there, Cynthia!

 

Carolyn, Cynthia, and other readers have emphasized the importance of learning the language, however imperfectly. I could not agree more.

In the next post, we’ll be discussing the practicalities of moving to France—and for those of you struggling with the details of a move and/or the language, we’ve got two professionals to recommend who can help you every step of the way.

Favorite READS: Susan Crawford has written a major book about climate change that I've started reading, and she's used Charleston as an example of the struggle because it's one of the cities that will be the first to be affected by rising waters. And because poor communities around the world are likely to be left to cope on their own. It's an eye opener. Charleston: Race, Water, and The Coming Storm.  On a perkier note, Natalia of course has a good book for us: "Expect A Miracle by Danielle Steele. "Her work is always reliably good, with nice endings, but this one is different from her usual fare-- she was given an antique book with blank pages by her grandmother,and she filled it with sayings, quotes, Bible verses (whatever struck her fancy at the time)".

Should You, Could You, Move to France?

This Provençal house is aptly named for our post today

This post will be longer than usual, but we have a very specific and important agenda here: to answer a burning question from a reader’s comment last week, which may be a question quite a few of you have (especially since America seems to be sinking into polarization, ill manners, and gun violence. Sigh). I also know many of you will have good  answers to Carol's questions: you've been there. So readers, here are my thoughts and I hope some of you expats and immigrants will share yours.

Our reader Carol asks: I’m originally from the South and thinking about retiring to France in a few years with my Wyoming husband. We live in Colorado, but the house prices here have more than tripled. And with the violence here, we want to leave. Each year, we visit France, and have grown to love it and the people. We’ve passed the French A1 language exam. Not very good with French, but we’re trying to learn. Any words of encouragement? We’re scared of being left out of life there for lack of knowing much French. We can order at a restaurant fairly well but that’s about it. I’ll be 61 when we retire. We’re both engineers, so math inclined but shy and not very social. Comes with being engineers - as the hubby says - Good with numbers, not so good with people. But we love France. Any thoughts on a fulltime life in France for newbie older shy Americans? 

Oui, we have thoughts!

Carol, you are dealing with a question that so many of us face when we retire: Are we up for an adventure? Jump right in, or play it safe? Should we follow our dream?

 

The end of the rainbow, from our house in La Vineuse

Your question echoes some of the concerns we had when we up and moved full-time to France (also with minimal language skills). I love that you are thinking this through carefully and I love that you contemplating an adventure that will push you both a bit. There is no question, it’s a bold move. It will pop you right out of your comfortable box and into a new world, full of challenges, rich experiences, an education you couldn’t get any other way, and a fabulous new lifestyle.

 

So let’s break down your questions. First of all, you have a great head start: you love France, you’re motivated, and you’re obviously committed to learning French. If you continue your language learning (which will get a huge boost when you get there) and find someone in France to help you a bit, you should be fine. We did fine, even though we moved deep into the countryside, where bi-lingual French speakers are not as common as in big cities.

Let me say up front that our experience has been so incredibly wonderful, the best move we ever made, that I will be full of words of encouragement. I'm clearly biased. But I will also say that, after 20 years and meeting a gazillion expats and immigrants, I only know one (British) couple who could not adjust, and turned around and went home. 

It may help to ask yourselves these questions:  What’s the worst that can happen? Can I bail out if it doesn’t work? When we moved, we decided we would stay as long as we were having fun, that was our only commitment.

It may help ease your mind if you make your move a little bit gradually. Rent a gîte (a French vacation rental) for a month in an area you like, and pretend to be locals, not tourists. Then pick another area and rent for a month, and so on. It’s also a great way to figure out which region is right for you, if that’s an issue.

Then, when you finally make the big move (as we did—we sold our house and furniture, packed the cat, and off we went), we rented a longer-term place instead of buying right away. We ended up buying a house after a year, then spending two years on renovations, so we rented for three years total. Renting also helped us pinpoint the exact place we wanted to buy. And by the time we were ready to start the renovation, we had friends to advise and help us along.

Now let’s talk about being “newbie shy Americans”.

The French are reserved too, especially compared to Americans. So you are going to have to put yourself out there a bit, to get started, but you may find that your reserved personalities mean that you fit in nicely. The French love to be helpful, and they are especially pleased when folks make the effort to learn their language. The French in our small village were incredibly patient and supportive, we were quite touched by it all.

Your commitment to learning the language is going to serve you well, and speaking French will vastly enrich your life there. Living there is the best immersion experience there is, but keep studying. Becoming fluent is a lifelong challenge for most of us.

But how to manage until your French is up to speed? Our answer, is to find an ANGEL. That is, a kind person to take you under their wings. We’ve found that most expats who move here manage to find one or more, usually serendipitously. It might be a friendly local shopkeeper, or a bookstore owner, or a French neighbor who speaks English, or an expat neighbor. We were blessed to find several generous French friends and expats to help us. These folks can help you navigate daily life until you’re settled in, and introduce you to others. Be kind to them, they really are les anges.

The famous smiling angel of Reims

 One thing that was not on our planning list when we chose an area, but it should have been: Where and how and with whom, can we make friends? We were super lucky: we happened to pick a region where the French are especially friendly and there are expats from all over Europe. Expats, far from home, tend to develop a special bond. 

One tip to get started: once you move there—or even on one of those month-long séjours—find a French teacher who has a conversation group or a group French class. With luck you’ll find a sympathetic French person plus some expats/immigrants to befriend.

So let's talk more about meeting people. You can plan ahead for this, in a way.

There  are many beautiful rural properties that are what the French call isolée: sitting all alone in the countryside. That’s fine if that’s your thing, but it won’t help your French much, or help you find friends. We chose a house that was in the heart of a village, with neighbors passing by to chat with. We got out on the street, and we got involved. If you go to a bigger town, you may find established expat groups (there is one in Beaune, for example, a mix of French and expats). 

Expat communities vary by region. Nearly all European expats speak excellent English. In Burgundy we are close to a number of borders, and the gorgeous countryside attracts other Europeans. Our village of 40, which was essentially 2 blocks long, is a case in point. On our street there were French folks of course, and also: Italians, Dutch, Brits, Belgians, and Germans. It was a wonderful international mix which made for some great dinner parties!

Dinner parties are often casual potlucks, called an "auberge espanole" in French

 If you want to be around lots of Brits, the west and the southwest are the most populated. Google searches can help you here, as there are maps of where the expats tend to flock, and by which nationality. 

 Ron's tip for making friends: hang around French weekly markets! The locals will linger over a coffee, it's very much a social event and a way to meet neighbors.

Carol, I hope this has been helpful. In a future post, we’ll go over some of the practicalities of moving—taxes, insurance, and so on. But for now, I’ll turn your question over to our readers. What advice do you have for Carol and her husband?

 

In the Comments: our guest blogger Natalia responds to your comments: "Lynn, thank you again for giving me the honor of writing a guest post, and now(!) for the opportunity to express my heartfelt appreciation to the kind people who made such wonderful comments. Their words meant so much to me."

Favorite READS: Suzanne loves Cara Black's Aimee Leduc series becuase it’s almost as good as being in Paris. And that says a lot. Su has a book for us, Not So Wild a Dream, with Eric Sevareid writing about his experiences as a young journalist in WWII. And speaking of the expat life, cruise over to Kristi's French Word-A-Day blog to read about filing expat taxes, the easy way.

In this  new age of outrage and hate that seems to be seeping into the culture--what better book than one on old-fashioned hospitality and good manners! Everyday Hospitality is a sweet little book with big things to say. It's written by my dear friend Thea Jarvis. I keep a stack on hand for host/hostess gifts. What better way to thank friends for their warm hospitality! The Gift of Grandparenting is another lovely book by Thea.

 

 

 

On Books: Our Own Reviewer/Recommender Shares her Story

Over the years, our loyal reader Natalia has commented routinely and enthusiatically, and she almost always suggests a book or two for us to try. I've taken to calling her our "Reader-in-Residence", as she has become such a fond fixture on this blog! If you've followed this blog for any length of time, you've probably read something she's recommended. Natalia has a strong French connection, too. In her honor, I've asked her to tell us her story, which appears below. And from all of us, a giant Merci for all your ideas and support!

 

 

"Writing this guest post is such an honor for me. I had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with Lynn and Southern Fried French some 15 (or more) years ago. I learned of them from Kristin Espinasse (author of French Word-A-Day  and a number of books) and I greatly respect these two ladies for their talent, for their generosity, and just for being the upstanding women they are.

 

"I’ve always loved the French and their beautiful language.It was my parents’ common language when they first met and remained a favorite when we all lived at home in Scottsdale, Arizona. During WW2, Daddy was one of (Edward R) Murrow’s boys on assignment in Belgrade (Yugoslavia, now Serbia); Mama was their first Serbian female radio broadcaster there in Belgrade (at that time, neither spoke the other’s language). It was a coup de foudre [love at first sight] for them—an event serendipitously passed on to my husband, Ratomir (Rod), and me as we embraced that same coup de foudre. We got engaged at the Sacré Coeur on our first date and in September and will celebrate our 58th anniversary, relishing the occasion with our two beloved “mignons”—sibling Yorkshire Terriers Ellise Rose (Elley) and Aristotle (Ari) who never fail to keep our days overflowing with sunshine and joy.

 

 

"Rod retired from Delta Airlines as a Boeing 767 Captain; and thanks to his encouragement I earned my own pilot's licenses. Since retirement he's become an expert in his hobby of horology...(I now refuse to divulge exactly how many clocks have taken up residence in our house!). We had the good fortune to live in Paris and Montreal as newlyweds (later in other cities), and then enjoyed the bonus of being able to travel a lot, often (usually) at the drop of a hat.

 

"Though I studied French in school, my parents made a real effort to help us kids to become more proficient in speaking by initiating  dinner table conversations covering the events of the day (which predictably turned into disaster when we launched into a free for all of, perfect for our ages, silly/insulting childish name calling--Fatso!! Glasses face!).

 

Also predictably, as an adult encountering periods of being conversation-less in French, I found myself forgetting more than I desired and became pretty rusty. I decided to help myself regain some knowledge and enrolled in a series of excellent French classes at the French Café Society, taught with expertise by its  founder and ever-patient teacher/translator, Ida Young-Bondi. She offered twice weekly Zoom meetings from her then home, in Nice. Our classmates (femmes formidable!) were—and are—diverse, living in several countries, very supportive of each other, and(!!) of huge benefit, offering no judgement, particularly appreciated by this most senior member of the group who laughingly describes herself as sometimes wandering through the land of Natalia’s Fractured French. Fun, motivation, and a nice feeling of progress.

 

"I've been an avid reader since I was little and readily admit that my books have become (alas, in too great a number) my friends. As our bookcases, pictured above,  expanded from stuffed to exploding, the best solution seemed to be in switching to my Kindle instead. I keep it on my nightstand, filled with new reads galore. My husband has sweetly gotten me newer versions, but my constant favorite still is my first one—my old tried and true, where I can cloud titles to my  heart’s content and never forget how to work everything.

 

Natalia reads on her devices--and so do I! Here are a couple of her recent recommendations.

 

"In bygone years I have belonged to several book clubs, but fell out of touch when the chosen subjects failed to capture my imagination and keep my attention.

 

"My favorite books continue to be cookbooks. I left the Sorbonne to attend the Cordon Bleu-I had youthful aspirations to become a chef-—and was also graced with a most inspiring belle mère, my mother-in-law. And, of course,I still love to  prepare (what I hope to be) yummy stuff for my family (and myself!),

 

"A tie for my favorite now also includes books in French, ones with words which are not only  understandable but lead to  a good plot . (Musso remains one of my favored authors).

I sincerely hope  some of my suggestions have brought you enjoyment to you.

 

Natalia has recommended so many books for us over the years. Merci Natalia! Here is a stack from my own French collection.

 

"For twenty five years I wrote for The Yorkshire Terrier Magazine, most articles starring  our own Yorkies, first day to last filled with with pleasure and a sense of accomplishment.

(My skilled and  former editor, Heidi Kausch, still remains a dear friend).

 

"After re-encountering  many scary tales along the lines of featuring how 'the old gray mare ain't what she used to be', a major concern became that all my body parts, first starting from the neck up, would cooperate in shaking out the cobwebs and create something of interest to for you to read. My fingers are crossed."

 

You succeeded Natalia, thank you so much!

 

In the COMMENTS: From Carol, a very interesting question: she and her husband want to relocate to France, but they are a bit introverted and not good French speakers. Should they, could they? This requires a long and thoughtful answer, so tune in for the next post, and I (and I hope, some of you as well) will try to fully answer her question about what you need to know before moving to France (spoiler alert—go for it!). 

Rachel has yet another Pink Sauce variation—they are endless I think. This British/Irish one is aptly named Marie Rose Sauce. And Debbie, you phrased it so well: “I can’t help watching Emily in Paris”!

 

Favorite READS: Of course Natalia has a book recommendation for us this week! She likes Home Again by Kristian Hannah, and loves her other books as well.  And merci, Anne Marie, for another author we might like to read to fluff up our French: Antoine Laurain. (there are English translations as well).  Page and Vicky, how could I possibly missed Sean of the South—a wonderful blog and I immediately subscribed. Thank you!

And an IDEA, for you travelers: our Reader Carolyn is a tour guide and she has a fascinating tour coming up this year: Women in Burgundy, for and about Women. Doesn't it sound fun? Read about it below. 

Women In Burgundy 2023 ….

An Adventure For Women, About Women! 

Wednesday, September 20 to Saturday, September 30, 2023 (10 nights)
Price per guest – $6,550, Single Occupancy
Or, “Travel with a Buddy” for $5,750, Double Occupancy (Savings of $800 per guest)
Limited to six fun-loving, “Wander-ful Women”

The price includes an arrival night in Paris to help you relax as you begin your adventure!

Join us for our annual excursion, just for women – With Carolyn as your personal guide and cultural interpreter, our group of “Wander-ful” adventurers will be introduced to women who have played extraordinary roles over the course of Burgundy’s history.

Are you interested, but hesitating because you don’t have a “buddy” who wants to sign on with you?  Don’t worry!  This excursion is ideal for solo travelers, as this experience is all about self-rejuvenation and making new friends!

 

Gettin’ Saucy With It

Sauces and condiments in a French gourmet shop

 The french adore sauces. It may be why their cuisine is so beloved. Who doesn’t love a good sauce? I imagine romances have been launched over the making of a perfect béarnaise.

But the classic French sauces are a subject for another day. Today we are going to lighten things up a little, and give you two spring sauces that will serve you well for the festive summery season ahead (estival in French). Both have endless variations, and can be whipped up in a flash--don't even think about getting that measuring cup out of the cabinet.

The first sauce I discovered  at a restaurant, when I was about 20, and we are not going to talk about how long ago THAT was. I was served the simplest of salads: butter lettuce, topped with a sliced boiled egg, a pinkish creamy dressing, and some chopped chives. Magnifique! I rushed home and mixed up a version that was  as close as I could get and I've been making that dressing/sauce ever since, pimping it up as desired.

The sauce is great as a salad dressing, a dipping sauce for French fries, and it's  really good with cold shellfish or other seafood. The basic ingredients are below. I've since learned that there  are as many possible additions as there are chefs, and many cultures make some version of it.

•  mayo
•  ketchup,  or chili sauce
• something acidic to thin it 
• sea salt and fresh ground pepper
• Your favorite additions (see recipe below. For my own version, a splash of brandy is the secret ingredient)

The Gullah community in Charleston call it Pink Sauce; they add grated onion to the above.

A Japanese version is happily named Yum Yum sauce. It has a similar base, with some Asian additions,  like rice vinegar and sesame oil. 

Then there is the famous Mississipi Comeback Sauce, with it's quirky name. This one is over the top and starts with the mayo/ketchup combo but includes lots of spicy additions, like wostershire sauce and paprika. 

See my own version of this international pink sauce below. The closest French equivalent to this sauce, by the way, is a remoulade sauce, with similar ingredients but with mustard instead of ketchup. It's a closer relative to what we call tarter sauce.

 The second sauce is lighter fare. It's a simple, herby, cilantro vinagerette-type sauce to put over fresh fish or vegetables or meats. Our friends Derek and Debbie, Australian/Canadian expats, served us this recently. Light and fresh and perfect for summer. Below, see what our friends put under that tasty sauce. Bonne fête!

 

RECIPE: Lynn's Pink Sauce

Serve Pink Sauce alongside any sort of dinner bowl--like this one with grilled pineapple, sauteed mushrooms, avocado and peppers.

Mix together: 2 parts mayo to one part ketchup, or use Heniz's chili sauce. Add a splash of brandy. Thin it with lemon juice to the desired consistency. Add sea salt and ground pepper to taste, and a dash of Srirscha or any hot sauce, if you want heat. I stir in some chopped fresh chives if I have them, and a small clove of cushed garlic if I want a stronger flavor, like if I'm serving it with shrimp.

You can also stir in: other favorite herbs, shallots, diced pickles, capers, whatever makes you happy. Start with the basics, and it's a sauce to play with. I make it with lime juice instead of lemon when I  serve it with a tuna poké bowl; that recipe is here. 

 

RECIPE: Derek and Debbie's Summer Salmon with Cilantro Sauce

Our second sauce, served with seafood and colorful toppers, is a great one-dish meal for a summer party. The sauce doubles as a marinade. Even if cilantro isn't your favorite, you'll find this combo as fresh as a spring breeze. Still, you could use any soft fresh herbs you like. Use a white fish instead of salmon if you prefer. No measurements needed here, just use les yeux.

For the marinade/sauce: Pour out really good olive oil, add lots of lime juice and tons of chopped cilantro. You could also make it with lemon juice, or orange; add basil or parsley or chives or some of each; throw in some garlic, or mustard, or shallots. You could add just a splash of Worcestershire, fish sauce, soy sauce, or hot sauce.

Make the sauce, reserve half and marinate the fish in the remaining half for about an hour. Sauté, grill, or bake the salmon. Plate the filets and top with roasted peppers and avocado slices. Drizzle the remaining sauce over all. 

 

Favorite READS: Karim, thank you for helping us polish up our French! For anglo reading in French, not too challenging to be discouraging, Karim recommends the author Christian Bobin. You can find some of the titles on Amazon.

Looking for Bloggers and Authors in the Southern Fried French community! Are you a blogger or an author who writes about anything related to the South or to France? Many of our readers are--and if you are one of them, I'd love for you to share with us. Drop me an email about it, I'd love to talk to you about a guest post.

A Southern Chef Makes a French Tart

Bob Waggoner is one of Charleston's most fabled and beloved chefs. Trained in Paris and married to a French woman, he cooked up French specialties at the elegant Charleston Grill for many years, until he started his own Charleston cooking school. In the Kitchen with Bob Waggoner is a night of cooking, eating, and imbibing in the French way, at his atelier in the historic district. My sweet husband treated me to a class for my birthday, while we were back in Charleston.

We donned aprons and sipped white Burgundies while we prepared our feast: scallops over a bed of vegetables in a ginger infused broth to start, and roasted beef tenderloin on veggies with a veal sauce for le plat.

Les sous-chefs. Translation of Ron's apron: I'm taking care of the wine!

One good cooking tip I picked up: he always keeps an overflowing pot of stock on the stove, which he cooks for hours, even overnight if it's veal or beef. In French, stock is called the fond de cuisine, the foundation of cooking. So you are always ready to dip in, for a rich sauce or broth.  He had stuffed his stock pot with meaty bones, plus aromatics and vegetables added in later. The important part, which I had never heard, is to keep as much fat out of your stock as possible, right from the beginning.  And don't let it boil---a low simmer is good, and his pot was so low there was barely a bubble.

But the recipe I will return to often was the pear tart we had for dessert. Because it was seasonal and delicious, but also because it took all of five minutes to make, which as you know is my favorite sort of recipe, especially for entertaining. 

My photo, above, is not lovely because it was impossible to not jump right in and sample it. So go for it--fast and French is the very best way of cooking!

 

RECIPE: Bob Waggoners's Pear Tart with Pecans and Honey

Another, more patient, attendee got a better photo (photo credit)

These can cook while you're eating dinner.

Heat oven to 375. Thaw a sheet of frozen puff pastry, roll it out lightly, and cut it into single-portion sized rectangles. Core one pear for each rectangle, and slice thinly. Shingle the pears on top of the pastry. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until golden. 

Coarsely chop some pecans, about a tablespoon per serving. Toast them lightly in the oven (Bob says always toast your nuts, until they release their aroma--it makes them more flavorful. He makes batches ahead so he always has some on hand). In a small saucepan, mix them with honey to cover, plus a bit more, along with a pat of butter. Heat just until warm. Spoon the warm topping over the warm tarts and serve with vanilla ice cream. (By the way I'm also going to try this with maple syrup instead of honey, or maybe half of each, for a more caramel-y taste).

IF YOU GO: Book well ahead--as in a few months ahead. Prepare to meet some interesting people (we were 16), as well as to be charmed by your exuberant chef. The link is here.

 

Favorite READS: Karim,  I’m so glad you enjoy the blog. Musso is quite popular but I agree that he is no literary giant. Can you recommend some  books in French for us, that might be simple to read, but interesting? Or maybe other readers have recommendations, for those of us who can read in French, but slowly!

A New Way to See the French Countryside

If you travel to France to experience the French countryside, you may be missing the best activity you don't read about in the guidebooks : The Sunday Village Randonnée.

Randonnée in French means a hike. The "Grand Randonnées" in France are marked French hiking trails, sometimes hundreds of kilometers long. For the serious hiker who owns hiking boots, a backpack, nordic walking poles, and an outback hat.

That would not be me. If you are a fellow casual walker, as I am, and you're in France with a Sunday morning free, then the Village Randonnée is just the ticket. Depending on the village, they may be set up for bikes and/or horseback riders as well.

Riders get ready for a randonnée in La Vineuse

Many villages and hobby or charity organizations hold these events annually, most often on Sunday mornings, so let me walk you through the one we had in our former village of La Vineuse each year, planned by the village social committee, of which we were a part.

The posters had gone up, fliers had been distributed for our event. The festivities started at 7 am at the pique nique shelter at our school/mayor's office. We set up a coffee station, trays of croissants and pain au chocolat. As our visitors arrived, they paid a small fee and were given maps of the three marked trails (a choice of one, two, or three hour walks) to pour over, while we poured the coffee.  

The serious hikers arrived first, booted up and bursting with energy despite the early hour. This was the 3-hour crowd. 

Throughout the morning and afternoon, the more casual flâneurs drifted in, dressed in t-shirts and les baskets (tennis shoes). They came in pairs, with packs of friends, or in multi-generational family groups. We set them off in convivial herds. Couples pushing strollers, hiking clubs, college kids in lycra, seniors out for a spin, they were all there. There was laughter and camaraderie as they headed off down the hill.

A view from the randonnée course in our village

Mid-morning we did our next set-up, for the finishers who were starting to trickle in (except for the 3-hour crowd, who did not trickle, but strode in energetically as if they might take in a couple of aerobic classes and some weight-lifting in the afternoon). There was wine of course, to celebrate; plus trays of cheese and saussison, and cookies. The visitors lingered to discuss their walks and share a glass.

We've done other village randonnées, and they are great fun. There's a party atmosphere as you chat with other groups along the way. We've passed through hamlets, along farm paths, by beautiful country houses and gardens, by lakes and ponds, and there is usually a château or a church along the way, hidden deep in the countryside. If there is a better way to experience la France profonde, I don't know what it is!

If you can't find a randonnée fête, these signs help you go it on your own.

IF YOU GO: If you can’t catch a planned randonnée on a week-end, you can go on your own. Most villages have marked walking paths you can take anytime; look for the large maps signposted in a central location in many villages. Or you can download randonnée maps at http://www.france-randos.com (select your language at the top). If you want to participate in a week-end randonnée event, the local tourist office is your best bet, and you will always find them in the digital or print version of the local paper.

 

In the COMMENTS: Ann, I'm hoping the French breakfast is going to help with those pesky hips too! But then again, brioche with cherry jam, Jan, could tempt me in a skinny minute. Julie, at least your dog gets you moving in the morning, they are great for that. And Colleen, isn't that French bread wonderful? They've come a long way since it was only baguettes.

Favorite READS: Our favorite book critic Natalia checks in with some great new reads. I'm always looking for books in French that are not overly difficult, and my friend Debbie got me reading Guillaume Musso. By this author, Natalia recommends Skidamarink . She says: odd title, interesting story. Musso is hugely popular in France. To read one of his in English, try his thriller, Central Park. Natalia also recommends Cara Black and her Aimee LeDuc series, mostly set in Paris. And speaking of Paris, my friend Sandi is currently immersing herself in books about the city, and she says, "Your readers will LOVE A Paris All Your Own, by Eleanor Brown. She also recommends Paris Street Tales and Paris Was Ours: Thirty-two Writers Reflect on the City of Light.

 

 

Is Breakfast the Secret to the Skinny French?

There is the famous Full English Breakfast, with eggs, beans, sausages, tomatos, mushrooms, and toast (below). There is the American breakfast: bacon and eggs, maybe some Cheerios or corn flakes or pancakes. And of course there is the uniquely American tradition of brunch. Then there is: le petit déjeuner. It’s no surprise that breakfast is different in France. Does it perhaps have something to do with why the French are thin?

The English are not as thin as the French...(photo courtesy of i am a food blog)

In France, there is no grabbing a bowl of cereal while standing at the kitchen sink. I once quizzed the Lyon Ladies (Nicole’s big group of French friends from Lyon who lunch together periodically) about le petit déjeuner. “Breakfast is an essential meal, like any other,” they told me. “It’s important to sit down for half an hour, to relax, to start the day in a stress-free manner”. On this they all emphatically agreed. Eating slow and easy: good for the body, the mind, and the diet.

And what do they eat? Mostly unsweetened yogurt, and perhaps a breakfast tartine: a baguette spread with jam or butter, or topped with a slice of gruyère.  Though these days, a pain aux céréales, a whole-grain loaf, may take the place of the baguette. The offerings at le bougangerie are likely to look like the lavish spread pictured at the top.

Breakfast is taken with an espresso of course, and maybe un jus d’orange.  This sort of light breakfast has spread across Europe, hence the English term, “continental breakfast”.

le petit déjeuner

What the French do not have is a tradition of going out for a big breakfast at a restaurant. If you want breakfast while traveling, you pop into a café, where they will offer a tartine or a croissant, served with an espresso and orange juice (though for the chic and trendy French, especially the Parisians, American style brunches are popping up). 

So now when you travel to Europe, you can order breakfast like a pro. And in the French fashion, be sure it’s leisurely!

 

RECIPE: A different sort of Breakfast

I was at my sister’s house recently, and for breakfast she pulled out a big plate of some delicious looking baked pears with pecans. “I keep some of these in the fridge all the time”, she said. “They make a great breakfast.”

Nutty, caramely baked pears for breakfast? I’m in! I made a batch right away, but I used apples instead, because that’s what I had on hand, though the pears were even better. I added oats and raisins to the filling, to make them even more  breakfast-y, and I used just a small amount of maple syrup—honey would work as well— to caramelize them. They take just a few minutes to make, and then you’ve got a fabulous breakfast to look forward to, all week.

No recipe needed really. Here’s what I did, with my sister's advice: I cored the apples and cut them in half, and brushed them with maple syrup (or use honey). Then I put a handful of chopped pecans in a bowl with another handful of regular oatmeal. Raisins are a nice addition too. I added plenty of cinnamon (pumpkin pie spice, if you prefer), and just enough maple syrup to hold it all together. Add a sprinkle of cinnamond and bake them until they are as soft as you like; mine took 45 minutes, but pears might be quicker. We preferred them chilled, but zap them in the microwave if you wish.

This is a healthier version of the traditional baked apples, which are loaded with butter and sugar and are typically slathered with whipped cream or ice cream. Instead, fruit, nuts oats, minimal sugar— a breakfast fit even for the French! 

 

For other breakfast recipes, a bit more decadent, check out this post on cinnamon biscuits,  this post on baked eggs, or this post on morning buns.

In the COMMENTS: Your comments on Emily were most entertaining! I think y’all are equally split on loving or hating this “candy-coated romp”, as Jan calls it.  I think my friend Nancy got it right—she alternates between watching “Emily in Paris” and “I Am A Killer”. Cuts the sweetness a bit. And Susan V., I’m with you in that the little digs at the French AND the Americans keep us amused. Meanwhile, Francine and Jan mentioned some good French Netflix alternatives, which I’ve listed below.

Favorite READS & VIEWS : A friend has given me a copy of Suite Francaise, which I'm looking forward to reading. For French or French-themed shows on Netflix, our readers recommend Lupin, Call My Agent! (Dix pour cent in French), Balthazar (violent) and Paul Hollywood's Big Continental Road Trip. One more for you: We are really enjoying the charming French crime series Candice Renoir, about a single mom of 4 who is a detective. Find it on Acorn TV, where you can find lots of British and French shows.

 

 

Much Ado about Emily

We’ve weighed in before on Emily in Paris (you can read my original season 1 letter to Emily here), but she is causing such a stir again, it must be time to take another look. Season 3 of the show that people love to hate but watch anyway has arrived. So, fellow Francophiles, what do you think?

Is it a great show or what? True, it does depict Paris as a sort of perfect fairy tale kingdom. And yes, Emily SHOULD be speaking French by now. Bien sûr, it tosses around every French stereotype and cliché that ever existed, some true and some awful. For sure it makes American expats look bad. And no, if you worked in Paris at an entry level marketing job, you could NOT afford clothes like Emily’s. Unless, like Emily, you could conquer complex French luxury branding in little puffs of instant inspiration, without even speaking the language.

Emily's candy-colored, Disney-fied, Paris

 My take is, it’s all much ado about nothing. The show is a silly, sugary bit of Franco-American fluff that, for all its faults, is great fun to watch. I do have great sympathy, however, for Parisian residents who’ve had their favorite haunts overrun by the new Emily tourist crowds, desperate to replicate some of her experiences.

But let’s talk about those clothes! Even my husband, who has zero interest in fashion, tunes in for the fashion parade alone. A zebra get-up with giant wings! A hot pink confection that seems to be raining flowers!  Plunging black cut-out dresses that seem to be held together by air and a prayer! And that’s before we get to the French scenery porn. It’s a French feast for the eyeballs.

Below: Emily as a flying zebra, frothy in feathers, wrapped in ruffles, and bow-tied. Plus Mindy and Camille, in the (very) Little Black Dress.

 

My favorite deliciously cynical take on the show comes from sassy French academic Arthur Asseraf, a Parisian who watches while doing a live twitter feed commentary—“I suffer so you don’t have to,” he quips. He settles down to watch the show with this tweet:  “I’ve poured myself two glasses: one is full of wine and the other is full of righteous judgment, and I’m double-fisting hard.”

He also proposes an Emily drinking game: every time there is a gratuitous shot of the Eiffel tower or a person wearing a béret, you take a sip. Having tried it ourselves, we can tell you that you are going to need a very large glass of wine. His favorite scene is a double hit, a shot of the Eiffel tower with a guy walking by in a béret. “Take two sips and kiss your dog!”, says Arthur exuberantly.

Drink up! Emily sports a béret.

So how about you, dear readers? Is Emily your favorite show, or is it your French nightmare? Or maybe a little of both? 

 

In the COMMENTS: Natalia, a French teacher once told me that the subjonctif tense is going away slowly because the young people don't use it. Problem solved, I'm declaring myself young! Holly, the cookie cutters came from Amazon, they have every shape you can imagine. Colleen, hope you feel better and best of luck with your new children's book, It's a Rainforest, which we featured in the last post. Chris, looking forward to trying that oatmeal bread. Anne, be sure to send photos of those cookies.

Favorite READS: Next up on my reading list is The Billionaire's Vinegar, which my husband is currently reading, about the most expensive and famous bottle of wine ever made. And while we're on a Paris theme this week: Like Natalia, I've read Ann Mah's Jaqueline in Paris, which she is loving. Chris recommends Paris by the Book, by Liam Callanan, a mystery novel about love and loss. 

 

 

A "Sablé" for Every Season

Every Christmas I buy pounds of butter and make mounds of sugar cookies—as I’m sure many of you do—which in France are called sablés. The American and French recipes are similar, though the sablés I buy in French boulangeries are slightly drier and less sweet than our sugar cookies, and equally delicious.

I love decorating the cookies as a group project—this year with my daughter and sister. We are not pros but we like to get creative. We were pretty proud of our wreaths, below (an idea we stole from Instagram--directions for those are here).

But decorated sugar cookies are not just for Christmas. They can make any occasion festive. I have a variety of cookie cutter shapes which are now overflowing in my cabinet. You can get the letters of the alpabet to spell out a name or phrase; my daughter has a tic-tac-toe set. Any theme is possible. And last year I bought a simple decorating kit for just a few euros, which made it all SO much easier.

So shall we broaden our sablé horizon? How about heart shapes for your Valentine this year? For our beloved châtelain Pierre, I made châteaux for his birthday one year (see below). I did French-themed cookies for a party for a friend who was off to France for a month (pictured above). And at a French village flea market we sometimes set up a booth to benefit my cat rescue group, and I made the cookies you will see in the recipe below, to sell at the market.

My secret for making them delicious is to use lemon juice instead of milk for the icing. My daughter likes to add almond extract instead. Sugar cookies can be chocolate too, or other flavors, like the caramel-y castles above.  And while you have to be a bit of an artiste to make the fancy ones like you see on Pinterest, don’t be deterred. My daughter and I didn't get the  painterly gene, but we managed to turn out something respectable. If we can do it, anyone can. It’s like getting in touch with your inner child, no skill required.

My Thanksgiving dessert platter, with turkeys, leaves and pumpkins

I decorated this batch for Christmas in a hurry: no food coloring necessary.

 

RECIPE: Chocolate Sugar Cookies

For regular sugar cookies, I use this recipe from Ina Garten or this one from Sally's Baking Addiction. Or try a French sablé recipe like this one.  Most of the recipes are very similar, but this chocolate variation (from Melissa Clark) is different and quite good. I've included three icing recipes as well.

• 2 cups/255 grams all-purpose flour
• ½ cup/40 grams unsweetened Dutch-processed cocoa powder
• ⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1 cup/225 grams salted butter, preferably European-style butter (2 sticks), softened
• ⅔ cup/135 grams granulated sugar
• 1 large egg yolk

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa powder and salt.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat together butter and sugar until smooth. Beat in yolk, scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary. Mix in flour mixture until just combined. Form dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 3 days.

Once chilled, remove plastic wrap and sandwich dough between two sheets of parchment paper. Roll it out into a 1/3-inch-thick slab. Leaving dough between the parchment, place it on a  plate and refrigerate for 30 minutes (or up to 24 hours).

Heat oven to 325 degrees, and line two cookie sheets with parchment paper, or a Silpat.

Pull dough from refrigerator, and remove parchment from dough. Cut out as many cookies as possible.  Transfer them to the prepared cookie sheets. Reroll the dough scraps and repeat (my tip: if they stick, instead of flouring your hands, the board, or the cutters, use dry cocoa).

Bake cookies for 15 to 22 minutes, until puffed and set, rotating the cookie sheets halfway through. Transfer pans to wire racks to cool completely.

 

For the icing: Use the lemon for regular sugar cookies, and either of the others for the chocolate ones.

Lemon: Mix 3 cups confectioners sugar with 1 tablespoon meringue powder (the powder is optional, but helps the icing set up better). Stir in fresh squeezed lemon juice (it will take several tablespoons) and beat until icing is very smooth. Stir in food coloring. Icing shouldn’t be so thick that it’s hard to stir , and a bit slow to drip, sort of like honey. Almond: As above, but use milk instead of lemon juice and add 1 teaspoon almond extract.

Chocolate: Melt 6 oz  dark or white chocolate. Frost cookies and top with sprinkles or colored sugar.

My Francophile cookie set

Next project: Charleston coastal cookies!

 

Favorite READS: Félicitations to our loyal reader, the artist Colleen Taylor, who has a new book out! It's a Rainforest is a children's book with illustrations by Colleen. Check it out, it's gorgeous!

 

 

Bits of French Wisdom for a Happy New Year

My friend Sandi in Charleston  is a book collector. Her house is full of books, old and new, from floor to ceiling. She's started selling old Charleston and southern themed books on her Etsy site, Charleston Ink and Art, so she is always on the prowl.

So as a gift, she gave me a real find: a little antique tome called "French Wit and Wisdom", stuffed with quotes from famous French authors of another era. The original price is printed on the leaf inside: $1.00 (which speaks to how old it is: 72 years to be exact).

This is perfect since we are in Charleston for Christmas this year, and I won't be able to share the  French quotes from the wrappers of the chocolate papillotes as I usually do (like this former post, and this one).  This little book is actually in English, but as usual I've got some French homework for you--I've posted  the quotes in French,  too, so you can practice. (Exception: no translation for a couple of quotes because I could not locate the original citation in French).

I've picked a sampler for you. Some of the quotes are appropriate and cautionary for our scary world at the moment, and some are just good advice. Inspiration for your new year's resolutions maybe? Joyeux Noel et Bonne anneé to all!

Here are some some wise quotes that seem right on target for our difficult and polarized times: 

Politeness acts as a guard over the rough edges on our character, preventing them from harming others. We should never lay it aside, even in contact with coarse people.—Joubert

La politesse est une sorte d'émoussoir qui enveloppe les aspérités de notre caractère et empêche que les autres n'en soient blessés.

 

In those countries where the morals are the most dissolute, the language is the most severe; as if they would replace on the lips what has deserted the heart—Voltaire

 

A sovereign is called a tyrant who knows no law but his caprice.—Voltaire

On appelle tyrant le souverain qui ne connaît de lois que son caprice.

 

Anyone who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.—Voltaire

Ceux qui peuvent vous faire croire à des absurdités peuvent vous faire commettre des atrocités.

 

Religious zeal is a a pure and enlightened attachment to worship of the Divinity and its maintenance and progress; but when it grows blind and false and takes to persecution, it becomes the greatest scourge of humanity.—Voltaire 

 

Prejudice is the reason of fools.—Voltaire

Le préjugé est une opinion sans jugement.

 

Narcissists, like dwarfs, have the stature of a child with the face of a man.—Joubert

Les orgueilleux me semblent avoir, comme les nains, la taille d'un enfant et la contenance d'un homme. 

 

And some life lessons:

 

Jest with Life; that's all it's good for.—Voltaire

Je joue avec la vie, madame; elle n'est bonne qu'à cela. 

 

The more one judges, the less one loves.—Balzac

Plus on juge, moins on aime. 

 

We should wear our velvet next to the skin--that is we should be the most amiable and agreeable to those of our own family.—Joubert

Il faut porter son velours en dedans, c'est-à-dire, montrer son amabilité de préférence à ceux avec qui l'on vit chez soi. 

 

Had we ourselves no faults we should find less pleasure in discovering them in others.—Rochefoucauld

Si nous n'avions pas tant de défauts, nous ne prendrions pas tant de plaisir à en remarquer chez les autres.

 

We never live; we are always in expectation of living.--Voltaire

Nous ne vivons jamais, nous attendons la vie.

 

The most completely lost of all days is the one on which we have not laughed.—Chamfort

La plus perdue de toutes les journées est celle où l'on n'a pas ri. 

 

Merry Christmas and the happiest new year to all!

A Christmas scene, spotted on a village house in Burgundy

P.S. No new recipe today, but I did stumble across a recipe for my Lucky New Year's Pie, which made an appearance in a guest post for Kristin Espinasse's French-Word-A-Day way back in 2010. Some years back we decided to forget the Hoppin' John and make something with Gran Marnier every New Year's day, for some sweet good luck. And so far it's working! Lately I've been making a Gran Marnier soufflé, but this year I'll go back to this Lucky Gran Marnier pie recipe, loved and lost.

 

Favorite READS: I have one more quote from the book for you, from Joubert: "The one drawback of new books is that they prevent our reading old ones."  Le grand inconvénient des livres nouveaux est de nous empêcher de lire les anciens. In that case, why not revisit the ultimate French classic, Le Petit Prince, as I did recently--I hadn't read it since my high school French class. Better yet, read it to your kids or grandkids. or even more fun, you can find Le Petit Prince on youtube, narrated by Kenneth Branaugh, with the simple illustrations in the book brought to life with animation.

 

 

 

An Overnight Pilgrimage

“The sun was coming up. There was a thick mist hanging over the valley, and I could see the treetops piercing through it here and there. Up above, the village stood, like a pyramid reflecting the light. It was a magnificent sight, and it was full of admiration that I made for the Church of St. Madeleine.”—Prosper Mérimée, 1836

 

If you are a any sort of francophile (or of a religious persuasion), you have no doubt heard of the pilgrimage town of Vézelay, in the northwest corner of Burgundy.

As I’ve said before, one of my favorite things about living in France, and in La Bourgogne in particular, is the ability to go to an exciting new area, or even another country, for a week-end trip. We hadn’t been to Vézelay in a couple of decades, so when our dear friends Carol and Bill came to see us, off we went for a brief séjour, pilgrims for a day.

So what’s so special about Vézelay? A lot.

First of all, it’s not every church that (reportedly) has relics of such a famous saint, or that has been around since the 9th century. Pilgrims have been visiting La Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine for 1000 years. It’s now a Unesco World Heritage site. It’s still a common starting point for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain (if you’re up for a VERY long walk). The town has a long and rich history, as the originating point of crusades, a medieval mecca, and more.

The Basilica, a 12th century Romanesque masterpiece of a monastic cathedral, sits on top of the “Eternal Hill” that is the town. Most of the small village, which is packed with charm, is set along the one main road that leads from the base of the town, steeply, up to the church.

A visit to the inside of the church will surely fill you with awe, then you can descend to the small chapel below ground where the relics are kept. Behind the church is a jaw-dropping view of the lush rolling hills of the Morvan.

Semur-en-Auxois is on the way, so we did a quick pass through and gazed at the town from its perfect viewpoint. We also wandered through nearby Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, which is where the famous movie Chocolat was filmed (Johnny Depp, Juliette Binoche, Judi Dench. We watched it again, to put us in the mood for our trip).

IF YOU GO: In Vézelay we stayed at the very pleasant Hotel de la Poste et du Lion d'or. It was right at the base of the hill so you will have to walk up to the church. It’s mostly a pedestrian road but when we went to dinner we managed to drive up and park behind the church. In the past we’ve stayed a few miles away at a marvelous château, called Chateau d'Island.

If you pass through Semur, don’t miss lunch at Cuisine de la Fontaignotte, farm-fresh food with  a terrace that has a sweeping view of this exceptionally beautiful town.

In Flavigny, we got a very casual lunch on the Place near the church—picnic tables outside, and self-service—at La Grange, billed as a farm-to-table place, and it was quite a fun  pique-nique in the sunshine.

 

Vézelay:

Here is La Basilique de Sainte-Marie-Madeleine

 

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain:

This is the entry gate to the village

 

Lovely architectural details were everywhere

 

Our friend Bill peeps inside the window that was the chocolate shop in the movie Chocolat

 

This was a photo-op in a little square, and the first and last time you will see my husband in drag

 

Semur-en-Auxois:

One of the most beautiful towns in France, with dramatic views all round. You can read my previous post with more photos of Semur here.

 

 

Favorite READS: Speaking of French travels, who doesn't love Provence? Our book expert extraordinaire Natalia recommends An American in Provence by Jamie Beck. On a road trip recently, Ron and I listened to two Peter Mayle audiobooks, French Lessons and Twenty-five Years in Provence. I recommend the audiobooks because the readers, with their posh English accents, deliver the dry British humor with aplomb.