Southern Fried French

Fish Tea, and Other Oddities

A couple of years ago our châtelaine, Nicole, her cousin, our friend Belinda and I hopped on a plane for a girls' trip to Scotland. Recently I came across my photos of the trip. And sifting through them, I was reminded of this: the Scots have a twinkle in their eye. Quirky customs and a cheeky sense of humor are in full display. See the photo of the weather forecasting station above, for the perfect example, which we spotted on a fence in a scotch distillery we visited.

The Scots are friendly, funny, no-nonsense sorts of folks. And I guess you need a sense of humor to live in a place with weather that we might politely call, frickin' freezing. We had the good fortune to have sunny, 70 degree days during most of our visit, but we were repeatedly told that we were lucky to have arrived during the "three days of Scottish summer." And walking along the North Sea in Saint Andrews was about as  bone chilling as a June day can get.

Really, though, Scotland should be on your bucket list. It’s a wild and gorgeous country. And, as I hope my photos will show you, the Scots aim to make you smile.

 

The name of this restaurant says it all, and simply.

 

"True Scotsman" is the term used for a Scot wearing a kilt with nothing under it. And kilts are everywhere...

 

...Including on this apron for the ladies. Note the sign says, "Men's version also available." Wonder what that looks like?

 

A fanciful garden gnome

 

I will take a pass on the" fish tea" (though, as it turns out, it means fish and chips with a pot of tea and buttered bread so you can make a 'chip butty', which is a fish sandwich).

 

LOL

 

We stood on this very spot on the Loch Ness, and looked (in vain) for Nessie

 

We spotted this cow on a street in Edinburgh. But where was the other half? 

 

 

It was right around the corner, on Cowgate street.

 

The decor in a Scottish castle, oh my.

 

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Whimsy in a bakery shop window.

 

They have some funny looking cows. That's Nicole keeping one of the friendly and hairy Highland cows at bay.

 

 

A see-through building on the North Sea.

 

They take their baked potatoes very seriously.

 

 

Haggis is defined as "a Scottish dish consisting of a sheep's or calf's offal mixed with suet, oatmeal, and seasoning and boiled in a bag made from the animal's stomach". You've got to wonder about a country that would bake this up in a pie.

 

A Scottish dog, with lion-sized delusions of grandeur.

 

A peacock joined us at the table next to us at lunch.

 

In the COMMENTS:Julie, that sounds like the perfect French day. And Carolyn, too,  has a very poetic description of market day in Beaune. Susan J, I’ve never been to Mexico but it sounds like I need to visit. Paula, I love the description, “la douceur de la vie”. To Parisbreakfast, it’s true the American chains are stealthily invading France, but they are (so far) not nearly so numerous as in the States, and even fewer are in the French countryside. Tom, I’ve also found it to be true that there are lots of social gatherings in the countryside—and they can be quite long, the French love to bavarder! Nathalie, bonjour à vous, Tino et Titi.

 

Favorite READS: Natalia has another book for us francophiles, A Bakery in Paris, a historical family saga. Susan V likes The Greater Journey, Americans in Paris. --David McCullough's book about the creative Americans who traveled to, and fell in love with, Paris. And you will want to visit the blog of our reader Carol , who writes this week in ParisBreakfasts about the Salon du Chat in Paris. You are going to love her sketches, watercolors, and letters which are available on Etsy. 

 

 

 

The Ultimate French Lifestyle Photo? The Winner is...

 

The photos juxtaposed above are amusing, and extraordinary. Ron found these photos on  the site Frenchly (but regrettably I can't find the original source).  I have never seen anything that captures, so perfectly, the differences in American and French life. Folks often ask why we moved here--see above for the answer. 

Let's break it down a bit--the photos tell a complex story.

France: Let's go get a coffee! In Paris alone, you will have about 13,000 outdoor cafés to choose from. We walk over to one of many near us in Beaune. Love that espresso--a pretty cup and saucer, a little cookie served on the side, we bask in the sun under a parosol, and often friends pass by to chat.

USA: We hit the Starbucks--McDonald's in a pinch--for a styrofoam go-cup to drink in the car. See photo above. I don't know about your town, but in Charleston I'm having trouble coming up with a whole bunch of charming coffee shops with outdoor terraces. Nothing near that 13,000 number!

 

Slow food in France: Time for lunch! We wander out to an intimate bistro, where we dine and drink for a couple of hours. The working crowd is here too, along we the retired.

Fast food in the USA: the fast food restaurants are everywhere, in town and country and strip malls. Grab lunch and go--maybe eat at your desk or in your car. And the architecture of these places? See photo at top. 

Lunch at a French bistro

France, transport: we walk to get a coffee or a meal, most of the time. Easy because there are so many boulanageries, cafés, bistros.

USA: we get in our car.

Ron shares an espresso with his friend Christophe

 

Now I know this is a bit unfair. Fast food drive-throughs exist in France, though they are few and far between. And the US has plenty of nice restaurants and coffee shops too, but because the US is more suburban than urban, they usually require a car trip. 

In the end, the great French lifestyle is what it's all about. In France, leisure, social and family time are precious. Work, ambition and material goods take a back seat to pleasure and relaxation. They don't have worries about who will pay for their health care or retirement, as their taxes and systems take care of all this for them. They are surrounded by beauty. Could this sociable, active, lower stress lifestyle be why France spends half what the US does on health care, yet the French live longer? I think they're on to something!

So, dear readers, what do you see in these lifestyle photos?

 

In the COMMENTS: Emily, I got a kick out of hearing that your friend adopted all 5 kittie--je comprend! More in a future post, though, about how to foster without keeping every adorable kitten. Anne  Marie, no lapin for me either! Colleen, have a wonderful trip. Tom has just taken a group on a great and impressively thorough tour of Burgundy, I'm glad it was fun!

Favorite READS: Natalia, who always supplies us with the best French related books, has a really good one for us, called The Paris Assignment. Julie makes a great case for reading Long Ago in France, which I will do as I have discovered the delights of our nearby city of Dijon as well. And our reader Anne Marie has just published a book! It's called Being Bunny, and it's about her experience with rabbits as (wonderful!) pets.

And speaking of bunnies, many of you are already familiar with the beautiful artwork and children's books of our loyal reader Colleen Taylor. But did you know she does greeting cards too? There is a selection of beautiful cards, and amazingly you can add a personal note/signature in your own handwriting, all on line! She paints lots of animals, and here is her bunny card. See this card and more here.

 

 

A "Tartine" That's Over the Top

If you have ever sat in a French café and ordered breakfast, you have probably encountered the word tartine. When talking about le petit déjeuner, it refers to a split baguette with butter and jam.

But in France a tartine can also be an open face sandwich on a slice of baguette. Sort of the French version of an Italian bruschetta but with French ingredients. A baguette slice spread with goat cheese and topped with strawberries, for example, or buttered and topped with thinly sliced radishes and chives. Though you’ll see lots of recipes for them in the food magazines, they are not particularly common in France, except perhaps for a fancy apéro.

In France, tartines usually have a base of a soft cheese like goat or ricotta, like these with roasted cherries and thyme.

But we visited Denmark this summer, where the smørrebrød, which is the Danish version of an open faced sandwich, is everywhere. And it dazzles! There are entire restaurants devoted to smørrebrød--we ate in one, see Ron digging in, above. They look  stunning, and I have never seen sandwiches quite like them. I was completely blown away at an indoor market especially, where multiple versions were displayed in a glass case, like so many colorful jewels. They are culinary works of art.

 

I was not fond of the traditional base of the smørrebrød, which is a dry, thinly-sliced sourdough rye, heavy and dark, called rugbrød. Its density evolved due to the origin of the sandwich. The back story is, farm workers used to pile leftovers onto stale bread to put in their lunch boxes, the bread supporting the whole thing. The advantage to dry or toasted bread is that you can make the sandwich ahead without the bread getting soggy. The smørrebrød is always spread generously with butter first, to give it another layer of protection. When I make these myself I will use regular sandwich rye or pumpernickel, and toast it. Toasted baguette slices would work as well. 

These beauties were the exception, made with toasted white bread.

 

When making or eating the smørrebrød--there are rules! Butter the bread first, then add thin toppings, then the beefier ones. Use only one protein per sandwich; proteins are not mixed, even cheese with meat. Any protein can be a player, even meatballs or fried fish. Layer on something crunchy (radish slices, celery, onions) and shower some fresh herbs on top. Garnish lavishly.

If eating several at a time, which is the custom, go in the proper order: start with their beloved pickled herring, then other seafoods or boiled eggs, then on to the meat, veggies, and finally those with cheese. Use your knife and fork to eat them.

 

Danish avocado toasts, garnished with groseilles and red onions.

 

We must try these at home! So, lay your base with your favorite toasted bread, put on your artist's hat, and get creative with those toppings. I took lots of photos to inspire us!

 

The salmon salad is garnished with rye bread crusts, peaches, and pea shoots

 

Chicken salad with mushrooms and chervil, topped with bacon. (This one breaks the 2 protein rule!)

 

The tartare has capers, eggs, and a mustardy pickled-veggie relish. The potato one has crispy onions & thyme

 

 

Shrimp with lemon, chives--and pansies

 

Roast beef with horseradish, red onions and fried onions, pickles, and a vinegar/mustard sauce

 

An open-faced meatball sub with potato salad, chives, and tomato

 

Velbekomme, and bon appétit!

 

In the COMMENTS:  Anne, I hope you and your better 3/4 will get to France next year. Maybe Beaune? Natalia, you have a great idea, I haven't re-read Peter Mayle in years, and it will be great fun to do so, since my memoire is not what it used to be. Sandy, it seems impossible that I've never read MFK Fisher, and I plan to start with your suggestion, merci.

Once in a while I have the pleasure of meeting my far-away readers. Francine and Jean from Portland, it was lovely to meet you last week!

 And for our occasional feature, Be Kind to Your Fellow Animals, I have this suggestion, for anyone who is bored, depressed, or just needs a lift: try fostering! Animal shelters are always in need of folks to house animals temporarily or to socialize feral ones, while waiting on adoption. It's also a good way to try out a pet to see if it's a good fit. I fostered and socialized abandoned kittens for a couple of years, and it was SO much fun, and rewarding. (But beware of foster failures! We have one, called Vino Bambino). And yes it's hard to give them up, but it's so gratifying to know you've saved the life of an animal and sent them off to a forever home. You can read more about fostering here.

The photos below are some litters I've fostered. The last one on the left, the sassy gray one trimmed in white, kept sneaking out of the "nursery"  bedroom for snuggles, and in the end refused to leave.

 

 

 

Bikes and Brooms in Provence

A famous fountain in Aix-en-Provence

 I am a total misfit in my immediate family. My family is what you would call sportif, in French. But that's an understatement. My eldest stepdaughter is at the top of the heap, she’s an internationally rated triathlete. Our small group is also into cycling, windsurfing, kiteboarding, sailing, rock climbing, hang gliding--the list goes on. Just this month, for example, my adventurous granddaughter has been sky-diving from a helicopter, bungee jumping, cliff diving, spelunking, and white water rafting. Meanwhile, my idea of a perfect day is a nice stroll, a luxury hotel, and a decadent lunch, ideally followed by a nap.

So when our daughter and granddaughter came to visit this month, they decided they might like to ride their bikes from our house in Beaune down to Marseilles. This, by the way, is about 500 km. So Ron, our younger daughter and I signed up to be the voiture-balai, known in English as the broom car or the sag-wagon. Since these two cyclistes extraordinaires never sagged or needed sweeping up, basically we were luggage schleppers. Amazingly they got up at 6 a.m. and were done by lunchtime every day, so we had plenty of time to sightsee together. 

Every journey begins with a single pedal. Here is Team Watts, leaving from Beaune.

Which gives me an excuse to give you a mini tour of Aix-en-Provence, a two-day stop on our trip. We have visited there a gazillion times, and it’s always a treat.

Aix (pronounced, “X”), is a big American and British destination, ever since it was popularized by Peter Mayle’s first book, A Year in Provence. He loved to sit and people-watch at the bistro Les Deux Garcons. We did too until it went up in flames a couple of years ago, and they are still in the process of rebuilding it. We look forward to seeing its next incarnation.

A side-street in Aix

 Aix is famous for having the most beautiful main street in Europe, Le Cours Mirabeau, which has a series of roundabouts with stunning fountains. It’s a lively town because there’s a university there, plus plenty of tourists of course. Aix is the  former capital of Provence, and has a long and rich history.

Another fountain along Le Cours Mirabeau

 

Come for the architectural details alone

 

The luxury hotel of my dreams is in Aix, but this being a sporty trip, we stayed at a much more reasonable and practical spot.

We did discover a classy joint which is my favorite new restaurant in Aix, at the Hotel de Caumont. It’s not actually a hotel, it’s a decorative arts museum with rotating art exhibits that you can tour, and it has beautiful formal gardens. You can lunch in the jardin in their gorgeous enclosed courtyard with a divine salad, and pretend that you are one of those elegant French elites who summers in the sunny Luberon. It was here we chose to take our official team photo.

Lunching in the jardin

the formal garden

So what does one do in Aix besides eat very well? Here are a few items from my list.

 

— people-watch at a bistro on Cours Mirabeau with an Aperol spritz in hand.

— get lost in the narrow winding streets, where you can shop in the tantalizing boutiques and gaze at the lovely architecture.

— check out Cézanne's Atelier, and then take the marked pedestrian walk that takes you to his hang-outs.

--there are a number of museums, and there is a market or brocante somewhere every day in Aix.

My grandaughter Jess demonstrating an essential Cours Mirabeau activity

If you go:  if you are feeling flush, book at the  five-star Villa Gallici  (a Relais and Château) and pamper yourself to the max. This time we stayed at a three-star hotel, L'Hotel de Concorde. Well located and pleasant. We’ve also stayed at the Best Western (quatre étoiles), which is right off the main street.

 

In the COMMENTS: We have great recommendations this week. Paula says a podcast called the Gilded Gentleman, the Riviera episode, gives a history of the Villa Rothschilds. Also Christine has another garden for us, Les Jardins of Marqueyssac, in the Dorgogne. I have been there, long ago—fabulous! A reminder that I want to go again.Our reader Francine has kindly suggested a webinar which tells you all about the details of moving to France, which you can find here.

Favorite READS: if you would like to experience Provence virtually, I recommend A Year in Provence or any of Peter Mayle's other books, and the fun movie, A Good Year. Readers, I'm sure you have more ideas.

I am a fan of the "cozy" or romantic mystery genres--interesting characters, a sense of place, and very little blood (think author Mary Stewart, or Midsommer or Inspector Lewis, on TV). My latest read, The Paris Mystery by Kristy Manning, is  just what this book is, and it's an entertaining one, too.

We have some good book recommendations from readers as well. Natalia likes Nina George's The Little Villlage of Booklovers. Paula suggests The Retreat, by Sara Pearse, a mystery; and The Gown, by Jennifer Robson, a historical novel. Merci, keep those ideas coming!

 

Four Weddings and A Garden

 

Once upon a time, a very rich and beautiful Baroness with a grand house in Paris (and the obligatory château in the countryside), born in 1864, decided to construct her personal fantasy. She picked the most beautiful spot: the tip top of a peninsula on the Mediterranean that looked out over the dramatic scenery of the Cote d'Azur, and made it her winter home. She built a pink Cinderella-worthy confection of a villa, and circled it with with a series of lush themed gardens--Japanese, Italian, French, Mexican--all profiting from a 360 degree view of the azure blue waters of the Med. From all over Europe, she gathered up (some would say plundered) trainloads of antique architectural elements, statuary, columns, etc. for the garden. A year before her death, she bequeathed it all to the Academie de Beaux Arts, so all could visit.

The Italian garden

A view from inside the villa

 

The views are stunning

 We visit the gardens of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild every time we are in Cap Ferrat, to see what's blooming and to immerse ourselves in the late Baroness' fantasy. This time, we arrived not long before closing time and they were in the final throes of setting up a wedding that was the fantasy of one lucky bride and groom. One of the outdoor stairways was bedecked with thousands of white roses. Then, gasp, the bride! Arriving early for photos. She wore a train of such fluff and froth that it took two guys, trailing behind her, to carry it. 

The scene of the nuptials:

 Mademoiselle arrives:

But oops! Raindrops start to fall just before the ceremony.

Sadly we were kicked out at this point. But it got me thinking, they must do weddings there often. A quick search revealed some ceremonies that I am pretty sure set Daddy back something in excess of the cost of our house. Here are a few of the photos, of how People Not Like Us get married, in the most beautiful villa on the Mediterranean. If you could use a little French daydreaming to perk you up today, you're in luck!

 

How’s this for a set up? Barbie would love it. A platform built out over the lake, covered in pink fleurs.

.

 
And another…

 
A bit of dancing, inside the villa

 

 No rain for this party, they dined outside under the rose topiaries

This couple had an entire website, devoted to their affair…

Love her sassy dress, but not sure about the leather pants and full length furs

Whatever

Felicitations to all the happy couples!

Favorite READS: Our book lover Natalia recommends Mastering The Art of French Murder. And you, Natalia,  for your recommendation of the Paris daughter, which I’ve just finished and I loved.

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Yet Another Reason to Visit Bourgogne

A postcard of Château de Sully

I'm a bit obcessed with châteaux. OK, a lot. That was true even before I came to live in one. And I'm in the right neighborhood, as they are everywhere in La Bourgogne. You can hardly drive a kilometer without tripping over a turret of some sort. 

The big ones are stunningly expensive to maintain, so most of these are open to the public. There are so many that there are two "château routes" in Bourgogne. The first is La Route des Châteaux en Bourgogne Sud, in our old neighborhood around Cluny; there are 15 of these, and I've been to most of them. But now I have a new crop to see around Beaune: La Route de Ducs de Bourgogne.

So we got crackin' on the list this week. What to know about châteaux is this: they are remarkably diverse. They were built in different centuries, starting in  the 9th on up into the 19th century. There is even an authentic one being constructed as we speak, in the traditonal manner, at Guédelon (don't miss it if you're in the area). They can be large or small, defensive or just prestige palaces, rustic or refined, in the middle of massive formal gardens or in the middle of a mellow meadow. 

This week's offering was the Château de Sully. It was huge, and interesting, if a little frayed around the edges. It is owned (and lived in) by royals whose lineage goes back to the ice ages. 

We pique niqued in the shade by the moat, contemplating the enormity of the building and listening to birdsong and the lowing of the cows that were in the field next to us. The uncut lawn tickled our ankles and old forests topped the hills around us. 

This bridge is the private entrance to the family's "apartment"

Inside, the rooms pretty much had their original patina, with the usual grand vestibule, ballroom, and the fumoir, the lair where the men retired to talk about manly things. 

There is always seems to be a good story or two to be told about the château. Here, the owner is a Duchesse with a grown son and daughter, all in residence. Sadly Le Duc met an untimely death a few years ago. The son then inherited the Duc title; the daughter, being a female, got nothing, so she had to forfeit her nobility. Her only hope, our charming guide told us, was to hunt up her own Duc and marry him. But in fact, the 30-year-old daughter did them one better--this past summer she married an Italian prince, so she is now a princess! She has upped her game considerably, in the hierarchy of such things. You go girl!

The Duc who built the château was big-time  into hunting, which explains the animal motif on the entry door

 

Stone geometric shapes echo the topiaries in the small formal garden.

 

There was an overgrown potager.

 Actually they may be needing the Prince's funds (is it perhaps like the old days, when you make a good marriage with the royal income as the main criteria?). Turns out that the Château de Sully, plus the stable and the extensive series of barns all need new roofs (see photo at top). We are talking acres of roofs and gazillions of euros. And that must all be done before they start on the interior renovations, and the needs look to be considerable. Yowsa. And did I mention it takes a staff of 15 to maintain it and keep it open for tours?

So we have spent one very pleasant day, chalking another château off our list. And if you want to get a good feel for the rich history of La Bourgogne, there's hardly a better way to do it than château-hopping. Maybe I'll see you there.

IF you go: Both the southern route and the Ducs de Bourgogne route have websites. Many of the châteaux have summer festivals and activities, like the fabulous immersive one in Digoine, or the Cormatin summer theatre festival. Check the schedules, because some of the châteaux are only open in summer months.

P.S. And speaking of châteux, this week I came across some old postcards of the Château de Balleure (it's a private one), where we lived for 3 years. So, just for fun:

 

In the COMMENTS: Anne, it’s happened to us a couple of times while traveling, that we’ve happened on a fête. It’s always a memorable  bit of serendipity. But Colleen, as a music lover with a musician husband, you may want to avoid the small towns for this particular fête! Natalia, I loved your post—my husband doesn’t dance in public but he will dance with me in the kitchen after dinner (probably to put off the dishes). And thanks for the tip, I will now cut up my chip and other snack bags as well. Natalia has a new book for us, comme d’habitude, happily: Lady Tan’s Circle of Women, an intriguing historical novel.

Our new (occasional) feature is Be Kind to Your Fellow  Animals. If you, like seemingly everyone else these days, are trying to cut down on meat (better for your health, the planet, and certainly for the poor farm animals), then here are some tips from a pescatarian married to a carnivore. First of all, streeetrch your hamburger beef, which also adds much deliciousness. I throw a bunch of mushrooms on a sheet pan and roast them until they are browned around the edges. Then I chop them coarsely in the food processor, and mix them in with ground beef, at a ratio of roughly 1 part mushrooms to 3 parts beef. Freeze or use right away to make hamburgers or any ground beef dish. Not only does it stretch the meat, it adds more depth and flavor, (per my own carnivore, and friends). Another tip is to check out authentic Asian and Mexican recipes--these cultures, among others, have a tradition of making delicious meatless main dishes.

 

The French Throw Themselves a Party

"California Sun" with a French accent: "We're out there having fun, in ze warm California sun."

It's simple, really; every year France throws itself a big party, on June 21, on or near the the summer solstice. Everywhere in the country, on the same night. In towns large and small.

It's called La Fête de la Musique. And if you have one in a town in your country, you can thank the French; they started this party, in 1982, and it's spread to various places around the world. There is music on every street corner, on bistro terraces, in every Place. Rock, jazz, folk, new age, whatever your genre, you'll hear it here. There's not a lot of planning involved, because there a twist to this music festival: It's amateur night, and the musicians are all playing free of charge, on any spot they can grab. Every school band, every gray-haired, pony-tailed aging hippie reliving their garage band days, every hopeful busker, they all turn out to showcase their talent--or, cheerfully, their lack thereof. A few professionals show up, but they are outnumbered by the wannabees.

The streets  of Beaune were packed with revelers.

 Now you may think that with music on every corner, there would be a cacaphony of competing sounds and beats. You would be right. And at least in the smaller towns (even sophisticated Beaune), there is one word to describe most of the music: awful. But the enthusiam is delightful.

Folks turned out in force at The Place Carnot  to hear this group, who used costumes to distract from any failings in talent.

 

Everybody, young and old, spills out onto the streets in the evening. In the squares there will be children frolicking, a few dancers showing off their moves, and crowds clapping appreciatively, no matter how painful the missed notes. The streets are completely packed, with the masses wandering from venue to venue, some stopping to grab a table at the packed cafes. We've been to many of these affairs over the years, but never in a big city, where I'm sure it's a bit more polished and organized. I read that this year in Paris, for example, it was female musicians only in the Jardin de Luxembourg.

Every 20-something in Beaune was packed onto this terrace, to hear one of the best acts of the night, a fine sax player and a synthesizer

But fine music is not the point of this fête. It's a big happy party, free and open to all, and the small town beat is the one we want to dance to.

 

This young guy was singing songs he'd penned himself, in a sweet voice

 

In the COMMENTS: Julie, a caretaker type person is crucial, that’s surprising it’s so difficult. And good luck with the visa process. Chris, month-long trips sound pretty great, and yes it would take a lifetime to see all of beautiful France. Paula, so often, grandkids change everything! Jane, French landlords must like expats, never known any of them to have that problem (they think all Americans are rich, ha!). We changed our marriage regime as well, but I think the rules have changed. Cynthia, I’ve never heard of the rental problem you mention either—but the laws slanted toward tenants have unexpected consequences for sure. Christophe, you are right about word-of-moth, and it’s always good to ask the local notaire as well. Dan, such insightful thoughts, and yes it’s hard to get your head around: the US has 50 states with different laws, while France has only one. Francine, you can buy into the French health care system (under certain conditions), or you can buy a private policy to cover you in France. Yes, residents must file and pay taxes in the US and France, but you get credits for what you paid in France.

Favorite READS: Natalia loved The Paris Daughter, by Kristin Harmel. And my friend Rudy raves about France, An Adventure History, if you want to brush up on your history, in a unique way.

And this week, an (occasional) new feature, Be Kind to Your Fellow Animals, because, well, I love animals. Today's tip: please think about the plastic and trash you throw away. Birds and fish get heads and beaks and other body parts caught up in plastics, and in those mesh bags that avocados and onions come in. Please tie a knot or two in any bag you throw away. Worst offenders: those flexible plastic rings that hold cans of soda: please take a minute to cut through each one. Also cone shaped yogurt containers (like Youplait) are a problem; birds stick their heads in and can't back out, so make a few cuts in them (or buy another brand). Small plastic rings,too, can be torture. Merci for thinking ahead when you throw plastic out.

If you don't do these things, here's what happens:

 

Moving to France? Here's What You Need to Know

To illustrate this post on moving to France, I've chosen some of my travel photos from various regions, to entice you.

BORDEAUX  at night

In a post last month, we tried to answer the question, "Should you/could you move to France?", with lots of good help from our readers. Here's what to do next if your answer is oui. Even if you're just going for a few months, you'll find some helpful info here (this is principally for Americans, but other expats should find some good info here as well).

Alors. You've narrowed down your region. You've hopefully met a few folks in the area, and maybe even found that "angel" we talked about. You've brushed up on--or started-- your French study. You've rented somewhere to live, at least for the short term. Hopefully you are tuned in to helpful websites like The Local, The Connexion, Expatica, etc. Let's get packing!

Cruising in Colmar, in the ALSACE

 (Disclaimer: I'm not an expert on this stuff, and rules change all the time. This is meant only as an overview--you'll need to do your own homework!)

First up, you'll need a visa. 

Before you arrive you'll need a long-term visa, which will last for 6 months and which you must get in the States. When you get to France, you should start working on the process of getting a Carte de Séjour, with the préfecture in your département. Go to the website of your local préfecture for full info, and much of it can be done online. This is basically a year-long visa, which has to be renewed annually for 5 years, at which point you'll be eligible for a 10-year visa. With the 10-year visa, you will be also be eligible to work in France (note: if you want to work the first five years, there are different visas/rules. There's a good article on this subject in Complete France).

I wish I could tell you the Carte de Séjour process will be easy. But taking on the pesky French bureaucracy never is. ALWAYS make copies of everything and tuck these documents away in a file. Some you can even copy, change the date, and re-use.

Beautiful in the BEAUJOLAIS

Now, about that driver's license you'll be needing. You have a year to get one.

Eighteen US states have reciprocity--lucky you if you're a resident of one!-- meaning you just have to exchange your US driver's license for a French one and you're done. (It MUST be done in the first year!). Without reciprocity, you're going to have to hand over some cash and take a driving test, in French, which requires some serious study. (Pro Tip: note that you must turn over your US license to the French. If you want to keep both, go to the DMZ when in the States, before it expires, and tell them you've lost yours).

Américaine in France has a current article on the subject. There is also a good facebook page devoted to the subject.

A village in the JURA

 Taxes: This is a complex subject. If you stay longer than 6 months you become a French fiscal resident and you are obligated to file French taxes in addition to your US taxes. You might want to start with this site, The Good Life France, they have an article on US taxes here. Ma French Life has a good article as well.There is a French/US tax treaty which governs all this. There is a wealth tax you should know about, if it applies to you.

 There is a great facebook group my husband found called Strictly Fiscal France, which is all and only about taxes, insurance, and finances for UK and American expats. They have put together some guides on various topics. Kristin Espinasse of the French Word-A-Day blog has a great post on getting reasonably priced help with US tax filing from abroad. 

If you're a subscriber, try this article from the Wall Street Journal on the subject.

Perfectly PROVENCE

Health care: The French health care system is excellent. Our only complaint is that it can take some time to get in to see a specialist--shortages abound. But a good GP can take care of most things, and get you in to a specialist in an emergency.

You will need health insurance of course. You can purchase special international policies for this. They will not be exorbitant because French health care is astonishingly cheaper than in the US. Sadly Medicare will not cover you in France but retired military health insurance will. Start by checking with your carrier to see what they might cover.

Buying into the French system is possible but beyond our scope here. Expatica weighs in here.   And here is another helpful site.

In the COTE D'OR, Château de la Rochepot

Banking: Our reader Francine asked about French banking accounts. Ron answers: "US money laundering laws have made it more difficult for Americans as some banks think the compliance efforts are not worth having American accounts. PRO TIP: our bank, Credit Agricole Britline is a French bank with English speaking agents, designed just for anglos.

"We’ve always sent pensions to our US bank accounts. From there we buy Euros when desired via XE.com and they transfer the funds to our French account." 

 

Sailing near Grenoble, in the ALPS

 Renting a House: Leases for unfurnished residences are 3 years in duration. Annual increases are regulated, and small. Legal rights strongly favor tenants, in general. Rents here seem extremely reasonable to us (but then we are coming out of the expensive Charleston market). Expatica has a good article on the subject.

Villefranche sur Mer on the COTE D'AZUR

 Buying real estate: Although the process is different, it's pretty straight forward. There are no restrictions on buying real estate in France (Ron says: "You've got money, you can buy!"). Just get good advice along the way (see tips at the end of this post). We think real estate is generally a bargain in France, unless you are somewhere pricey and chic--Paris, the Côte d'Azur, or west coast resorts for example.

In the DORDOGNE, the village of Brantôme

Renting a car: we've always owned cars here, but you might want to rent, depending on how long you stay. The local grocery stores (the large Grand Surface ones, like Leclerc, Super U, and Carrefour) often rent cars, for far cheaper than anyone else.

Cluny, in southern BURGUNDY

Estate Planning: if you own property in France, be aware that the rules are very different. Kids automatically inherit, and you have to jump through some hoops if you prefer to customize that. Tax implications are different, too. 

Annecy, in the ALPS

Bringing your pet: We travel with our cat Vino Bambino in the cabin, when we go back  to the States for a while. Delta/Air France is the only option I know of to take a pet in the cabin from the US to Europe. But if you have a larger pet, you may have to put them in the hold. If you do, just be sure to travel in cooler weather--spring or fall are best. It isn't risk-free. But out of necessity we did ship our previous cat in the hold when we first arrived. She was a complete wimp of a cat, yet was absolutely fine with her Delta trip--well-fed and watered and totally relaxed and purring when we picked her up. 

The late Piccolo's first day in France, at the château

 There is no quarantine period in France, happily, but be sure to read the rules carefully. There may be tests required for the first trip that must be done in advance, I believe it's 21 days. After that you get a French pet passport and you get your vet to update it before every trip, on both sides of the pond. It's pretty easy, just do it 10 days before you leave. Just don't get behind in shots, and pay attention to exam timelines, or you could get in a fix.

International jetsetter  Vino Bambino

Vino's passport includes a mug shot

 This covers just the basics. My dear readers, so many of you have been through this process. What have I forgotten and what is important to know? Pitfalls to avoid? Please do check  in!

 

Are you overwhelmed yet? If so, I've got good news! There are multi-lingual expats who can guide you through every step of the process--buying a house, settling in--and I know two of them personally.  I can recommend them both highly.

If you're moving to Burgundy, our friend Marit can help (and sometimes she goes a bit further afield):

Ella Dyer is an American living in Nice. She is a part of the Adrain Leeds Group: "French Property the American Way". They can help you navigate the French system in any area of France; Ella specializes in the Côte d'Azur.

 

 

In the COMMENTS: Thanks again to Francine for her delicious post on her cookbook. Also, if you are interested in moving to France, you might go back to our previous post, Should you, Could You, Move to France?, and check out the additional comments, which have continued to come in. Dana and Sandy have had experiences close to ours, and Sandy was interviewed on her adventures in a podcast you may want to check out.

Favorite READS: Natalia checks in with another great read for us: Things I Wish I Told My Mother, by Susan Patterson (yes, the wife of James). Natalia calls it "wonderful and poignant".

 

A Franco-American Cook to the Rescue

Our loyal reader Francine Chough moved in the other direction: born and raised near Beaune, she moved to the US 40 years ago. And she has written a cookbook to help Americans de-mystify French cuisine. Francine has kindly agreed to do a guest post for us today, to tell her story. And don't miss her recipe at the end--it's something you can do with those leftover bananas that is a lot more glamorous than banana bread!

Soufflés at The Kitchen Engine 

"Your blog was introduced to me by my dearest friend, my soul sister, Eleanor who was quite the Francophile. She passed away in 2019.

Being born in France and having lived in the US for 40 plus years on the West coast, I loved to read your stories about small town life in France.

I grew up in Burgundy 20 kms from Beaune and went to Dijon University. I always loved cooking, eating and entertaining and have always been fascinated by the interest Americans had for French cooking.

I taught family French home cooking classes called “Easy French Cooking” at community colleges then “Regional French Cooking” at the Alliance Française de Portland. I tried to teach easy French home cooking for Americans who were intimidated by French cuisine.

During the pandemic, I had more time to write a cookbook called “Bricks in a Pebble Sauce”.  This cookbook tells how food is interconnected with culture, history, geography, family anecdotes. It is not just a cookbook! It tells you about French traditions, sauces, drinks, culture, appetizers, main dishes, cheeses, desserts and more.

The title “Bricks in a Pebble Sauce” is an expression my mom used all the time if we asked her what was on the menu when we got home from school for lunch : “On mange des briques à la sauce cailloux”.

As I was looking for a title, my brother who lives in Vannes, in Brittany, suggested I should use that expression. I was a little worried since the translation of mom’s expression in English is a little intriguing to say the least! So I guess intriguing it is!!"

Teaching how to make salade niçoise on AMNorthwest a morning show on ABC affiliate in Portland, Oregon

 

Teaching a class on French Mother Sauces at The Kitchen Engine in Spokane, WA

Francine, your title is intriquing and so are your recipes. Merci beaucoup for sharing with us!

 

RECIPE: Francine's Bananas Flambée

This recipe is reprinted from the Frenchly blog, where you can learn even more about Francine. She also contributed to an article on how to cut French cheese (yes there are rules!) on this Frenchly post, and she covers it in her book too.

Serves 4

1 to 2 tablespoons of butter
3 to 4 bananas, peeled, cut in half and then lengthwise
1 tablespoon of brown sugar
1 tablespoon of Grand Marnier, Cognac, rum, or other liquor with at least 40% alcohol

Needed:
Paring knife
Frying pan
Matches or lighter

Directions:
In a frying pan, melt butter on medium heat. When it is sizzling, place the cut bananas and sprinkle with sugar.
When they start to caramelize, pour the alcohol and, when warm, light a match and bring it close to the dish so it lights up. Swirl the pan around to burn off all the alcohol.
Serve as is or with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream!

Tip:
Do not use the kitchen fan when you flambé.

In the COMMENTS: the comments last time were chock full of enthusiastic words about moving to France, many from those who have done so. The expression “life-changing” comes up a couple of times (and mostly in a good way, though Cynthia and Tom give us some reality checks). 

My dear friend Belinda, who found me on my blog before she came to France for a year and ended up staying in the Château, left a nice comment and referred us to her memoir of that time, Sixty Steps in the Turret. Don’t miss it if you are thinking of a French adventure.

 

Monica has a  story too and was also lucky to find an angel who “tucked them under her wings”. Jane discusses life in “la France profonde”.

 

Please don’t miss Tom’s lengthy comment, full of tips and wisdom. I have followed Tom's blog, Life in the Lanquedoc since he moved to France with his cat in tow, and I can recommend it to you. He has generously offered to answer questions, for those considering a move to the southwest.

 

To Norma and Cindy, You will see a number of readers telling you to forget the age thing and go for it! I am 73 , Ron's a bit older, and we are not even thinking about leaving. And y’all sound healthy and fit. We have great confidence in the French health care system, but you do have to consider your language abilities and  your comfort level at being away from your family, and your favorite doctors. As Cynthia points out (in a comment which cracked me up, and Ron as well), "it’s hard to navigate through a health issue and conjugate verbs at the same time.” Been there, Cynthia!

 

Carolyn, Cynthia, and other readers have emphasized the importance of learning the language, however imperfectly. I could not agree more.

In the next post, we’ll be discussing the practicalities of moving to France—and for those of you struggling with the details of a move and/or the language, we’ve got two professionals to recommend who can help you every step of the way.

Favorite READS: Susan Crawford has written a major book about climate change that I've started reading, and she's used Charleston as an example of the struggle because it's one of the cities that will be the first to be affected by rising waters. And because poor communities around the world are likely to be left to cope on their own. It's an eye opener. Charleston: Race, Water, and The Coming Storm.  On a perkier note, Natalia of course has a good book for us: "Expect A Miracle by Danielle Steele. "Her work is always reliably good, with nice endings, but this one is different from her usual fare-- she was given an antique book with blank pages by her grandmother,and she filled it with sayings, quotes, Bible verses (whatever struck her fancy at the time)".

Should You, Could You, Move to France?

This Provençal house is aptly named for our post today

This post will be longer than usual, but we have a very specific and important agenda here: to answer a burning question from a reader’s comment last week, which may be a question quite a few of you have (especially since America seems to be sinking into polarization, ill manners, and gun violence. Sigh). I also know many of you will have good  answers to Carol's questions: you've been there. So readers, here are my thoughts and I hope some of you expats and immigrants will share yours.

Our reader Carol asks: I’m originally from the South and thinking about retiring to France in a few years with my Wyoming husband. We live in Colorado, but the house prices here have more than tripled. And with the violence here, we want to leave. Each year, we visit France, and have grown to love it and the people. We’ve passed the French A1 language exam. Not very good with French, but we’re trying to learn. Any words of encouragement? We’re scared of being left out of life there for lack of knowing much French. We can order at a restaurant fairly well but that’s about it. I’ll be 61 when we retire. We’re both engineers, so math inclined but shy and not very social. Comes with being engineers - as the hubby says - Good with numbers, not so good with people. But we love France. Any thoughts on a fulltime life in France for newbie older shy Americans? 

Oui, we have thoughts!

Carol, you are dealing with a question that so many of us face when we retire: Are we up for an adventure? Jump right in, or play it safe? Should we follow our dream?

 

The end of the rainbow, from our house in La Vineuse

Your question echoes some of the concerns we had when we up and moved full-time to France (also with minimal language skills). I love that you are thinking this through carefully and I love that you contemplating an adventure that will push you both a bit. There is no question, it’s a bold move. It will pop you right out of your comfortable box and into a new world, full of challenges, rich experiences, an education you couldn’t get any other way, and a fabulous new lifestyle.

 

So let’s break down your questions. First of all, you have a great head start: you love France, you’re motivated, and you’re obviously committed to learning French. If you continue your language learning (which will get a huge boost when you get there) and find someone in France to help you a bit, you should be fine. We did fine, even though we moved deep into the countryside, where bi-lingual French speakers are not as common as in big cities.

Let me say up front that our experience has been so incredibly wonderful, the best move we ever made, that I will be full of words of encouragement. I'm clearly biased. But I will also say that, after 20 years and meeting a gazillion expats and immigrants, I only know one (British) couple who could not adjust, and turned around and went home. 

It may help to ask yourselves these questions:  What’s the worst that can happen? Can I bail out if it doesn’t work? When we moved, we decided we would stay as long as we were having fun, that was our only commitment.

It may help ease your mind if you make your move a little bit gradually. Rent a gîte (a French vacation rental) for a month in an area you like, and pretend to be locals, not tourists. Then pick another area and rent for a month, and so on. It’s also a great way to figure out which region is right for you, if that’s an issue.

Then, when you finally make the big move (as we did—we sold our house and furniture, packed the cat, and off we went), we rented a longer-term place instead of buying right away. We ended up buying a house after a year, then spending two years on renovations, so we rented for three years total. Renting also helped us pinpoint the exact place we wanted to buy. And by the time we were ready to start the renovation, we had friends to advise and help us along.

Now let’s talk about being “newbie shy Americans”.

The French are reserved too, especially compared to Americans. So you are going to have to put yourself out there a bit, to get started, but you may find that your reserved personalities mean that you fit in nicely. The French love to be helpful, and they are especially pleased when folks make the effort to learn their language. The French in our small village were incredibly patient and supportive, we were quite touched by it all.

Your commitment to learning the language is going to serve you well, and speaking French will vastly enrich your life there. Living there is the best immersion experience there is, but keep studying. Becoming fluent is a lifelong challenge for most of us.

But how to manage until your French is up to speed? Our answer, is to find an ANGEL. That is, a kind person to take you under their wings. We’ve found that most expats who move here manage to find one or more, usually serendipitously. It might be a friendly local shopkeeper, or a bookstore owner, or a French neighbor who speaks English, or an expat neighbor. We were blessed to find several generous French friends and expats to help us. These folks can help you navigate daily life until you’re settled in, and introduce you to others. Be kind to them, they really are les anges.

The famous smiling angel of Reims

 One thing that was not on our planning list when we chose an area, but it should have been: Where and how and with whom, can we make friends? We were super lucky: we happened to pick a region where the French are especially friendly and there are expats from all over Europe. Expats, far from home, tend to develop a special bond. 

One tip to get started: once you move there—or even on one of those month-long séjours—find a French teacher who has a conversation group or a group French class. With luck you’ll find a sympathetic French person plus some expats/immigrants to befriend.

So let's talk more about meeting people. You can plan ahead for this, in a way.

There  are many beautiful rural properties that are what the French call isolée: sitting all alone in the countryside. That’s fine if that’s your thing, but it won’t help your French much, or help you find friends. We chose a house that was in the heart of a village, with neighbors passing by to chat with. We got out on the street, and we got involved. If you go to a bigger town, you may find established expat groups (there is one in Beaune, for example, a mix of French and expats). 

Expat communities vary by region. Nearly all European expats speak excellent English. In Burgundy we are close to a number of borders, and the gorgeous countryside attracts other Europeans. Our village of 40, which was essentially 2 blocks long, is a case in point. On our street there were French folks of course, and also: Italians, Dutch, Brits, Belgians, and Germans. It was a wonderful international mix which made for some great dinner parties!

Dinner parties are often casual potlucks, called an "auberge espanole" in French

 If you want to be around lots of Brits, the west and the southwest are the most populated. Google searches can help you here, as there are maps of where the expats tend to flock, and by which nationality. 

 Ron's tip for making friends: hang around French weekly markets! The locals will linger over a coffee, it's very much a social event and a way to meet neighbors.

Carol, I hope this has been helpful. In a future post, we’ll go over some of the practicalities of moving—taxes, insurance, and so on. But for now, I’ll turn your question over to our readers. What advice do you have for Carol and her husband?

 

In the Comments: our guest blogger Natalia responds to your comments: "Lynn, thank you again for giving me the honor of writing a guest post, and now(!) for the opportunity to express my heartfelt appreciation to the kind people who made such wonderful comments. Their words meant so much to me."

Favorite READS: Suzanne loves Cara Black's Aimee Leduc series becuase it’s almost as good as being in Paris. And that says a lot. Su has a book for us, Not So Wild a Dream, with Eric Sevareid writing about his experiences as a young journalist in WWII. And speaking of the expat life, cruise over to Kristi's French Word-A-Day blog to read about filing expat taxes, the easy way.

In this  new age of outrage and hate that seems to be seeping into the culture--what better book than one on old-fashioned hospitality and good manners! Everyday Hospitality is a sweet little book with big things to say. It's written by my dear friend Thea Jarvis. I keep a stack on hand for host/hostess gifts. What better way to thank friends for their warm hospitality! The Gift of Grandparenting is another lovely book by Thea.