An American Artist Chooses the Beauty of Umbria

This week, a guest blog by painter Patricia Glee, who lives in Umbria with her Italian husband. I've had the privilege of touring her town, and her studio. She spends months on each painting, and the outcome is magnificent.  See them at Patricia Glee Works.  Patricia also writes for the daily blog The Italian Notebook–subscribe for your Italy fix!

I am a painter, and have been living in Italy for many years. How I ended up here is a long story. The reason I stay is another, but simpler.

As an artist, I could cite the light, which is lovely; but beautiful light can be found all over the world. Perhaps it is the combination of many things conducive to creativity (for me): a warm, mellow light, great antiquity, which creates a feeling of continuity, a slower lifestyle. Italy enjoys an ancient culture in which beauty, friends, good conversation and good food are still important ingredients.

After living for many years in Rome, I moved to a more peaceful setting in Umbria, the region just to the north. My tiny medieval village (Otricoli) is perched on a hilltop overlooking the wide Tiber valley, rimmed on the far side by hills, blue in the distance. We possess our very own Roman ruins: Ocriculum was a river port that shipped the renowned oil and wine of Umbria to all of Italy. The city was wealthy and while the ruins are extensive, excavation has been negligible. Fragments of stately buildings emerge from vineyards and fields, sheltering grazing sheep or an occasional horse. The placid Tiber winds slowly through them, euphemistically called “blond”, though in fact it is mud colored (like the Mississippi of my past).

Life here is unhurried; not a place for dynamic people, but perfect for creative souls. The villagers are mainly supportive and curious. Food shopping is done daily in the many tiny shops. The women (it is they who cook) are fastidious and possibly related to the shop owners, so the standard is high! Shopping takes a while, because it includes gossip, inquiries after health and perhaps coffee at one of the 3 coffee bars in town. Children are admired, advice of all kinds given (only when asked), the weather deplored (whatever the season), and politics lamented.

The food is typical of this rustic region, still fairly undiscovered by tourists. Some of the specialties are truffles and wild mushrooms, pork in the form of prosciutto and sausages made locally, and a high quality of lamb, beef and poultry. There is an abundance of pasta, hearty soups made with a grain called farro, grilled meats, a profusion of vegetables, and fresh ricotta cheese – all dressed with local olive oil and accompanied by local wines. Food is simple and eaten in season, creating anticipation for seasonal products. As in most of Italy, sweets are present mainly at holidays and are typically sweet breads, jam tarts or cookies made with red wine and olive oil (delicious!).

The two restaurants in town are always full and the owners know what you like. And if you want something that is not on the menu, they will usually make it for you.

All in all, life is good here, cherished and nurtured by villagers who maintain and appreciate the sleepy old ways. Plus a few newcomers who approve.

 Recipe: Rustic Wine Cookies (Biscotti al Vino)

• 3 cups all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup dry red wine
• a pinch of salt
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• sugar for rolling

Preheat oven to 350 (180) degrees. Combine flour, sugar, baking power and salt (I add a pinch of cinnamon). Add wine and oil.

Mix well. Roll large walnut size balls between hands, and roll balls in extra sugar. Place on oiled cookie sheet, flatten, and bake for about 25 minutes. When cookies are cool, they should be hard and crisp on the outside.  A tablespoon (or to taste) of anise seed is sometimes added. note: use the best olive oil you can find!

Grazia, Patricia, for sharing your life with us!

Favorite reads: I love books about expats living in European countries.  This very funny book turns the tables: Beppe Severnini is an Italian who comes to live in the states. His wit and sharp observations make this a super read. Click on the link to order Ciao, America!: An Italian Discovers the U.S.

In the Comments this past week: Lots of opinions about those skinny French!  Be sure to read Mark's funny video story and Gerard's international weight problem.  Gretel bemoans refrigerator hoovering, and Caterina says, even a snack looks bigger if you eat it sitting down versus standing in the kitchen! Maureen ticks off our American sins–think donuts and burgers. Kim in France and Suzanne who visits cite the fresh food there, sans preservatives, as a good thing. Mindy and Norma think walking is the key, Julie thinks it's the slower pace of life. All true. Tuula has my problem with pastry overload. Stay tuned for the next installment!

Unless otherwise attributed, all POSTS, PHOTOS and RECIPES on this blog copyright ©2010 Lynn McBride.  All Rights Reserved.