We have a whole new city to explore, and here is one of our best serendipitous experiences so far. We were a block from home the other night after dinner, walking past the tall bell tower at the Place Monge, when it lit up like a Christmas tree. Clock faces appeared on the building, zooming quickly up to the roof. What was going on?
It turns out we had happened across one of an installation of seven amazing light shows, called Beaune’s Trail of Light, or Les Chemins de Lumières. They project what you might call "light videos" on iconic Beaune sites, and they give a visual the history of the town, building, or site. The colors and themes wash across the face of the building, leaping and dancing and flowing.
There’s no explanation of the displays on site; we pick info up from the locals or as we learn about Beaune’s rich history. The bell tower display, which lasts about 10 minutes, starts by showing the construction of the tower, bit by bit. then the inside stairway is revealed, with a ball of light bouncing down. Twirling clock faces zoom up the building, followed by the inner workings of clocks. Then, in the show’s most popular moment, a cat climbs out of a window and starts chasing a ball of light around the tower (I don’t know how they do it, but it looks amazingly real).
The clocks are meant to show the acceleration of time, we later discovered, and by googling the name of a nearby statue, I discovered the cat (below) is a reference to an early film by E. J. Marey, a Beaunoise chronophotographer who was a pioneer of modern cinema.
Now we’re trying to catch one each evening. At the St-Etienne Chapel (below), the lights pay homage to Louis XIV, the Sun king, who visited Beaune. The formal garden cycles through four seasons during the show. There is also an installation at the famous Hotel Dieu, and a couple of them are projected onto the ramparts of the city.
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The Collégiale Notre-Dame is particularly spectacular. Here it is in the daytime, followed by its noctural transformation:
The wine museum is fun, with knights prancing across its balcony.
If you visit, check the tourism website before you go. They are only on display in the summer, on certain holidays, and at Christmas, and they don't start until 10. Being French, they run a little late. They repeat with only a few minutes between shows, so you can catch several--or all--in one night. Bring your camera!
In the COMMENTS: Suzanne, good question about the tomato pie: juicy tomatoes are always a problem. I put them on a rack and salt them, then leave them for an hour. The I squeeze or press any liquid I can out of them. For my traditional tomato pie, I used to put a crust on the bottom, but even pre-baked it was soggy. Now I put it on the top. I still drain the liquid off and let it set a bit before I cut it. I didn't have the problem with Bruno's recipe. Martin: that's too funny! Be careful, too, with Rome, Georgia and Florence, South Carolina.
FAVORITE READS: Our loyal reader and favorite artist Colleen Taylor has published a children's book with friends--and you won't believe how beautiful it is! It's called The Cat, The Fiddle, and Me: A Magical Songbook Journey. It's very unique, it's arranged to a poetic song. Perfect for your kids or grandkids--or for you, it's a tale for all ages. You can buy it here and get all the info here, at her blog.
Something EXTRA for you today: if you come to Beaune, I have the inside scoop on where to stay! Our new great friend François owns a perfectly located, perfectly decorated little flat which is just right for two. It has a salon with big sunny windows, a kitchenette, one bedroom, and a small but luxurious bath--for half the price of what you would pay for a Beaune hotel. And it's so chic! Contact him directly for a good price at [email protected]. Photos below!
